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I have a Tremic 5 speed and love it. But, running in fifth at 1700 rpm's 70 mph A/C compressor dosen't turn faster enough. I changed the blower fan to a new C4 witch blows great. Has anyone ever changed the pullies. If so what size were they and from what engine??? and did it work?? I was going to change the compressor with a newer model. But I would have the same problem. Not enough rpm's.
depending on which a/c compressor you have , you could either use a larger pully on the crank, causing it to spin faster, or change it to a cycling system. imho 1700 rpms should be enough to do the job, you may have other issues
depending on which a/c compressor you have , you could either use a larger pully on the crank, causing it to spin faster, or change it to a cycling system. imho 1700 rpms should be enough to do the job, you may have other issues
When in 5th overdrive is 0.65 When I down shift to 4th it's the stock 1to1 witch will bring the rpm's up to around 2700 rpm's then it's pumping and the temp will drop down to 65* Why have overdrive if I still have to run in 4th gear. I gotta work this out some how. What is a cycling system?? what dose "imho" mean. Everything in my system is brand new. my compressor is the stock pancake compressor.
imho 'in my honest opinion' on a normal system, your a/c works at idle 700-800 rpms, no reason for it not to work at 1700rpm's no matter what gear you are in
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Sep 8, 2012 at 01:42 AM.
imho 'in my honest opinion' on a normal system, your a/c works at idle 700-800 rpms, no reason for it not to work at 1700rpm's no matter what gear you are in
OK. I can see that. But, I don't get anything at idlle. a/c temp gose to 80*on my thermometer. New fan is blowing on all speeds I got the hot water shut off completely close when A/C is turned on, A/C belt is tight. Thats why I'm at the pulley. Next idea! Not being a smart a$$. OMHO! =]:-) I really do appreciate your feed back and your time.
have you had you system checked? possibly a plugged expansion valve or if you have one an orifice tube, or a plugged receiver drier. Without someone putting a set of gauges on your system who knows what to look for everything else is just a guess.
Is the heater core shutoff valve working? My vacuum hose to my shutoff valve isn't in great condition, so below 1500 rpms it doesn't get cold. However, my mechanic installed a manual shutoff and it stays cold even at idle with the manual cutoff. Its also really cold wih the manual cutoff.
Even at idle you should be able to achieve something around 55* or colder in max a/c. Possibly low on freon. you running 134A? If so you could add more easily enough. There are charging cans with gauges attatched that have a green arc on the pressure gauge as a guide to where the low pressure should be while running.
I have the tko600 and turn the same speeds and rpm..... And I am running a march under drive pulley system to boot..... And my A/C blows very cold... Running the stock a4 pump and r12 gas.... But do wish my fan blew harder...
I have the tko600 and turn the same speeds and rpm..... And I am running a march under drive pulley system to boot..... And my A/C blows very cold... Running the stock a4 pump and r12 gas.... But do wish my fan blew harder...
Easy fix on the a/c blower. Buy any late model C4 blower for $35.00 w/squirrel cage fan make a spacerout of 3/4" plywood. I put off this job for years I kicked myself when I finely did it. because it was so easy. Screws I made of 1-1/2" long. super glue a 1/2" pc. of tube onto the screw so you'll be able to start screwing them in with your fingers. Fan pushes 100% faster. Bring your comb. weather stripe to seal to firewall.
Is the heater core shutoff valve working? My vacuum hose to my shutoff valve isn't in great condition, so below 1500 rpms it doesn't get cold. However, my mechanic installed a manual shutoff and it stays cold even at idle with the manual cutoff. Its also really cold wih the manual cutoff.
Behind the glove box on 78's is the hot water shutoff vacuum switch connected to the dash cold/hot selector bar. when I would switch from hot/cold, the flag at the end of the cable would not even reach the off button. No adjustment can be made to this switch, so I cut a pc. of wood 1/2"x1/2" square and super glued it to the flag. Now when slide the indercator to cold, the flag comes around and depresses the hotwater shuteoff vacuum button.
have you had you system checked? possibly a plugged expansion valve or if you have one an orifice tube, or a plugged receiver drier. Without someone putting a set of gauges on your system who knows what to look for everything else is just a guess.
Everthing is brand new. A/C gages say the system is charged. I'm going to add another can of 134 and see what happens. That would be a pi$$er if that is my problem. We always think of the hard stuff first.
do you have the stock system, new, upgraded for the 134, or do you have a new aftermarket 134 system? I installed a new aftermarket, then I upgraded that with an 82 evap. got rid of the lame VIR eliminator and went with an orifice tube set up. then I upgraded that with a 'red' ford orifice tube. much colder now. got those tricks from member 'redwing' except for the ford tube, got that on 3rd gen.
got rid of the lame VIR eliminator and went with an orifice tube set up. then I upgraded that with a 'red' ford orifice tube. much colder now.
Now that's cool! (pun intended) I don't know how mine was retro fitted as it was done by PO. Which PAG oil weight did you use oldalaskaman and is yours the R6 (pancake style) compressor?
I converted mine to a nostalgic air system, with the Sanden style a/c compressor, cross flow condenser, my original was gone when got it. The oil was pre installed in the compressor .