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I know there are alot of questions and replies to the rear window conversion process. I have already finished the removable rear window conversion on my 75. Now the window won't fit in with the original halo trim and center trim pieces installed. Are the trim pieces on a 72 not as thick as on the 75?
Thank you for your reply. The halo trim pieces and the center trim piece are too think for the window to clear. I cut out the spaces for the latches and reinstalled the halo trim pieces along with the center trim piece (the one that goes from the windshield to the back window between the t-tops). Now the removable back window wont clear the trim pieces to come out.
Are the bottom locator pins as far down in the guides as they can go?
I had the same problem when I first converted mine. At first, it took some effort to get the window as far down as possible, but it's no problem now that I've had it installed awhile.
Yes, the window rests on the plastic guide. I don't think it could go down any further.
That should be it, on my 72 they don't actually sit right down.
Loosen the two plastic guides a little so they float a bit and see if the window fits any better.
Make sure the screws holding the two tabs on the window frame are sitting flush or very slightly below flush so they are not holding it up.
You can try pushing the halo and center as far forward as possible when tightening.
The center section I think is the same through all the years, I can't say about the halo trims.
Trae1976, did you use the original Halo or did you replace them with a "proper" set for the removable window?
Yes, I had a used frame that had broken glass in it. I cleaned out the broken pieces and bought a new glass, so maybe the frame is not as tight around the glass as it should be, but the window is more than just a little bit too big. I cut the trim pieces so the window can be removed but it looks like crap now. I hate to put so much work into a project to have it come out like that. Thanks again for all the replies!
Are your plastic guides sitting directly on the fiberglass?
I installed mine with the plastic guide on the fiberglass and the metal piece on top of that. I suppose it's possible to install those opposite, which would raise the guide up by the thickness of the sheet metal.
Just grasping for ideas.
Hi m,
Any chance that the rubber gasket/weatherstrip is holding the glass toward the interior of the car which would make the 2 halo trim pieces difficult to position.
When new weatherstrip is installed the 2 top latches are VERY difficult to lock initially because the weatherstrip needs to compress some.
In this picture you can see the typical relationship between the fiberglass halo (exterior), the gasket/weatherstrip, (no glass in place), the locking mechanism, and the halo's interior trim panel.
Maybe the answer's here?
Regards,
Alan
Alan
That's kind of where I'm at, only on the bottom.
If the bottom plates are too far forward, the window may not clear the halo on the way in since it's at the apex too soon.
I changed my weatherstrip this spring and it was so tight it wouldn't let the two dogs drop fully into the plastic guides
(http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ar-window.html)
and made the clamps really hard to close/open. This would have also made it hit the halo since it was up about 1/8"
miswdavi says it's sitting all the way down and the guides are in the right way, if it could be forward (are they in a pocket?) it would affect the clearance...
That or the dogs are backwards
If the window glass was too big the frame wouldn't go together and it would be very noticable