Front wheel bearing spin
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 338
Likes: 9
From: South Bend IN
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Front wheel bearing spin
I am replacing my front wheel bearings on my '79, because I have no idea when they were last serviced. I completed the drivers side and now I am working on the passenger side and noticed the hub will spin with little force and continue spinning after I let go. The completed side spins, but as soon as I let go it stops. Did I do something wrong on the drivers side or should you be able to spin the hub 4 or 5 times with a single push?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
While rotating the wheel, tighten spindle nut to 12-15 lbs. ft. torque.
Back off adjusting nut one flat and insert cotter key pin. If slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the adjusting nut 1/2 flat or less as required to insert cotter pin.
Bearing should have zero preload and .001" to .008" end movement when properly adjusted.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
1. Hand spin wheel (Figure 3C-2 - Wheel Bearing Adjustment shows CLOCKWISE rotation)
2. Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft-lbs while turning the wheel assembly.
3. STOP SPINNING - back off the nut to "just loose" position.
4. Hand tighten the spindle nut.
5. Loosen spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut. (Not more than 1/2 flat.)
6. Cotter key, etc.
------
Before you installed the new race, was the hub clean of debris and old grease?
When you set the new race in the hub did you get a nice secure "clang" when the race bottomed out?
Did you use a GM approved wheel bearing grease?
Last edited by mapman; Aug 20, 2012 at 09:44 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 338
Likes: 9
From: South Bend IN
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Yes the hub was completely cleaned. I did not get a clang when the race set but I drove it in until it hit the lip that is sits on.
I am thinking the side that is done is correct and the other side had bad bearings.
I am thinking the side that is done is correct and the other side had bad bearings.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Once you tighten the bearing down, you need to back it off to the next spot where the cotter pin can be inserted. If you don't back the nut off "one flat", the bearing clearance will be too tight and the bearing will fail in short order.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 338
Likes: 9
From: South Bend IN
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I just finished the other side and they spin equally. I think the passenger side spun really easily due to worn bearings. I am replacing the calipers with Wilwood's during this process and when I took the passenger side caliper off one of the pistons was leaking which could have caused the bearing issue.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Also check your spindles when changing bearings. If the spindle is marred or "burned" where either bearing is, then the bearing was spinning and the spindle should be replaced, I have been told. Since the marred or "burned" part will just cause the new bearing to fail very quickly. Also if there is any rust or pitting on the spindle where the center section of the hub is, the part between the bearings, then that means one of the bearings let moisture in and if the spindle can not be polished out with Crocus cloth or other fine abrasive then the spindle also should be replaced at the same time you do your bearings.