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1968 small block standard points

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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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Default 1968 small block standard points stalls with no warning

Car runs very well until it stalls. It re-starts immidiately. Any ideas.
New points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, coil, distributor plate ground is good, primary wire to coil is good.
Thanks,

Last edited by LAWTON54; Aug 16, 2012 at 03:53 AM. Reason: correction
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Check that wire going to the coil on the inside of the distributor. The insulation on it can get rubbed off and make intermittant contact with the advance plate, causing the ignition to miss erratically.

Also, you may want to check for a good electrical ground for the distributor. Most folks don't know that the distributor mounting bolt and retaining 'fork' are the source of electrical ground for the distributor. The areas where those items touch the distributor must be free of paint, as does the bottom of the mounting flange on the distributor shaft. Surprise!!!
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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Did you set the dwell and timing after installing those parts? What is the idle speed set for? Did you adjust the carburetor idle speed and mixture screws after installing those parts? Is this an automatic or manual transmission?
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Check that wire going to the coil on the inside of the distributor. The insulation on it can get rubbed off and make intermittant contact with the advance plate, causing the ignition to miss erratically.

Also, you may want to check for a good electrical ground for the distributor. Most folks don't know that the distributor mounting bolt and retaining 'fork' are the source of electrical ground for the distributor. The areas where those items touch the distributor must be free of paint, as does the bottom of the mounting flange on the distributor shaft. Surprise!!!
I already checked the primary ground going from the points to the (-) post of the coil. I will now go back and replace it with a new one. I will also clean the are around the "retaining fork". Thanks for your replay, will let you know if it worked.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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QUOTE=MelWff;1581584116]Did you set the dwell and timing after installing those parts? What is the idle speed set for? Did you adjust the carburetor idle speed and mixture screws after installing those parts? Is this an automatic or manual transmission?[/QUOTE]

The dwell and timing are perfect. The carburetor was done by Lars and works perfectly well. The car runs like new when and if it runs. The car is an automatic. The problem seems to be that something is grounding out or disconnecting at the distributor. Now if I could only find what that is.
Thanks for your reply,
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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To "know" that the distributor wire is 'good', you really have to use an ohmmeter and check for continuity between the wire conductor and the distributor case as you wiggle that sucker around. I once had a distributor with similar problems and found that the little brass strain-relief that was crimped on that wire had worked its way down to the conductor wire...and whenever that brass piece touched metal in the distributor, the engine misfired/cut-out.

Crazy things can happen on these old cars.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
To "know" that the distributor wire is 'good', you really have to use an ohmmeter and check for continuity between the wire conductor and the distributor case as you wiggle that sucker around. I once had a distributor with similar problems and found that the little brass strain-relief that was crimped on that wire had worked its way down to the conductor wire...and whenever that brass piece touched metal in the distributor, the engine misfired/cut-out.

Crazy things can happen on these old cars.
Replaced the wire and connectors, Cleaned the distributor clamp and bolt as well as the surface around the base of the distributor. Checked the ground that is attached to the base plate and had good continuity. I am about to put it all together and try it out. The distributor was not tight and that primary lead looked worn and dried, however it tested good. I will let you know the results.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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The problem is gone for good drove it 30 miles and no problem at all.Thanks for your help.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 04:25 PM
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Glad to be of help. That's what this Forum is for...sharing past experiences and helping others learn from that experience.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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It ran well for a couple of days and now it is back to doing the same thing. Anyone with any ideas?
Thanks,
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:11 AM
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Are you convinced the problem lies in the electrical system? Have you ruled out fuel delivery as the cause?
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Are you convinced the problem lies in the electrical system? Have you ruled out fuel delivery as the cause?
Well it just dies no indication of fuel starvation and starts right up after the incident. Also the car runs great. lots of power no hesitation and so on. When it dies there is no misfire.

Last edited by LAWTON54; Aug 20, 2012 at 09:12 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Have you had any incidents of the car not cranking at all when you try to start it? If you have, then your problem could be related to a defective grounding cable...either the main ground line from battery to frame (under the car at the battery box) or the frame/engine ground line (at the right-side motor mount). You need to really test those wires, as the connection may be poor/loose or the terminal may have a problem or the wire [inside the insulation] may have rotted.

Your problem certainly is indicative of an electrical problem with the ignition system, somewhere; and most likely an intermittant issue. Wiring or something involved with the transfer of electricity would seem to be a strong possibility.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Have you had any incidents of the car not cranking at all when you try to start it? If you have, then your problem could be related to a defective grounding cable...either the main ground line from battery to frame (under the car at the battery box) or the frame/engine ground line (at the right-side motor mount). You need to really test those wires, as the connection may be poor/loose or the terminal may have a problem or the wire [inside the insulation] may have rotted.

Your problem certainly is indicative of an electrical problem with the ignition system, somewhere; and most likely an intermittant issue. Wiring or something involved with the transfer of electricity would seem to be a strong possibility.
No cranking problems at all. I agree that it is an electrical problem an intermittant at that. The question is what is the cause and I have no idea.
All the ground lines were replaced not to long ago as well as the battery cables. The car always starts right up and the alternator charges well.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks,
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Well, the fact that "all the ground lines were replaced recently" is cause for suspicion than one of them did not get mounted well enough to ground well...or a bolt didn't get tightened...or....

If the car didn't have these problems before the replacement of those grounding lines, it seems likely that your problem lies there.
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