The problems - What to do first.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
The problems - What to do first.
So I picked up this car a few weeks back off Ebay (yes Ebay). (1979 with a 350 bored out to .060 etc.)
After getting it home and going over it I have the following list of problems. I want to do as much of the work myself, but I am at best average on car mechanics. I am however very good at working with tools and am a quick learner. Here's the list:
Electrical:
-Instrument cluster lights don't work (except the brake warning light, which wont turn off).
-Dash center console lights don't work (except "GEN" light).
-Cruise doesn't work
-Cig. Lighter doesn't work
-Reverse Lights don't work (needed to pass inspection in NY)
-Power Locks don't work
-Clock not working
Mechanically:
-E Brake (I assume it will seize, hence the brake light stuck on, but am afraid to try it)
-Steering - seems loose. The car drifts in the lanes and feels unsafe at anything above 65). Seems to have a lot of play.
-Suspension (not sure, because of the steering issue. Maybe a combination of the two. It is very stiff, but this might be normal?).
-Pitman arm seems to have a bit of play in it.
-Wiper fluid doesn't pump.
-Missing hood blanket.
-Slight smell of urine (not kidding). While replacing the instrument cluster bulbs (to no avail) I discovered a nice helping of mouse sh%t inside the dash. I have cleaned it up pretty well but last I knew mice don't have restrooms, so I imaging the f%@ers pissed everywhere.
So what's my best course of action? The E brake and reverse lights are needed to pass NYS inspections. The steering is high on the list for safety, but I fear I can't diagnose the problem correctly and buy unneeded parts or poor quality parts. Same with suspension. That and the fact that I am uncertain about what parts get lubricated.
Thanks all!
After getting it home and going over it I have the following list of problems. I want to do as much of the work myself, but I am at best average on car mechanics. I am however very good at working with tools and am a quick learner. Here's the list:
Electrical:
-Instrument cluster lights don't work (except the brake warning light, which wont turn off).
-Dash center console lights don't work (except "GEN" light).
-Cruise doesn't work
-Cig. Lighter doesn't work
-Reverse Lights don't work (needed to pass inspection in NY)
-Power Locks don't work
-Clock not working
Mechanically:
-E Brake (I assume it will seize, hence the brake light stuck on, but am afraid to try it)
-Steering - seems loose. The car drifts in the lanes and feels unsafe at anything above 65). Seems to have a lot of play.
-Suspension (not sure, because of the steering issue. Maybe a combination of the two. It is very stiff, but this might be normal?).
-Pitman arm seems to have a bit of play in it.
-Wiper fluid doesn't pump.
-Missing hood blanket.
-Slight smell of urine (not kidding). While replacing the instrument cluster bulbs (to no avail) I discovered a nice helping of mouse sh%t inside the dash. I have cleaned it up pretty well but last I knew mice don't have restrooms, so I imaging the f%@ers pissed everywhere.
So what's my best course of action? The E brake and reverse lights are needed to pass NYS inspections. The steering is high on the list for safety, but I fear I can't diagnose the problem correctly and buy unneeded parts or poor quality parts. Same with suspension. That and the fact that I am uncertain about what parts get lubricated.
Thanks all!
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 65
From: Wauconda IL
OK- Here is my stab at it.. 
With the mouse infestation, my guess is that they chewed through your ground connections, the circuit board or both. That is why nothing has power to the dash/console.
The brake light can indicate either the parking brake is on (or the switch is bad in the console) or you have a braking system issue (hydraulic imbalance). The same brake light is used for both systems.
If the parking brake handle is all the way down, check the switch to make sure it's not still making a connection with the handle down-
If that's not the cause, than you may have other braking issues (or the wiring is grounding itself somewhere due to mouse damage).
Reverse light is also probably critter related (it is an automatic or 4-speed?).
Loose steering is pretty common on Vettes that haven't been well maintained.
Sounds like you need to have you steering box rebuilt and most likely the rest of the power steering system as well as the suspension components (bushings, ball joints, tie rods etc).
Welcome to the wonderful and expensive world of Vette ownership!
With the mouse infestation, my guess is that they chewed through your ground connections, the circuit board or both. That is why nothing has power to the dash/console.
The brake light can indicate either the parking brake is on (or the switch is bad in the console) or you have a braking system issue (hydraulic imbalance). The same brake light is used for both systems.
If the parking brake handle is all the way down, check the switch to make sure it's not still making a connection with the handle down-
If that's not the cause, than you may have other braking issues (or the wiring is grounding itself somewhere due to mouse damage).
Reverse light is also probably critter related (it is an automatic or 4-speed?).
Loose steering is pretty common on Vettes that haven't been well maintained.
Sounds like you need to have you steering box rebuilt and most likely the rest of the power steering system as well as the suspension components (bushings, ball joints, tie rods etc).
Welcome to the wonderful and expensive world of Vette ownership!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
So I picked up this car a few weeks back off Ebay (yes Ebay). (1979 with a 350 bored out to .060 etc.)
After getting it home and going over it I have the following list of problems. I want to do as much of the work myself, but I am at best average on car mechanics. I am however very good at working with tools and am a quick learner. Here's the list:
Electrical:
-Instrument cluster lights don't work (except the brake warning light, which wont turn off).
-Dash center console lights don't work (except "GEN" light).
-Cruise doesn't work
-Cig. Lighter doesn't work
-Reverse Lights don't work (needed to pass inspection in NY)
-Power Locks don't work
-Clock not working
Mechanically:
-E Brake (I assume it will seize, hence the brake light stuck on, but am afraid to try it)
-Steering - seems loose. The car drifts in the lanes and feels unsafe at anything above 65). Seems to have a lot of play.
-Suspension (not sure, because of the steering issue. Maybe a combination of the two. It is very stiff, but this might be normal?).
-Pitman arm seems to have a bit of play in it.
-Wiper fluid doesn't pump.
-Missing hood blanket.
-Slight smell of urine (not kidding). While replacing the instrument cluster bulbs (to no avail) I discovered a nice helping of mouse sh%t inside the dash. I have cleaned it up pretty well but last I knew mice don't have restrooms, so I imaging the f%@ers pissed everywhere.
So what's my best course of action? The E brake and reverse lights are needed to pass NYS inspections. The steering is high on the list for safety, but I fear I can't diagnose the problem correctly and buy unneeded parts or poor quality parts. Same with suspension. That and the fact that I am uncertain about what parts get lubricated.
Thanks all!
After getting it home and going over it I have the following list of problems. I want to do as much of the work myself, but I am at best average on car mechanics. I am however very good at working with tools and am a quick learner. Here's the list:
Electrical:
-Instrument cluster lights don't work (except the brake warning light, which wont turn off).
-Dash center console lights don't work (except "GEN" light).
-Cruise doesn't work
-Cig. Lighter doesn't work
-Reverse Lights don't work (needed to pass inspection in NY)
-Power Locks don't work
-Clock not working
Mechanically:
-E Brake (I assume it will seize, hence the brake light stuck on, but am afraid to try it)
-Steering - seems loose. The car drifts in the lanes and feels unsafe at anything above 65). Seems to have a lot of play.
-Suspension (not sure, because of the steering issue. Maybe a combination of the two. It is very stiff, but this might be normal?).
-Pitman arm seems to have a bit of play in it.
-Wiper fluid doesn't pump.
-Missing hood blanket.
-Slight smell of urine (not kidding). While replacing the instrument cluster bulbs (to no avail) I discovered a nice helping of mouse sh%t inside the dash. I have cleaned it up pretty well but last I knew mice don't have restrooms, so I imaging the f%@ers pissed everywhere.
So what's my best course of action? The E brake and reverse lights are needed to pass NYS inspections. The steering is high on the list for safety, but I fear I can't diagnose the problem correctly and buy unneeded parts or poor quality parts. Same with suspension. That and the fact that I am uncertain about what parts get lubricated.
Thanks all!
Otherwise just start with step 1 that will get to driving it the fastest.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 45
From: nassau co. new york
the pitman arm itself does not have play.it is tapered at one end and splined at the other. if the steering control connection to the ball stud came loose the stud may be worn causing play.at the steering box connection there is a bearing on it's vertical shaft that may be worn.good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
This is a good example of "never buy a car unseen", or at least having it eyeballed by someone you trust.
Lots of luck and patience. And I mean LOTS, because you are going to need it to sort out that mess.
Lots of luck and patience. And I mean LOTS, because you are going to need it to sort out that mess.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
the pitman arm itself does not have play.it is tapered at one end and splined at the other. if the steering control connection to the ball stud came loose the stud may be worn causing play.at the steering box connection there is a bearing on it's vertical shaft that may be worn.good luck.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
OK- Here is my stab at it..
With the mouse infestation, my guess is that they chewed through your ground connections, the circuit board or both. That is why nothing has power to the dash/console.
The brake light can indicate either the parking brake is on (or the switch is bad in the console) or you have a braking system issue (hydraulic imbalance). The same brake light is used for both systems.
If the parking brake handle is all the way down, check the switch to make sure it's not still making a connection with the handle down-
If that's not the cause, than you may have other braking issues (or the wiring is grounding itself somewhere due to mouse damage).
Reverse light is also probably critter related (it is an automatic or 4-speed?).
Loose steering is pretty common on Vettes that haven't been well maintained.
Sounds like you need to have you steering box rebuilt and most likely the rest of the power steering system as well as the suspension components (bushings, ball joints, tie rods etc).
Welcome to the wonderful and expensive world of Vette ownership!
With the mouse infestation, my guess is that they chewed through your ground connections, the circuit board or both. That is why nothing has power to the dash/console.
The brake light can indicate either the parking brake is on (or the switch is bad in the console) or you have a braking system issue (hydraulic imbalance). The same brake light is used for both systems.
If the parking brake handle is all the way down, check the switch to make sure it's not still making a connection with the handle down-
If that's not the cause, than you may have other braking issues (or the wiring is grounding itself somewhere due to mouse damage).
Reverse light is also probably critter related (it is an automatic or 4-speed?).
Loose steering is pretty common on Vettes that haven't been well maintained.
Sounds like you need to have you steering box rebuilt and most likely the rest of the power steering system as well as the suspension components (bushings, ball joints, tie rods etc).
Welcome to the wonderful and expensive world of Vette ownership!
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 45
From: nassau co. new york
it may be loose on the ball-stud requiring the ball studs replacement,available,or the play could be the natural play when the engine is off.there will be much less play with the engine running and the ps system pressurized.mine was loose and worn and i rebuilt both sides of the power steering control valve.(used to require 2 kits)
Last edited by billcarson; Oct 6, 2012 at 05:03 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 65
From: Wauconda IL
Often hacks that don't pay attention or don't care will either remove the reverse switch or just blow off re-connecting the link that connects the switch to the reverse lever.
I still think you are missing a ground on your cluster-
The Gen and Brake lights have dedicated grounds and is probably why they are still working.
The fact that nothing else lights up or works would make me suspect a general ground issue to the cluster.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Here is my approach. Safety items first. Brakes, its better to have it stop well before anything else. Disconnect the brake light switch on the proportioning valve to see if that turns off the light, if so, fill and bleed brakes and reset the valve. If not, then investigate the switch on the p-brake handle, all it does is tell you the brake handle is not all the way down.
Steering is #2, check out the rag joint where the steering shaft goes into the steering box, when I got my 1st one it was almost completely gone. Then the other steering components that wear: tie rod ends, ball joints, idler are. Then steering control valve. A good alignment will go a long way to making it handle better once the other stuff is fixed.
Brake lights and reverse lights would be next, you will need a good schematik and a test light, maybe some help learning to use them from in here.
Then the dash lights, everyone immediately starts taking about ground wires, sometimes thats the problem, sometimes not. Walk through the schematic one step at a time, Fuses, Switches, connections etc...
Steering is #2, check out the rag joint where the steering shaft goes into the steering box, when I got my 1st one it was almost completely gone. Then the other steering components that wear: tie rod ends, ball joints, idler are. Then steering control valve. A good alignment will go a long way to making it handle better once the other stuff is fixed.
Brake lights and reverse lights would be next, you will need a good schematik and a test light, maybe some help learning to use them from in here.
Then the dash lights, everyone immediately starts taking about ground wires, sometimes thats the problem, sometimes not. Walk through the schematic one step at a time, Fuses, Switches, connections etc...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
Here is my approach. Safety items first. Brakes, its better to have it stop well before anything else. Disconnect the brake light switch on the proportioning valve to see if that turns off the light, if so, fill and bleed brakes and reset the valve. If not, then investigate the switch on the p-brake handle, all it does is tell you the brake handle is not all the way down.
Steering is #2, check out the rag joint where the steering shaft goes into the steering box, when I got my 1st one it was almost completely gone. Then the other steering components that wear: tie rod ends, ball joints, idler are. Then steering control valve. A good alignment will go a long way to making it handle better once the other stuff is fixed.
Brake lights and reverse lights would be next, you will need a good schematik and a test light, maybe some help learning to use them from in here.
Then the dash lights, everyone immediately starts taking about ground wires, sometimes thats the problem, sometimes not. Walk through the schematic one step at a time, Fuses, Switches, connections etc...
Steering is #2, check out the rag joint where the steering shaft goes into the steering box, when I got my 1st one it was almost completely gone. Then the other steering components that wear: tie rod ends, ball joints, idler are. Then steering control valve. A good alignment will go a long way to making it handle better once the other stuff is fixed.
Brake lights and reverse lights would be next, you will need a good schematik and a test light, maybe some help learning to use them from in here.
Then the dash lights, everyone immediately starts taking about ground wires, sometimes thats the problem, sometimes not. Walk through the schematic one step at a time, Fuses, Switches, connections etc...
Also, do you know what fuse controls reverse lights and isn't the instrument cluster fuse the same fuse as the brake light fuse? Thanks again.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Dash lights (all of them) use the IP fuse. Replace the fuse. All of them dim up and down with the headlight switch ****. If you have no up or down, the rheostat on the headlight switch has died.
Ebrake light usually indicates a problem with the brake system if the ebrake handle is not on.
Have you ordered the assembly instruction manual (AIM)? It will help.
Get it safely drivable; pass inspection. Then you can determine what else you might need to do.
Ebrake light usually indicates a problem with the brake system if the ebrake handle is not on.
Have you ordered the assembly instruction manual (AIM)? It will help.
Get it safely drivable; pass inspection. Then you can determine what else you might need to do.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Oct 7, 2012 at 12:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
Dash lights (all of them) use the IP fuse. Replace the fuse. All of them dim up and down with the headlight switch ****. If you have no up or down, the rheostat on the headlight switch has died.
Ebrake light usually indicates a problem with the brake system if the ebrake handle is not on.
Have you ordered the assembly instruction manual (AIM)? It will help.
Get it safely drivable; pass inspection. Then you can determine what else you might need to do.
Ebrake light usually indicates a problem with the brake system if the ebrake handle is not on.
Have you ordered the assembly instruction manual (AIM)? It will help.
Get it safely drivable; pass inspection. Then you can determine what else you might need to do.
No I dont have that manual. Now for my dumb question of the day. Which fuse is the IP fuse? I thought it was the top towards the left(7.5 amp). Am i wrong?
