Need performance strut / spring advice.
I'm looking for reccommendations on rear struts for my '75.
I've read many posts/threads and am sold on adjustable struts with Heim Joints. Looking through VBPs catalog though, I don't see any without zerk fittings which I have been advised I don't want. I'm also unsure as to whether to go with their 'Smart Struts' set-up or not. Any benefit?
My plan for the car is to be a weekend driver with autocross (perhaps open track) capabilities.
Suspension is currently mainly stock with front/rear sway bars, Bilstein Sports, and braided steel brake lines at 4 corners. I am currently running on 15" rallys but will be uprading to 17"s and sticky rubber before hanging it all out.
Installing a front spreader bar to stiffen things up.
Also on the list is a rear composite spring. Which brings me to another question, . . . . is it worth the trouble to go with a dual-mount set-up versus the traditional single/center mount?
Thank you to all for your input.
Last edited by joerob727; Oct 24, 2012 at 01:16 PM.
I run VBP racing rod ends and im very pleased with those.
I think they are far more solid than the big rubber bushing ones.
When it comes to noise i cant hear any difference from the racing rod ends and the old rubber bushing ones.
I belive that VBP only have the Heimjoints with zerk fittings and i dont se any problem with that.
However on may want to add a couple of seals to the Heimjoints to prevent dust and water to get in to those.

The only odd thing about the Racing Rod End kit is that the "center member" that fits under the diferential has got to large holes drilled in it.
I havent seen anything saying that one should install larger diameter bolts for this member..
Theoreticly there is a chance that if not correcting this the member may be able move slightly from side to side..
I solved this by milling small/thin bushings that fits in the holes and using the original bolts.
Just be aware of this.

When it comes to the Dualmount rearspring i would say YES!
I earlier had a VBP 360lb single blade together with the Bilstein Sports. I replaced it with the VBP dualmount kit and it defenetly made a difference.
I still run with the very same Bilstein Sports and it works very well (Shocks as you already have).
Good thing with the Dualmount is that its adjustable in rideheight and also have the possability to adjust the stiffness of the spring in 4 stages.
I also run a transverse carbon leafspring in the front and after some testing i found that second from stiffest setting both front and rear suit my car well.
Wheels and tyres..
Yes one definetly need something else when going a bit faster and harder..
I decided to go for 9x16" wheels since i like to have some rubber on my old car.
The tyres of my choise are Toyo Proxes R-888 road leagal racing compound 255-50-16 on all four.
They are easy to get and are quite cheap compared to the 17" or 18" of the same with.
Then its up to your personal taste.

//Ricky.
Last edited by RickyBerg; Oct 22, 2012 at 01:08 AM.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Oct 22, 2012 at 07:19 AM.
Car is mainly an Autocrosser, but, will drive it on the street taking off the Hoosiers.
I also got the adjustable strus from them and no zerks.
Thanks for all the good info.
I took a look through your photo album and I must say, I am extremely jealous of all the fun your obviously having with your Vette. Your car looks great out there on the track.
That's exactly what I'd like to do with mine. I don't expect or need to be at the front of the field (sure, I say that now), I'd just like to be moderately competitive and have fun.
What brakes are you running and how do they hold up on extended track runs. I have heard and seen first hand that stock calipers are adequate for autocross, but on extended track runs tend to heat up and go soft.
Thanks again for the info.
Joe
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

Its fun that you shows interest in inspired driving, i think more Vette owners should get there cars to at track to experience what their 40 year old cars really are able to perform.
I bet some people will get quite surprised..

Yes, brakes..
I still run the original brakes with a few modifications.
1. Removed dustshields both front and rear.
2. Steelbraided brakelines
3. Directed air cooling at the front
4. A good set of brakepads
There are a good selection of better stuff out there like lightweight calipers with larger piston areas that applies more clamping power and hydroboost units and so on.
I have personally never tried those aftermarket brakes but i absolutely believe the will do a great job.
But i think a good and wellmaintained set of stock brakes is a good and cheap start for everybody to get on the track without spending to much money.
What i would like to add to my system for the next year is an adjustable proptionvalve so i can transfer a bit more force to the rear brakes.
Here is what the front brakes looks like right now.

//Ricky
Great pics too! I had thought of putting in some kind of ducting to direct some air to the front rotors as well but didn't know how effective that might be. It obviously works in your case since your brakes are holding up on the track.
Any suggestions on brake pads? I am already running the braided lines and am considering Hydro-boost brakes for a more consistant pedal.
However that was on a relative short track where the topspeed on the longest straight was only about 110 mile/h
I belive they yet have to prove themself when i get on a bigger track with a long straigt and one reaches 130 or so.
Im using the Porterfield R4-S wich are described as a "performance street pad" wich works fine for me (but i have only tested those and the originals) but there are many other manufacturers out there as Hawk etc.
One have to find some compound that fits the way the car get driven, some people on the track dont drive very fast and a set of stock pads will be ok and some people drive fast as hell and the have to choose something that fits them.
Remember that all Sport or Racing pads wear down your rotors faster then the stock ones do.
I have bought myself a Hydroboost but i havnt mounted it yet. It will as i understand it add pressere to your master cylinder and allow you to brake harder with less effort (pedal pressure).
However, i havnt found the effort breaking a big problem after i swapped for the Porterfield pads.
I would appreciate if someone that has tested a hydroboost on the track could give there input in the matter.
My brakes have been very satisfactory and i felt no need for hydroboost.
no cooling ducts but dust shields removed and Minilite wheels. Hawk HP+ front, HPS rear, braided lines, ATE Blue brake fluid
here the report :http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ay-report.html
Last edited by elle88; Oct 25, 2012 at 12:23 PM.
My brakes have been very satisfactory and i felt no need for hydroboost.
no cooling ducts but dust shields removed and Minilite wheels. Hawk HP+ front, HPS rear, braided lines, ATE Blue brake fluid
here the report :http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ay-report.html
Thanks again Ricky.
And Aldo, . . . just browsed your track day thread. Lots of good info there as well, I enjoyed it very much. Thanks to you as well for posting.
My next question is, . . . Where the heck are all the track guys here in the states!?!?! Jeeze, you guys across the pond seem to be having all the fun!
I joined the SCCA here locally to find venues to run the '75. Granted, I'm not quite ready, but then again, that's why I am asking all the questions!
Cheers.
And Aldo, . . . just browsed your track day thread. Lots of good info there as well, I enjoyed it very much. Thanks to you as well for posting.
My next question is, . . . Where the heck are all the track guys here in the states!?!?! Jeeze, you guys across the pond seem to be having all the fun!
I joined the SCCA here locally to find venues to run the '75. Granted, I'm not quite ready, but then again, that's why I am asking all the questions!
Cheers.
Drag strip racing is not in our european dna , so if we decide to race an american car it's road course, hillclimb or such














