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When I bought this car, the guy said he'd replaced the rusted frame with a used one. Found out after it was a frame from a rollover that he had straightened. Question is, how good can a twisted and straightened frame really be? Anybody done or heard of this?
I've also got copies of emails from him to the frame shop complaining that it wasn't straight the first time they fixed it either, which makes me doubt the credibility and quality of the job in the first place. Would a credible body or frame shop be able to check it properly with the body still on it?
Straightened mine out myself was in numerous wrecks.
More square and straight the day it was new.
They werent perfect out of the factory most can easily be fixed.
Hi 2Q,
I agree that a frame shop will be able to tell you how straight the frame is.
I'd think that checking the number of shims on the upper a-arms, body mounts, trailing arms, core support, and bumper brackets, (if it has bumpers), will give you some hints about the frame. Unusually large numbers of shims and washers used as spacers are often compensating for something.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Frames are routinely straightened to factory dimension after wrecks. Of course, just like everything else there are shops which possess the correct equipment and talented techs to do a fabulous job, and some which are less well equipped.
The upper arms are only a few shims difference, its the trailing arms that are raising the red flag, well, the drivers side one anyway.
The arm had been repaired (since I planned on replacing it anyway, wasn't worried). But upon looking closer and measuring it, the left arm is almost 1/2" longer than the right, and yet the wheels are fairly centered in the well. The measurement from that corner of the frame to the wheel opening is the same on both sides, as well the bumper brackets fit fairly similar on both sides. Could the trailing arm mounting holes themselves be bent in? Or ovalled? Don't suppose there's a way to fix that without pulling the body?
You did no mention what year frame your dealing with. However the FSM in the Body Section has measurements that can be used to access is the frame is tweaked. A quality frame shop can bring it back to factory specs. Providing you only have a bent frame and not rust issues combines with the bent frame. I am presently putting a 80 frame under my 73 body. I took my frame to a large frame shop to have them check it. With lasers and other measuring equipment, they verified my frame was within factory spec.
8Valve
Last edited by 8valve; Aug 30, 2012 at 04:25 PM.
Reason: addition
The car is a 72, but not sure the year of the frame. I'll have to dig through the (3 inch thick) stack of reciepts the guy gave me and see if I can find it. The frame had been straightened, cleaned, and coated. No rust anywhere on this thing, and since everything has been apart just ten years ago, it's soooo easy to take apart. Not to mention the tilt front makes working on it an absolute dream....
Complete side note question, has anyone looked into or done it with modding the motor mounts to set the engine centered and slightly lower? Looks like there's plenty of room and would be pretty easy.
Maybe, since you're talking about a mass produced frame. Perfect or not, all of them allowed for the correct factory suspension settings.
All of them?I'm willing to bet more than one was an absolute mess of added up missed specs and tolerances and required more than a tweak or two to get anywhere near driveable alignment settings...
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by 2Quickrides
...Complete side note question, has anyone looked into or done it with modding the motor mounts to set the engine centered and slightly lower? Looks like there's plenty of room and would be pretty easy.
Don't try to "fix" that. They're off center on purpose to compensate for driver's weight. In any event, lowering the engine is something best left to hardcore max-effort racing. If that dead serious, you should probably be looking into fabricating motor plates anyway. Unless a dry sump, full cage and gutted interior are also in your plans, I would rethink going to the trouble, as there are plenty of other tricks in the bag one should exhaust first.
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Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Aug 31, 2012 at 12:17 PM.