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Don't buy the pre-mix stuff. It's a waste of money. Buy the 100% and add your own water at a 50/50 mix. 2 gallons of the 100% is what you need. Unless you drain the block and remove all the hoses, about 2 gallons is all you will be able to get in the radiator.
It's hard to get all the old stuff out of the block by just opening drain tap on the radiator. You leave a lot of old crud in the system thay way. If you can get to the block drain taps, that is the best way, but can be a bit challenging. Another option is one of those flush kits that allow you to hook up a garden hose and the run the motor to flush all the old out. Anyway you go, it is a project.
Did you mean to imply that you only have water in the system now? Not good, unless you added some rust inhibitors, and you don't get full cooling effect with just water.
Taking the water out and putting the antifreeze in for winter storage.
Any tips before I start?
I always use Prestones H.D. Cooling System Cleaner then flush using their backflush kit . I open the block drains while flushing too. I put in just the amount of antifreeze that suffices for the lowest expected outdoor temp. for my locale during the winter ..if youre going to drive with it in for summer months too. In the summer ill put in a bottle of water wetter and reduce the antifreeze mix .
The only other suggestion that I would provide is:
Once you fill the system with 50/50 mix of glycol antifreeze and distilled water, just leave it that way for 2-3 years. That 50/50 mix is a better dissipator of heat than just water and it also prevents corrosion [rust] inside the block. It's just better for the engine than water only.
The only other suggestion that I would provide is:
Once you fill the system with 50/50 mix of glycol antifreeze and distilled water, just leave it that way for 2-3 years. That 50/50 mix is a better dissipator of heat than just water and it also prevents corrosion [rust] inside the block. It's just better for the engine than water only.
No...the best heat dissipator is water alone., without antifreeze. Studies confirm this and can be googled -- further, Indy Cars run straight water . As for rust protection and lubricating of the water pump seals, a bottle of Redlines Water Wetter has these protective properties as well as offering a superior surfactant in reducing cooling system temps . The reason to use some antifreeze is :
1. Prevent the block from cracking or from freeze plug failure, in cold weather when the car is not being used.
2. To prevent possible freezeup of stagnant water in the heating coil, when the a/c is used in the summertime ......as the heating coil is downstream of the a/c evaporator and could see discharge air of 32 f. or below .
Big difference between flushing/cleaning and draining/refill.
If your system is clean, then a drain/refill is good enough, but I would do it every 2 years, no matter what they recommend. Pretty cheap.
In all cases, using the block drains to completely drain the system is best.
The 50/50 mix uses deionized water, that is a step better than distilled. Use at least distilled. You always need some type of rust inhibitor, whether antifreeze or other.
Over 80% of engine failures stem from cooling system neglect.
Indy cars and other race cars run only water because they don't need antifreeze and because no one wants glycol (or other substance) on the race track after a wreck.
You are correct that the specific heat of a 50/50 mix of water and glycol is less than plain water; it's about 85-90% of water's capacity.
If you have no need to protect your engine from freezing conditions, just put something for corrosion prevention in the distilled water and leave it that way. If you do experience freezing conditions, it's a total waste of time to change coolants from water to antifreeze every year....unless you have a cooling system that is inadequate for your engine.
Indy cars and other race cars run only water because they don't need antifreeze and because no one wants glycol (or other substance) on the race track after a wreck.
You are correct that the specific heat of a 50/50 mix of water and glycol is less than plain water; it's about 85-90% of water's capacity.
If you have no need to protect your engine from freezing conditions, just put something for corrosion prevention in the distilled water and leave it that way. If you do experience freezing conditions, it's a total waste of time to change coolants from water to antifreeze every year....unless you have a cooling system that is inadequate for your engine.
You need 'some' protection against freezeup of the heating coil IF the car has a/c , so straight water is not a good idea if you have a/c or if you need some winter freezeup protection. If you dont have a/c and if you live in the sunbelt where it doesnt get below 28 f. at night in the winter...then id go straight distilled water with Water Wetter for lubricant and rust inhibitor.
Don't buy the pre-mix stuff. It's a waste of money. Buy the 100% and add your own water at a 50/50 mix. 2 gallons of the 100% is what you need. Unless you drain the block and remove all the hoses, about 2 gallons is all you will be able to get in the radiator.
Why not use the pre-mix stuff. I thought I read somewhere on this forum that the pre-mix is already 50/50 and mixed with distilled or similar water? Cost difference aside...is there something wrong with the pre-mix?
No...the best heat dissipator is water alone., without antifreeze. Studies confirm this and can be googled -- further, Indy Cars run straight water . As for rust protection and lubricating of the water pump seals, a bottle of Redlines Water Wetter has these protective properties as well as offering a superior surfactant in reducing cooling system temps . The reason to use some antifreeze is :
1. Prevent the block from cracking or from freeze plug failure, in cold weather when the car is not being used.
2. To prevent possible freezeup of stagnant water in the heating coil, when the a/c is used in the summertime ......as the heating coil is downstream of the a/c evaporator and could see discharge air of 32 f. or below .
Tell that to guys running ally heads, radiators and consider the risk of electrolytic action - 50/50 high quality anti-freeze and de-ionised/distilled water is still the safest option even in warmer climates.
Why not use the pre-mix stuff. I thought I read somewhere on this forum that the pre-mix is already 50/50 and mixed with distilled or similar water? Cost difference aside...is there something wrong with the pre-mix?
Nope, BUT unless the block is completly drained, you'll need 100% AF to mix with the approximate 8 quarts of regular water sitting in the block to give you the 50/50 mix. I don't like to "mess" with the engine block bolts to get the block completly dry so after draining and flushing the system with a hose, I can just about get 2 gallons of 100% AF in the radiator to fill the system which will then give me the 50/50 mix. If I filled the rad with the pre-mix, I'd probably then be 25% AF/ 75% water which would help me in zero degree weather.
Nope, BUT unless the block is completly drained, you'll need 100% AF to mix with the approximate 8 quarts of regular water sitting in the block to give you the 50/50 mix. I don't like to "mess" with the engine block bolts to get the block completly dry so after draining and flushing the system with a hose, I can just about get 2 gallons of 100% AF in the radiator to fill the system which will then give me the 50/50 mix. If I filled the rad with the pre-mix, I'd probably then be 25% AF/ 75% water which would help me in zero degree weather.
I use the 50/50 on a new motor that I just built or to top off the level in my cars. I use to put a little AF in the radiator then add distilled water just guessing at how much of each to add. Using the 50/50 is a no brainer for me. In So. Cal. we don't worry about freezing...