School Me A Bit (Engine Builders)
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
School Me A Bit (Engine Builders)
I'm looking into rebuilding an LS1 out of my '00 SS to drop into my '74 Vette. I'm going to run this with my M21, for now, since that will be fastest. I was looking at bearing options and need help figuring out what's best.
1. What is the difference between chamfered bearings and non chamfered, and what is best?
2. If I decide to go with ARP rod bolts, will I need to get the rods resized? I think I read somewhere in the LS1 forum about this being something that needed to be done, but not to sure about it.
3. In terms of cylinder honing tools, can someone explain what the different grits are for?
4. Any tips you might have?
Thank you
.
1. What is the difference between chamfered bearings and non chamfered, and what is best?
2. If I decide to go with ARP rod bolts, will I need to get the rods resized? I think I read somewhere in the LS1 forum about this being something that needed to be done, but not to sure about it.
3. In terms of cylinder honing tools, can someone explain what the different grits are for?
4. Any tips you might have?
Thank you
.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
I'm looking into rebuilding an LS1 out of my '00 SS to drop into my '74 Vette. I'm going to run this with my M21, for now, since that will be fastest. I was looking at bearing options and need help figuring out what's best.
1. What is the difference between chamfered bearings and non chamfered, and what is best?
2. If I decide to go with ARP rod bolts, will I need to get the rods resized? I think I read somewhere in the LS1 forum about this being something that needed to be done, but not to sure about it.
3. In terms of cylinder honing tools, can someone explain what the different grits are for?
4. Any tips you might have?
Thank you.
1. What is the difference between chamfered bearings and non chamfered, and what is best?
2. If I decide to go with ARP rod bolts, will I need to get the rods resized? I think I read somewhere in the LS1 forum about this being something that needed to be done, but not to sure about it.
3. In terms of cylinder honing tools, can someone explain what the different grits are for?
4. Any tips you might have?
Thank you
.Just a couple basic answers here. There can be in depth answers and reasons but this is the simple answers.
1. mainly for cranks with a large radius, not needed or wanted on a stock crank usually.
2. Yes they need at a minimum to be checked for roundness.
3. mainly set by what type rings will be used
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I'll just add that when building a motor, everything that can be measured should be measured and corrected. For example when I was building my 427ci I started with a Eagle 4340 crank and rods ( I will never buy anything from Eagle again ). The crank was not straight and the stroker ( one shoulder is milled down ) rods big end had to be re-sized due to them being egg shaped. Sent the crank back and got a Callies and it was right on the money.The Motown block did not measure the same deck height at all four corners, this was not much of a big deal because I was going to deck it anyway to get the height I wanted.
The AFR227's had tight valve guides and were opened up 1 thou. I was aware that AFR did this on purpose but the carnage that can happen if a valve gets stuck is worth the money to get them where you want them.
All this and more was caught on brand new parts
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Job one is to find a machine shop that will work with a home rebuilder. Get references, not referrals - should be someone they did work for within the last 2-4 weeks.
Job two is to set a realistic budget - there's no single aspect that will bite you...both ways...if you don't set a budget.
Finally, design the engine before you build it - buying parts before you have a plan in place ALWAYS results in buying things twice...and that's spendy.
Good luck with your build!
Job two is to set a realistic budget - there's no single aspect that will bite you...both ways...if you don't set a budget.
Finally, design the engine before you build it - buying parts before you have a plan in place ALWAYS results in buying things twice...and that's spendy.
Good luck with your build!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
4. There's no such thing as a bad question, but IMHO if you have to ask 1,2 & 3, I do hope you're leaving such work up to a professional machine shop with a good reputation. This is no place to start getting cheap.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
, I don't really like anybody touch my cars. I like to do things myself. This is a job that I want to do. I'm mechanically inclined, but just wanted to clarify these couple of things. I took an automotive tech class at my local Community College and know how to use measuring tools, etc... I've done top end re/builds on a couple of LSX engines, but haven't done a bottom end, YET. I want to rebuild this engine because it has about 195,XXX miles on it and I don't want to drop it in like that. I did a top end rebuild on this one and it still runs really strong. The only reason I decided to keep it stock is because of smog purposes, but since mthe Cat went bad on the Camaro, and don't want to deal with smog, I just decided to go with the swap.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
If you are rebuilding an LS1 look into getting the tools for front and rear cover alignment. The covers and the oil pan all need to be aligned properly. Additionally, you should look into a ported oil pump.
As for the rod bolts, I think Katech sells some that do not require resizing if I remember correctly.
As for the rod bolts, I think Katech sells some that do not require resizing if I remember correctly.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
I've rebuilt an engine myself with a harbor freight electric drill, a few beers and the power of prayer.
I think I shouldn't have had any beer, because that sucker really burned oil.
(P.S., everything above this line in my post is a joke.)
I think I shouldn't have had any beer, because that sucker really burned oil.
(P.S., everything above this line in my post is a joke.)
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
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From: Fremont CA
You should travel over to ls1tech.com for some answers. The ls1 early motors had weak rod bolts, the ARP bolts will distort the bore between 0.00025 to 0.0005" at the parting line, exactly where you don't want it tight. Most aluminum ls blocks will only overbore 0.005" If your tearing it down, I would go with some Manley rods as they are around $400 for the set, cheap insurance for the money. Mahle has piston/ring sets for around $550, and the chamfered bearings are for aftermarket cranks with large radiuus fillets to the journals. I would invest in a new harmonic balancer with the mileage of that motor.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
You should travel over to ls1tech.com for some answers. The ls1 early motors had weak rod bolts, the ARP bolts will distort the bore between 0.00025 to 0.0005" at the parting line, exactly where you don't want it tight. Most aluminum ls blocks will only overbore 0.005" If your tearing it down, I would go with some Manley rods as they are around $400 for the set, cheap insurance for the money. Mahle has piston/ring sets for around $550, and the chamfered bearings are for aftermarket cranks with large radiuus fillets to the journals. I would invest in a new harmonic balancer with the mileage of that motor.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
When you change the bolts for bolts with a stronger clamping strength, it will, or at least every time I've checked them, change the roundness.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
That's why I asked that second question. You guys have been a lot of help. I've still been looking at parts for the rebuild.