View Poll Results: What should I do since I'm this far?
Pull the engine, minor rebuild, because it won't hurt only help
9
36.00%
Pull the engine, reseal it, paint it and put it back in
3
12.00%
leave it in.. do it when it really needs it
13
52.00%
Voters: 25. You may not vote on this poll
Pull engine now or wait?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 4
From: Wichita Kansas
Pull engine now or wait?
OK here is my dilemma, the 68 (327 350HP) currently the transmission, bell housing and clutch out for replacement. Trans was in great shape but put new bearings, bushings and brass in just because the car has 76,000 and thought was good idea. Now what about the engine, since I'm this far should I
1) Pull it to put in new gaskets and rear main seal along with rings and bearings and freshen everything up. (compression is good).
2) Pull it and new gaskets, rear main seal and valve stems... and back in.
3) Leave it in.
Problem is with my other projects I really can't afford to do all the machine work for a complete rebuild, at best just rings bearings gaskets and maybe valve job. Of course we all know they always take more than we plan.
John
1) Pull it to put in new gaskets and rear main seal along with rings and bearings and freshen everything up. (compression is good).
2) Pull it and new gaskets, rear main seal and valve stems... and back in.
3) Leave it in.
Problem is with my other projects I really can't afford to do all the machine work for a complete rebuild, at best just rings bearings gaskets and maybe valve job. Of course we all know they always take more than we plan.
John
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
To me, pulling the motor while the transmission is out is a huge side stepping "while I am at it". They are not really related and that motor is going to eat up a whole lot of time.
I would go ahead and replace your u-joints while you are there, but not rebuild the motor. You are only talking about 6 bolts holding the transmission to the motor right?
I would wait till there is a better reason and it really needs it. You arent losing anything just because the trans is out. Well, 6 bolts or so...
I would go ahead and replace your u-joints while you are there, but not rebuild the motor. You are only talking about 6 bolts holding the transmission to the motor right?
I would wait till there is a better reason and it really needs it. You arent losing anything just because the trans is out. Well, 6 bolts or so...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 4
From: Wichita Kansas
That is so true!
Car sat from 1981 till August of last year. To date I have only put about 25 miles on it since getting it running so really not sure of leaking condition other than the the underneath side of the chassis and oil pan shows signs of "standard" leaks in the past. I know valve seals will need replaced soon, although at this time not seeing the "smoke at start-up".
I just go back and forth on this... I feel like I'm running for election!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
No brainer for me, if it's out at least take the heads off and look at the lifters and cylinder walls - that will get you started. Mine, on my '69 eom 350/300 about 4 lifters were set to really go at 90K miles. Question is, do you want to pull the engine again to do some work
. I'd fork over the money now to at least get it "mildly refreshed" before I'd put it back. I don't agree with the "if it ain't broken ... " comments - but that's me
.
. I'd fork over the money now to at least get it "mildly refreshed" before I'd put it back. I don't agree with the "if it ain't broken ... " comments - but that's me.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 121
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
25 miles in last 30+ years. Good compression, I would pull it, pull heads and pan. Replace timing gears, cam, lifters, valve seals, gaskets, rear main seal, repaint, clean at a minimum and button it up if the cylinders look good. Your talking a couple days work and $400.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
I voted for "Pull the engine, reseal it, paint it and put it back in"
With the trans out, it will pull straight up in an hour or two...
Gaskets & paint...afternoon job....and she'll be all sealed up and looking like new! And no drips in the garage!
And yer not talking about much money either....$150 ???
With the trans out, it will pull straight up in an hour or two...
Gaskets & paint...afternoon job....and she'll be all sealed up and looking like new! And no drips in the garage!
And yer not talking about much money either....$150 ???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
I voted for "Pull the engine, reseal it, paint it and put it back in"
With the trans out, it will pull straight up in an hour or two...
Gaskets & paint...afternoon job....and she'll be all sealed up and looking like new! And no drips in the garage!
And yer not talking about much money either....$150 ???
With the trans out, it will pull straight up in an hour or two...
Gaskets & paint...afternoon job....and she'll be all sealed up and looking like new! And no drips in the garage!
And yer not talking about much money either....$150 ???
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
okay, you made me laugh..... while my gaskets don't leak on my Corvette, the *&^*%%*!!! oil pan drain plug does - I think with older Corvettes you have to take a more relaxed view of oil spots and simply say (like the VW folks, and Harley folks) it's marking its territory.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 4
From: Wichita Kansas
That is true as well..
and as a fellow Buick guy we all need reasons to "add on projects". I would actually have to put my 455 in the Skylark to free up my stand!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Some people think I speak in the hypothetical, au contraire says I.... don't ask me why I am building a twin-turbo, efi, girdled, custom piston, custom rod 455 monster. I still haven't even purchased its home....
and good point about how to get them to stop leaking - but in my experience, they still leak when they fling a rod or two out the side
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
After all of that time sitting since being run, I'd pull it and do the above, plus inspect at least the front main and #1 & #2 rod bearings. And, if you have access to a valve spring tester, I'd check them too. Do bear in mind, budget constraints aside, that an issue which ought best be addressed before you put it back together may present itself. If so, I wouldn't turn a blind eye to anything important, even if it means more down-time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
FWIW, another long time Buick guy here. Happen to have "engineered" the first ever Moldex billet-cranked 500+ CID BBB long before credit was being given to others, and still have the original prototype, complete with BBC journals...
Sorry about the sidebar. Just don't meet too many Buick guys.
