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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 12:10 PM
  #141  
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They are about 20 cents more expensive than the Spal web site but shipping was 5 bucks cheaper through Summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sp...0012/overview/

I thought about getting the pace car front spoiler since it looks bigger but I don't know if that would improve anything.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:11 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by azguy
They are about 20 cents more expensive than the Spal web site but shipping was 5 bucks cheaper through Summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sp...0012/overview/

I thought about getting the pace car front spoiler since it looks bigger but I don't know if that would improve anything.
My 79 has the pace car spoiler and my car definitely warms up if I drive it at 65 mph for a prolonged period.I think the main problem is at highway speeds with 3:55 gears the motor is screaming at 3000+ rpm and generating quite a bit more heat than just running backroads.I have a stock radiator with flex fan and dual pusher fans and tempwise it generally stays close to 220 degrees but lower when on backroads and varying speeds from 60 to 40 etc at all outside temps. A 200r4 and dewitts are in my future and should help ease my mind as I always usually managed to keep my hotrods temps to around 180 but I was aware when I bought this car that they are famous for overheating problems so keep working on it!
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:19 PM
  #143  
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Here is the GM Spoiler extension on my 78:


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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:25 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Here is the GM Spoiler extension on my 78:


Wow, that is great except probably on speedbumps! Can one of these be had thru Ecklers etc?
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:33 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
Wow, that is great except probably on speedbumps! Can one of these be had thru Ecklers etc?
I think this is the extension. http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1979-...-cooling.html#
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:38 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
I wouldn't buy a paperclip from ecklers, Corvette Central has one too

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z50000050G~~~
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:45 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
Wow, that is great except probably on speedbumps! Can one of these be had thru Ecklers etc?
Believe it or not, I have almost never scrapped the spoiler on my 78-parking lot bumper stops are really the only threat but that is the case for most cars. The road clearance from the bottom of the spoiler to the road is 4.5 inches and the GM spoiler is split at the nose peak to allow the flexible rubber to bend.





My 2010 Z06 is much more of an issue along with my 2012 Lexus IS 350 F Sport

Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 21, 2014 at 01:55 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:52 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Believe it or not, I have almost never scrapped the spoiler on my 78-parking lot bumper stops are really the only threat but that is the case for most cars





My 2010 Z06 is much more of an issue along with my 2012 Lexus IS 350 F Sport
Schweet lookin ride. I don't think I can use this cause my spoiler is the 78 pace car type but got my wheels a spinni for sure! Thanks
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:57 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
schweet lookin ride. I don't think i can use this cause my spoiler is the 78 pace car type but got my wheels a spinni for sure! Thanks
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 01:57 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
Schweet lookin ride. I don't think I can use this cause my spoiler is the 78 pace car type but got my wheels a spinni for sure! Thanks
Even better now since June 2014 with the totally rebuilt L-82 355 with AFR 180 64 CC heads and roller cam (.525 lift) with the OEM GM 4 speed with 3.70 gears! The damn thing is really fast…..

Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 21, 2014 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 02:12 PM
  #151  
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Thanks for the links. I will give that a shot next if this doesn't work. It looks like it jus screws to the existing?
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 02:25 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by azguy
Thanks for the links. I will give that a shot next if this doesn't work. It looks like it jus screws to the existing?
You can make this (or similar anyway), homemade. I bought some 4" flashing from homedepot for a home project so I had plenty extra, I also bought 4" vinyl baseboard, cut two pieces of the flashing the same length as the baseboard (I think it's 4' long), then got some self tapping screws, again had them from another project, and screwed the three pieces onto the existing spoiler, the two pieces of flashing and one piece of baseboard. It doesn't look haft bad and works well.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 02:29 PM
  #153  
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Just a suggestion as I did not see this in the replys. Timing and mixture. Too retards - too hot. Too lean - too hot. after you go over all the common reasons don't forget to check out these two.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 02:58 PM
  #154  
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Since this thread started 2 years ago and you still have issues. I'd check that water pump. You said it was a new engine. are you sure the water pump isnt for a newer reverse flow(serpentine belt) setup?
On Older car cooling systems
Easy way to remember is that water pumps suck.Meaning hoses to the waterpump will draw the water in. Hoses from the block & manifold are for water being pushed out.

Last edited by AzMotorhead; Aug 21, 2014 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 03:14 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by bigvette1
. Too retards - too hot.
My wife is hot, are you saying she's retarded
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #156  
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I am reasonably sure the pump is correct. How would I check it on the car. The overheating is making progress. If its under 85deg and I stay under 2500 rpm. The problem starts when I am doing 80mph at 3500 rpm and even then it takes 40-50 minutes of going that speed before I start going past 240 or so on the gauge. It overheats slowly over that time which is how long it takes me to get to work. If I get off the freeway and drive surface streets it cools right back down to 200 or so in a few minutes.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 03:30 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by azguy
I am reasonably sure the pump is correct. How would I check it on the car. The overheating is making progress. If its under 85deg and I stay under 2500 rpm. The problem starts when I am doing 80mph at 3500 rpm and even then it takes 40-50 minutes of going that speed before I start going past 240 or so on the gauge. It overheats slowly over that time which is how long it takes me to get to work. If I get off the freeway and drive surface streets it cools right back down to 200 or so in a few minutes.
Get those flaps on and I'll bet that changes, your shroud at speed isn't allowing enough air through the radiator
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 03:50 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
Awesome!
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 10:26 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by AzMotorhead
I'd try pulling off the upper rad hose and see if it sucks water in or spits water out when you start the car. Reverse flow will suck water in Proper flow would push water into the radiator.
It doesn't work like this, according to Howard Stewart (the original owner of Stewart Components) turning the water pump the wrong direction will cause very little loss of water flow. The inlet and outlet are in the same place the difference is the shape of the impeller and this will not cause the pump to flow backwards.

The only way to check the flow is either pull the pump and check the model # or pull the pump and remove the rear cover and look at the shape of the impeller. Most pumps have a stamped steel impeller with straight blades and lots of room for internal bypass. The only pumps I've seen with true curved, billet impellers are the stage 4 Stewart Components water pumps. There may be more out there that I haven't seen.

Neal
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 08:21 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
It doesn't work like this, according to Howard Stewart (the original owner of Stewart Components) turning the water pump the wrong direction will cause very little loss of water flow. The inlet and outlet are in the same place the difference is the shape of the impeller and this will not cause the pump to flow backwards.

The only way to check the flow is either pull the pump and check the model # or pull the pump and remove the rear cover and look at the shape of the impeller. Most pumps have a stamped steel impeller with straight blades and lots of room for internal bypass. The only pumps I've seen with true curved, billet impellers are the stage 4 Stewart Components water pumps. There may be more out there that I haven't seen.

Neal
There are also the pumps with rigid cast impellers like the one I got from skip white
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