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You guys can kick all you want, Im not convinced that a good idea with that much stored energy just waiting to come loose. The all thread method works pretty easy, size 12 not required.
It takes me literally seconds to install a front coil spring in a c3. Bear in mind, you do this with the spring almost completely relaxed so there is very little stored energy in it.
It takes me literally seconds to install a front coil spring in a c3. Bear in mind, you do this with the spring almost completely relaxed so there is very little stored energy in it.
I think the issue is when one is installing front springs for the first time. I was really nervous simply because of what I had read on this forum. I tried a compressor, then the all thread but ended up just wrapping a safety chain around the spring and then using the floor jack method. Quick and easy once I got it. Now I could do it in a few minutes. But that first time is can be a challenge.
This is the thread that I followed and posted to for my front coil "experience." I did mine on jack stands with a spring compressor modified as per the thread above and described in this thread.
That's the exact same type I used on my 550 lb VBP springs. I put the spring compressor inside the spring and compressed it just slightly before putting it in and lining it up with the top grove in the pocket (you can put it up in there and turn it a little until you feel the end of the spring "catch" on the end of the alignment grove, that's what I did at least). Then I put a jack under the lower a arm and started working up SLOWLY. WITH A CHAIN AROUND THE FRAME AND THROUGH THE SPRING.
That 550 spring has a LOT of resistance and may start lifting the car off the stands as you compress with the floor jack. I was installing the springs when the motor and trans were out so as I pumped the jack up the car would start to raise up off the jack stand on that side... a little scary. What I would do is pump the floor jack until the car just started to lift off the stand and then I would tighten the spring compressor to relieve the tension and set it back down. Repeat until you have the a arm and spring compressed enough to bolt up the spindle to the upper and lower ball joints. Doing it this way you don't have to fully compress the spring before putting it in the upper pocket, much safer in my opinion. If you have the engine and trans in the car you may not have the issue of the car lifting off the jack stands as I did.
The spring compressor you can maneuver out through the coils once you are done.
To install, the tighter coils go to the top and stick a short bolt temporarily into the upper guide hole and butt the end of the spring against it. After assembly unscrew the bolt. That will automatically align the bottom and leave the drain hole open.
HD springs have evenly spaced coils and can go either way.