Ok, clearly the gears need to be in line and ideally then set the cam to allow 0.0025 rearward movement and 0.0025 forward movement for a total of 0.005. But I still have the question about shimming the cam sprocket forward. Shims seem to only be 0.030 thick, gear needs to come forward 0.010 to align. So do I shim it forward and then pull the crank sprocket forward say 0.020? (Then set total thrust at 0.005-0.008 as per manufacturers spec) i.e. how do I adjust for 0.010 when the adjustments are in 0.030 increments?

 

You make sure the cam gear and crank gear are lined up perfect. Endplay is set by cam button. Normally when you put the crank gear on that is where your cam gear is going to line up. You can get an adjustable timing cover with the button attached. Or you can buy the button and file the end to get the correct endplay.

The problem is that this is supposed to be done when assembling the engine, you wrap some tape around a long screwdrive and push a cam lobe back and forth until you get about 6-8thou endplay. It can be a very time consuming procedure.

Don't have an easy answer as to what to do in your situation but what I would do is make sure the crank gear is in the right position, buy a Cloyes double roller timing set and cover. Take the intake off and one valve cover. Remove the rocker arms, pushrods and lifters from one cylinder and use the screwdriver method to set the endplay.

 

Ok, I'm still battling this problem. Here is what I did:
Found a heap of people using the stock timing cover with roller cams with no issues. So I just drilled a hole in it so I could measure cam end play with it installed. Took the chain off, mocked it up and foung it almost impossable to get a flex reading (cover is also reinforced) so figure it cant be moving much, in addition i have a bolt bracing it externally. So Then I got the 30 thou moly shim to put the cam sprocket forward. This gave me about 15-20 thou offset between gears, less 8-10 thou if the crank was thrusting forward. Set end play at 8-10 thou and tried it, no good, sounded exactly the same. So went back in, I was expecting some signs the cam sprocket was running too far forward, but there was no marks on the front side of either teeth rows, even thou I'd set the cam sprocket up to 20 thou forward. Anyway, got some diff shims and set the sprockets perfectly aligned (when both cam and crank thrust rearward) set 10 thou end play, so if both thrust forward they should be close to aligned (within a few thou) Installed the bracing bolt on the outside and..... No difference! After playing with the alignment either way it has not changed a thing.
One trait the engine has is that the noise stops if the engine is under load (either accelerating or climbing a hill etc.) which has me confused. What moves when under power compared to cruising. The noise is even a bit worse when slowing down on the gears. The oil pump is loaded whenever it's turning, lifters do the same whenever, isn't the cam always being driven? So any thoughts on why the change (and sometimes absence) of the noise??
Also, not sure if this is related but the brass dist. gear was slightly worn (maybe 5-8 thou?) was going to change back to a cast gear as my cam is a comp '-8' item with a cast core.
Any thoughts on how to tackle my horrible noise issue?

 

Any chance you could make a video of the noise?

 

try doubling up on the dist gasket. maybe it will give a clue- better/worse?

 

zwede - I'll try and get a video with good sound tonight.

 

I think you need to put the correct dist gear on. (If i am not mistaken so please check) ,, you should have a melonized gear or even a composite gear not a brass gear with a roller cam ,, but CHECK with google and others here because you will get weird looks or comments when asking which gear material is correct for your distributor

 

Video as requested:

 

Lower end imop.

 

if the cam dist drive gear was pressed on, it could be on too far, or not far enough.
The rear journal pressed on? not on far enough, it could be rubbing on the block plug
that is why i say to raise the dist a bit to see if anything changes. an extra gasket.

 

not at all like the regular ticking sound i had from a loose rocker arm.

 

Weird noise. Almost sounds like ALL the lifters are loose?

 

Have you tried running with out the belts for a moment to eliminate water pump and alternator?

 

I had almost the exact same thing
Baffled me for a LONG time checked all the same things you did fresh build too. Even when it wasnt stroked it did it.

Turned out the rocker arms would grow just enough as they warmed up to just touch the valve cover (wall on intake side). Couldnt even see the marks til all the oil was off and a flourescent was on it. Drove me friggin crazy!!! Spent some time with a flap wheel, polished them back smooth and voila quiet valvtrain.

Pull the valve covers off and run it see what happens.

Lay some cardboard down near the headers to avoid the smoke show lol

I would almost bet money on it as the sound changes with rpm and varies..like mine did

 

Good idea

 

Probably not the case but I have a similar video i made for the guys on the 442 forums with identical sound from my 455 in my W30 when I built that motor with a retro roller setup. Turned out the pushrods where too short causing a slap at higher RPM. It was explained to me when I took it to a machine shop that they were not so short as to allow anything to come undone but they were short enough to cause a slap condition at 2k RPM and above and ONLY while rev or idle and sometimes decel. I could not replicate the sound in mine while under load and only partially when decelerating. Probably isn't the case but I would do like others say, pull the covers and start there. For the life of me I resisted when others told me it was a rocker or rod problem because I thought sicne I didn't have any sound at idle or above it wasn't the issue.

 

i have a cut open steel valve cover that i use for diagnosis. anytime i hear a noise, i adjust it running.
i thought everybody did this, but it seems not.
seeing it run is really

 

Thanks for all the replies.
The noise is not at the rockers or valve covers, it's down at the timing cover. I'll run it without the belt on just to confirm its not the water pump bearing. Planning on changing the timing set and trying a brass thrust washer and nylon button rather than the bearings. Just need to wait for parts to arrive.
I'll play with the dist too, but marks on the brass gear are in the right spot. Again the noise is not at the rear of the block, but I'll keep working through everything.
Thanks and Keep the ideas coming!!

 

Sure be curious to find out. Sounds like valvetrain sounds like youve got it isolated to one part of the motor though. Sometimes stuff echoes and moves around (soundwise) really throws one off. Keep us posted

 

Pardon my dislike for modern parts/design, BUT from the sound of that, I suspect you have a bunch of China Import toggle type roller lifters,

and I would never use ANY toggle type roller lifters.....

mucho better to be like the L98 dawg bone locater and spider plate hold down setup.......