I got a swapmeet copy of the Chevy Power Catalog for a couple of bucks and made for some good reading this summer. Just thought I should share some highlights for the forum here. This was the sixth edition and as I already have the 7th edition for some reason this edition had more meat to it or else it hit home on methods I overlooked before.

So here goes, let’s start with block work:
Remove and reuse the original cam bearings are preferred over replacement bearings (pg. 5-16) but must be removed carefully. Kind’a shocker to read but the original are premium in quality and reusable.
Deburing the block as much as you feel important and have time for. Of course clean the block after machining removing all oil galley plugs. Then paint on the inside with high quality paint (pg. 5-16).
If a “straight crankshaft” will spin freely in new main bearings with 0.002”-0.0025” clearance, block does not need to be align bored. U can check the main bearing saddles using a machinist’s (accurate) straight edge and 0.0015” feeler gauge. U should not be able to insert the feeler gauge at any main bearing bore with the straight edge in place (pg 5-13). Pretty darn simple ain’t it folks. Not much to confuse us there.
Epoxy stainless steel screens over the drain back holes in the lifter valley and epoxy magnets neat cylinder head drain back holes. This could save your rotating assembly even if the valve train disintegrates.

Well that’s enough for now and lets listen for some feedback. But more is to follow.
cardo0

 

Thanks for the info. I have the 5th edition and now I'm going to read it again.

John

 

I believe there are different editions and they have differing info from what I understand. Good info posted cardo. Deburring should be done to help oil flow IMO. I have always been a little leery of painting inside the block although I do like and understand the reasoning.

 

Yea, it reads like the 6th edition is on par with our C3's.

I guess oil drain back is a priority. CPM says "glyptal" or rustoleum. But emphasis is on deburring to remove sharp edges that could break off or "impede the flow or oil". Other sources state that the painting seals the lifter valley from sand remaining from casting - i don't read that here in the CPM. That glyptal is tough stuff used to insulate electric motors.

thx,
cardo0

 

Pistons: '71-'82 L-82 engines have forged flat top pistons. Nice to know if u have one of those and i'm sure there are alot of those still running with low miles. Makes for an easy upgrade with just heads and cam. Piston number is 474190 @ 4.000" and 474191 for 4.001" and 474192 for 4.030". Yes they used to do a 0.001" hone and replace the pistons for and overhaul. Book says that pistons makes 9:1 c.r. with 76cc heads and 10.25:1 c.r. with 64cc heads.

cardo0

 

although its more work i prefer to polish the lifter valley with cartridge rolls. i have always been a fan of screens, i think magnets would be better if there was an easy way to clean them . nothing wrong with old school, but time and technology march on

 

Yea, i wish they were more specific on magnet size and location. And polishing could go on for quite awhile before every thing gets cleaned up.

cardo0

 

Removing and then replacing original cam bearings is rediculous. Cam bearings wear just as any other bearing does. If your removing a 30-40 year old bearing and trying to reinstall and reuse it your asking for trouble. If they are removed replace them with a quality new bearing.

 

that flies in the face of the guys who say "thats not how the factory did it" ,so its wrong school

 

Aside from the reasons noted, current bearing technology is far better than 30+ years ago. The bearing is an interference fit...so it's kinda nuts to talk about driving one out and then reusing it. The Power Manuals were "the" guidance in their time, and there's definitely still good information in them...but this isn't it.

I do block clean-up with a die grinder, and I still paint with Glyptal, although I think it's absolutely not needed. Some old habits die hard

 

Then next to pistons are some notes on Rings:

Ring gaps must be measured with each ring square in the bore. (But they don't elaborate how - i assume pushed down with a new piston.)
Min gaps; for top ring = 0.022", for second ring = 0.016", and for oil ring = 0.016". The rings must be filed if too tight to prevent ring scuffing.
CPM recommends smooth wall finish with 400/500 grit hone stones. Rings are mentioned to be lapped before sale and lengthy break-ins are eliminated. (In a picture they show their Heavy Duty ring set labeled with Moly faced 1st and 2nd rings and i assume the reason for the smooth hone.)

Hope this helps some here,
cardo

 

There's no such thing as a "one size fits all" ring gap, nor cylinder prep. this is determined by the ring type, piston, intended usage, power-adders, etc.

This information isn't applicable to current-era engine building.

 

Personal back and forth commentary has been removed.

For the record, multiple people in this thread have reported posts. No one has received warnings or infractions yet, and, as always, I am attempting to keep a technical discussion that seems to have valuable information open here in C3 Tech.

If I spend any more time cleaning it up, I'll have to close the thread and possibly go further.

Everyone, please understand that if you participate in a conflict, you will be part of the ongoing problem. If someone tries to bait you, please report it without engaging in conflict.

Arguing ideas is always acceptable.

Thanks.

 

To prep stock rods for performance:
-round all sharp edges on beam section
-grind off flash at parting line
-not necessary to polish beam
-grinding is done lengthwise (parallel)

-remove all sharp edges around the rod bolt head and the nut seats
-smooth any nicks

-shot-peen entire rod and cap including bolt & nut seats using
.012"-.015" "Allmen A" arc hieght using #230 cast steel shot

-recondition big end

-check side clearance in crank journal using feeler gauge
-to correct clearance adjust bearing by chamfering the bearing

Okay folks, hope this helps answer some of your questions when blueprinting your engine(s).
I agree some surprising techniques used but I think it shows how resourceful we can be.

cardo0

 

By the time you grind, smooth, shot peen, recondition the big end and buy new bots and nuts you can buy a new set of rods ready to use and designed to take 500+ HP cheaper unless you have the correct equipment in your garage. Things have changed a lot in the past 30 years. A lot of the info posted is outdated and no longer applies.

 

I've never understood the idea behind painting the lifter valley. I hear that it's supposed to help oil drain back down, but the valley wall distance is pretty short, and I've never witnessed anyone ever pumping the sump dry before.

My preference for leaving the valley in "bare metal" is to provide the lowest resistance thermal path between the hot draining oil and the water jacket. Most of us don't have oil coolers plumbed into our engines, and any "free" help with getting the heat out of the oil is something I'll take.

 

No way would I go to such an effort prepping a factory rod for a high-HP and/or high-RPM engine nowadays. Sold my last set of genuine L88 rods several years ago, and now have a set of 850 HP rated H-beams going in my 427 makeover.

As for a couple of other items that have come up, I'll typically spend a full day deburring a block for high-perf builds prior to taking it in for machining, but have never polished the valley; rather seal them with traditional Glyptal. I'm sold on Calico coated bearings, and would rather juggle halves for adjusting clearance.

Bottom line: it still has merit, but technology didn't exactly stop advancing the day after the Chevy Power book first went into print.

edit - the Glyptal is as much about sealing in any leftover debris that as survived cleanings. As for quicker oil return, I've struggled a good bit with loss of prime during long sweepers, so I want every advantage to keeping as much oil as possible in the sump.

 

Glyptal paint on the inside surfaces of the block is to seal-in the 'free' carbon particles that are in the cast iron material. That's why cast iron block engine oil gets 'dirty' so fast. Most of it is small and will pass through the filter; but some is larger and can cause bearing wear. Lots of cast iron items (transmission cases, engine blocks, diffy housings) are painted inside with Glyptal for that reason.

 

Prepping your own rods is something good to know whether u have stock or aftermarket rods.

 

None of those steps could realistically be done at home and would need to be done at the shop. It's missing that the rod would need to be magnafluxed and checked for twist before investing any work at all. As noted, no one would make this investment in a stock rod today with ready availability of far better products at a great price. None of this information is applicable to modern engine building.

Correcting rod side clearance adjustment is typically done with a surface plate and abrasive - all modern performance bearings have a healthy chamfer already as modern performance cranks have a pretty healthy fillet.

"Blueprinting" refers to bringing all components to standard and consistent dimensions - none of those steps "blueprint" a stock rod, they simply recondition it and hit the major risk areas.

An entry-level set of GEN I Scat rods sell for about $275...the machine work referenced would be in excess of $500, even at a cheap shop. Just resizing the big end with new ARP bolts typically costs more than what a set of new aftermarket rods cost. And in the end you have a heavy, non-stroker clearanced and far weaker rod for a pressed pin!