Sensitive horn - easy fix
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 174
From: Fort Wayne IN
Sensitive horn - easy fix
My horn in my 76 never worked from when I bought it. I recently got all the missing pieces I need and reassembled it but found that the horn button was super sensitive. I also found this was a pretty common problem and wanted to share an easy fix.
The actual horn contact is just the two pieces of metal shown here, separated by an insulator. The leg that comes off the bottom goes through the column, down the T&T spring in my case, through a few other contacts, and down to the horn relay. That leg should always be touching it's contact. When you press on the horn cap, it grounds this contact through the mounting screws and closes the relay.
Adding shims behind this piece only moves the horn cap in and out, it doesn't really change the contact.
If the plastic rivets holding this mechanism together are broken or missing, this is a good fix too. Mine were there but were not holding well. The first step is to remove the rivets and disassemble the horn contact.
Here you can see the insulator that keeps the two sections apart.
Next, go to your local hardware store and buy some 10x24x1/2 NYLON screws, washers, and nuts.
Reassemble your horn contact bring the screws in from the back. Start with one extra set of nylon washers in between the contacts. Since it is bolted together now, you can take it apart and add another set if you need it.
Fasten it back together with nylon nuts, ensuring the nuts are situated with the flats and not points out so that they don't interfere with the horn cap, and that's it.
You can see the area between the contacts is now doubled.
After putting the cap back on, it now takes a "normal" amount of pressure to blow the horn. Hitting or rattling the steering wheel would not make it blow.
The actual horn contact is just the two pieces of metal shown here, separated by an insulator. The leg that comes off the bottom goes through the column, down the T&T spring in my case, through a few other contacts, and down to the horn relay. That leg should always be touching it's contact. When you press on the horn cap, it grounds this contact through the mounting screws and closes the relay.
Adding shims behind this piece only moves the horn cap in and out, it doesn't really change the contact.
If the plastic rivets holding this mechanism together are broken or missing, this is a good fix too. Mine were there but were not holding well. The first step is to remove the rivets and disassemble the horn contact.
Here you can see the insulator that keeps the two sections apart.
Next, go to your local hardware store and buy some 10x24x1/2 NYLON screws, washers, and nuts.
Reassemble your horn contact bring the screws in from the back. Start with one extra set of nylon washers in between the contacts. Since it is bolted together now, you can take it apart and add another set if you need it.
Fasten it back together with nylon nuts, ensuring the nuts are situated with the flats and not points out so that they don't interfere with the horn cap, and that's it.
You can see the area between the contacts is now doubled.
After putting the cap back on, it now takes a "normal" amount of pressure to blow the horn. Hitting or rattling the steering wheel would not make it blow.
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 166
Likes: 50
From: Atlanta, GA
Luckily I'm able to do some work on her in my garage. I'm just not excited to get back into the steering wheel since the horn spring and contact is very fiddly. I have run into parts quality issues from major parts suppliers (won't name names).
I got a steering coupler which was a complete 180 degree reverse of my original. Fortunately, I was able to figure a fix.
I got a steering coupler which was a complete 180 degree reverse of my original. Fortunately, I was able to figure a fix.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 407
Likes: 14
From: Mulberry Florida
My horn in my 76 never worked from when I bought it. I recently got all the missing pieces I need and reassembled it but found that the horn button was super sensitive. I also found this was a pretty common problem and wanted to share an easy fix.
The actual horn contact is just the two pieces of metal shown here, separated by an insulator. The leg that comes off the bottom goes through the column, down the T&T spring in my case, through a few other contacts, and down to the horn relay. That leg should always be touching it's contact. When you press on the horn cap, it grounds this contact through the mounting screws and closes the relay.
Adding shims behind this piece only moves the horn cap in and out, it doesn't really change the contact.
If the plastic rivets holding this mechanism together are broken or missing, this is a good fix too. Mine were there but were not holding well. The first step is to remove the rivets and disassemble the horn contact.
Here you can see the insulator that keeps the two sections apart.
Next, go to your local hardware store and buy some 10x24x1/2 NYLON screws, washers, and nuts.
Reassemble your horn contact bring the screws in from the back. Start with one extra set of nylon washers in between the contacts. Since it is bolted together now, you can take it apart and add another set if you need it.
Fasten it back together with nylon nuts, ensuring the nuts are situated with the flats and not points out so that they don't interfere with the horn cap, and that's it.
You can see the area between the contacts is now doubled.
After putting the cap back on, it now takes a "normal" amount of pressure to blow the horn. Hitting or rattling the steering wheel would not make it blow.
The actual horn contact is just the two pieces of metal shown here, separated by an insulator. The leg that comes off the bottom goes through the column, down the T&T spring in my case, through a few other contacts, and down to the horn relay. That leg should always be touching it's contact. When you press on the horn cap, it grounds this contact through the mounting screws and closes the relay.
Adding shims behind this piece only moves the horn cap in and out, it doesn't really change the contact.
If the plastic rivets holding this mechanism together are broken or missing, this is a good fix too. Mine were there but were not holding well. The first step is to remove the rivets and disassemble the horn contact.
Here you can see the insulator that keeps the two sections apart.
Next, go to your local hardware store and buy some 10x24x1/2 NYLON screws, washers, and nuts.
Reassemble your horn contact bring the screws in from the back. Start with one extra set of nylon washers in between the contacts. Since it is bolted together now, you can take it apart and add another set if you need it.
Fasten it back together with nylon nuts, ensuring the nuts are situated with the flats and not points out so that they don't interfere with the horn cap, and that's it.
You can see the area between the contacts is now doubled.
After putting the cap back on, it now takes a "normal" amount of pressure to blow the horn. Hitting or rattling the steering wheel would not make it blow.
When I bought my 76 about 2.5 years ago I found the horn parts in the passenger side map pocket. I was in no hurry to fix it because there were to many other things that needed to be fixed
first. I started to do the repair you showed in your post, and it worked out nice. The only parts missing where the three long screws. Do you know the size, and length of those screws?
Thanks for your help.
Larry
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 420
Likes: 5
From: Springfield Missouri
I'll have to keep this thread on file. I got my horn working again about a month ago but now I have to hit the button just right to get it to sound. Too soft, too hard, or not on the right spot and I get nothing. Like Goldilocks it's got to be 'just right.'
Maybe doing this will solve it. Thanks.
Maybe doing this will solve it. Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 215
Likes: 6
From: Mebane, NC
More info
I did the suggested fix, first set of washer were too big, result constant horn. Next set got it back to original setting, but still very sensitive. Ended up putting thin washers under the ears where the screws are to move the horn button assembly away from the ground contact. Took a couple tries but now have to push firmly on the horn to get it to work.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Fixed!
Thank you for this detailed fix. I had replaced my retainer by the lower contact but once everything was back together I still had constant ground. Turns out my upper contact was missing that insulator/gasket and once installed it works like a charm!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
Thread resurrection once again... but, if it works, it works.
As a side note, I did some work on my non functional horn a couple weeks ago. By looking at the service manual I was able to figure out that somebody did not follow any directions and it was not assembled properly. I now have a good telescoping column and good horn.
As a side note, I did some work on my non functional horn a couple weeks ago. By looking at the service manual I was able to figure out that somebody did not follow any directions and it was not assembled properly. I now have a good telescoping column and good horn.
