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EVERYTHING is new. New mastercylinder, new power booster, new lines, new calipers. I now have brakes at all speeds,BUT the pedal doesn't return all the way out once depressed.
Once I depress the pedal, the brake lights go on and since the pedal doesn't return, they don't go off unless I pull the pedal back manually to contact the switch. (I have limited pedal travel)
It feels like there either is a slight catch on the booster pushrod, or the return spring just doesn't have enough ooomph left in it to pull it back.
Any ideas??? I've tried a bungee cord temporarily, but do I need to take the dash apart to replace the spring?
I think that I will need to bleed the brakes again now that I have more than 4 inches of pedal travel.
There is no spring that I know of, unless bubba has been there before you (bungee cord could qualify you to be a temp bubba). The brake pedal should just move freely...the pressure from the brake lines should be pushing the pedal back. A well bled brake system will only allow the pedal to move about 2", and should push the pedal all the way back to it's idle position. There should be an adjustment in the pushrod to adjust the position of the pedal. Also, the brake light switch is threaded and can be adjusted to compensate for pedal travel.
Hmmm...
It looks like this and is sold at Zip as a brake pedal return spring.
I can't adjust the switch enough to hit the pedal on the return and there is enough room, it just feels like the pedal doesn't pull back because there isn't enough force to overcome the new powerbooster.
As Rockn-Roll said, line pressure should push your pedal back. I would suggest bleeding the brakes again. I think you should not have so much play. To replace that spring will not be fun, so make sure it`s broken first. How was your pedal before rebuild?
So the hydraulic pressure should bring the pedal all the way back without the assistance of the spring? What am I doing wrong then?
I've bled and bled them. Everything is new but the pedal won't come all the way back, it gets a slight catch on the way back. A little extra assistance manually and all is fine, but then the first few inches of pedal travel don't engage the brakes.
I think you just need to keep bleeding the brakes. Try gravity bleeding the brakes by opening one screw at a time and letting them drip for 45 minutes to an hour. I know it takes a long time but it works very good. Also, you may want to invest in a set of these things called "speed bleeders." They also work very well.
Keep this one thing in mind while you are bleeding: THE AMOUNT OF TIME IT TAKES TO BLEED CORVETTE BRAKES AFTER INSTALLING NEW PARTS IS INSANE. YOU WILL BLEED, AND BLEED, AND BLEED, AND THEN BLEED SOME MORE.
By the way, I've always thought my pedal has too much travel. And I'm beginning to think it's because that's just the way "old" power brakes work. My ford ranger starts braking with only 1/4 inch of travel. The vette needs 1-1/2 to 2 inches.
This past weekend I drove a 750 HP Richard Petty Driving Experience stock car, and after running at 140 MPH for eight laps the pedal on THAT car took quite a bit of travel before stopping.
Maybe some of us Corvette owners have spent too much time in modern automobiles with touchier brakes. Any thoughts folks??? :confused:
When I initially bled them (forever) the pedal was not at the full at rest position. Can that be the cause of the excessive travel, not bleeding them with the pedal and pushrod all the way out?
Sorry to see you`r still having problems. I have had the best luck pressure bleeding, but not everyone wants to buy the tools:cool:. I`v read much here on gravity bleeding but I have not tried this. Regardless of the method you choose, it takes time and you must make sure air is not re-entering the system. Use some silicone sealer on the last portion of the threads on the bleeder screws. Have you`r helper pump the brake pedal slow and steady about 3-5 times then hold pedal to floor. Open the screw no more than a quarter turn for a few seconds and repeat until bubbles disapear. Make sure the m/c has plenty of fluid at all times. Follow the factory sequence ( I`v changed my mind ). If you do not have a helper, follow the pumping procedure, and hold pedal down with a brace of wood or some such, and be careful of your interior. If you still have problems, keep posting. By the way, if that pedal spring was broken, I would think that your pedal would just dangle. I`m pretty sure you have air in the lines. Good luck! :cheers: