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Changing my differential and noticed that one Strut Rod is bent. I want to replace them since I have them out but noticed that the Adjustable Strut Rod Kit is cheaper then buying the stock type Strut Rods. Are the adjustable ones any good, as strong, etc? I'm ordering parts from Eckler's Corvette.
I used the rods with the adjustable tube, but the stock style ends. Looking back, I should have used the ones with Heim rod ends. The ones I have still have the bushings at the ends. Seem to work just fine. I think they were $109 at Atlanta Corvette several years ago.
The adjustable rods make camber adjustments very easy. Turn the tube to adjust rather than trying to dial them in with the offset washers.
I have used 3 different versions of the strut rods over the life of my 78: the oem strut rods with the oem rubber bushings, the oem strut rod with poly bushings, and the last few years, competition adjustable struts rods with heim joint ends-no bushings at all. The oem strut rods with the oem rubber bushings were not very good-the rods flex under load and the rubber bushings give too much resulting in unwanted camber changes over bumps and cornering. The oem strut rods with the poly bushings were better but tended to squeak!
By far the best option for me is the competition adjustable strut rods with the heim joint ends-I love them!. They are very strong and will not flex and they have totally eliminated unwanted camber movement in the rear and they do NOT ride harsh like some manufacturers claim. The rear end finally felt planted when cornering and over bumps-no bouncing around. I would never go back!
I have used 3 different versions of the strut rods over the life of my 78: the oem strut rods with the oem rubber bushings, the oem strut rod with poly bushings, and the last few years, competition adjustable struts rods with heim joint ends-no bushings at all. The oem strut rods with the oem rubber bushings were not very good-the rods flex under load and the rubber bushings give too much resulting in unwanted camber changes over bumps and cornering. The oem strut rods with the poly bushings were better but tended to squeak!
By far the best option for me is the competition adjustable strut rods with the heim joint ends-I love them!. They are very strong and will not flex and they have totally eliminated unwanted camber movement in the rear and they do NOT ride harsh like some manufacturers claim. The rear end finally felt planted when cornering and over bumps-no bouncing around. I would never go back!
I am having these put on my 68. This is just wanted I needed to hear. Thanks for your counsel.
I installed VB&P Poly adjustable struts back in '99. No regrets. Very easy to adjust camber and I don't hear any squeaks after 13 years. They ran around $125 back then.
Heim or spherical rod ends are GREAT until one breaks on you! That being said the rod ends of today are stronger than ones offered in the 70's but, I have seen failures of even modern rod ends on competition Vettes. The urethane adjustable struts have one big problem, they BIND in movement a simple check of the path of the lower strut rod will reveal that it makes a twisting motion in its travel, the production strut rods rubber bushings allow this motion, the harder urethane ends don't. I was told by a Corvette racer that he solved his problem by not tightening up the lock nuts on the urethane rod ends on his struts but, I wouldn't want to run around with a loose suspension locating part on my Vette.
I have won autocross championships on Vettes using the early strut rods with a minimum amount of rubber bushing in them, I think all Vettes before about 1974 had the small bushing strut rods on them. While they may not be the ultimate in keeping the suspension located, they run for 100000miles without failure.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Heim-jointed adjustable struts with camber lock plates which eliminate the eccentrics are the superior setup. Buy your kit without zerk fittings from a reputable source to [hopefully] avoid crap ends. Poly isn't best suited to points which move in 3D's, such as camber struts and TA's, so I wouldn't go there.
By far the best option for me is the competition adjustable strut rods with the heim joint ends-I love them!. They are very strong and will not flex and they have totally eliminated unwanted camber movement in the rear and they do NOT ride harsh like some manufacturers claim. The rear end finally felt planted when cornering and over bumps-no bouncing around. I would never go back!
Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Heim-jointed adjustable struts with camber lock plates which eliminate the eccentrics are the superior setup. Buy your kit without zerk fittings from a reputable source to [hopefully] avoid crap ends. Poly isn't best suited to points which move in 3D's, such as camber struts and TA's, so I wouldn't go there.
I'm sold gentlemen, thanks for all your input and to the OP for posting the question.
Any chance either of you care to reccommend a particular brand or manufacturer?
jb78l-82 You are right on, the Heim joints did as much for the rear end as the Spreader Bar did for the front. The Johnny Joints look like they could work, if they made left hand threads also, with the right. I used a set of Eckler's, but there are several Mfg's I do believe, who make them right in the U. S. A. I Didn't ask Eckler's where theirs were made. Have a great day. Gene
By far the best option for me is the competition adjustable strut rods with the heim joint ends-I love them!. They are very strong and will not flex and they have totally eliminated unwanted camber movement in the rear and they do NOT ride harsh like some manufacturers claim. The rear end finally felt planted when cornering and over bumps-no bouncing around. I would never go back!
I bought mine from MidAmerica a few years ago for $169 and I don't race my 78. I check the heim joints once a year at the beginning of the driving season and they are perfect every year so far-no loosening up etc.
I bought the competition adjustable strut rods that do NOT have any grease fittings as noted by theskunkworks.
For street driving vettes, they are the way to go-not sure about racing where everything is different!
In my opinion, the OEM strut rods are not the best solution today with better products out there. For the difference in cost between a standard adjustable strut rod with poly bushings (not a great solution to the camber changing issue) and the competition strut rods with heim joints, the decision should be a no brainer, on the street.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by jb78L-82; Oct 14, 2012 at 07:40 AM.
I bought mine from MidAmerica a few years ago for $169 and I don't race my 78. I check the heim joints once a year at the beginning of the driving season and they are perfect every year so far-no loosening up etc.
I bought the competition adjustable strut rods that do NOT have any grease fittings as noted by theskunkworks.
For street driving vettes, they are the way to go-not sure about racing where everything is different!
In my opinion, the OEM strut rods are not the best solution today with better products out there. For the difference in cost between a standard adjustable strut rod with poly bushings (not a great solution to the camber changing issue) and the competition strut rods with heim joints, the decision should be a no brainer, on the street.
Hope that helps!
Do you apply grease over the ends of the heims? Seems like dirt can get on these and get under the rotating ends easily....
Do you apply grease over the ends of the heims? Seems like dirt can get on these and get under the rotating ends easily....
i have not not applied any grease but then again I don't drive my car that many miles-500-750 per year. I do check the nuts though every year for tightness!