[LS Swap] Didn't Start :(
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Race Director
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From: Fisher, IL
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
Nevermind. Back to the solenoid testing.
I still have the wire that went to the distributor in that area and it's causing things to read funny i think.
also... hooked that wire up to the small post on accident and it started smoking when in Run
I guess it's all part of the learning process.
I still have the wire that went to the distributor in that area and it's causing things to read funny i think.
also... hooked that wire up to the small post on accident and it started smoking when in Run
I guess it's all part of the learning process.
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Race Director
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From: Fisher, IL
Okay. Purple wire is NOT getting 12v. I have a feeling it has something to do with the clutch pedal switch. looking into that.
The other distributor wire is getting 12v in RUN/CRANK from what looks like the temperature gauge.
starter-->dizzy-->firewall plug-->temp gauge(which has pink supplying it power)
Should have just eliminated the wires I didn't need back when I started..ugh.
EDIT: That doesn't make any sense because my temp gauge isn't even plugged in. Where is that wire getting 12v from? Not that it's the problem for starting but I'd like to eliminate random hot wires that are just out there...
The other distributor wire is getting 12v in RUN/CRANK from what looks like the temperature gauge.
starter-->dizzy-->firewall plug-->temp gauge(which has pink supplying it power)
Should have just eliminated the wires I didn't need back when I started..ugh.
EDIT: That doesn't make any sense because my temp gauge isn't even plugged in. Where is that wire getting 12v from? Not that it's the problem for starting but I'd like to eliminate random hot wires that are just out there...
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Oct 28, 2012 at 12:08 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
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From: Mobile Alabama
Here is a guy who sends out wiring diagrams -if you don't have one
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...or-anyone.html
Did the car start OK before the swap? If so, look first at things you touched. Try to work backwards from any changes you have made. I wouldn't tear anything else apart until you are sure your changes are double checked -simple stuff first. Then switches and connection points are usually the place to start, then wiring. There are many places -fusible links, and even the bulkhead connection at the firewall. With a diagram you can follow the path until you find a problem.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...or-anyone.html
Did the car start OK before the swap? If so, look first at things you touched. Try to work backwards from any changes you have made. I wouldn't tear anything else apart until you are sure your changes are double checked -simple stuff first. Then switches and connection points are usually the place to start, then wiring. There are many places -fusible links, and even the bulkhead connection at the firewall. With a diagram you can follow the path until you find a problem.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Fisher, IL
Is anyone reading all this and following? lol. That's okay, I'm entertaining myself at least.
and learning some crazy stuff.
UPDATE:
clutch pedal isn't getting pushed all the way to allow purple any power at starter. I'll have to take the shaft back out, cut, and re-weld. I'd like to keep that switch operational, even if it means more work now. I'm worried the truck clutch I got isn't right. If I cut and shorten the shaft to allow the clutch to go in all the way the mechanism isn't going to have the full throw of the pedal...
As far as the random hot wire it looks like BUBBA has been busy. wire is no color...just a cloth braided wire that's been burnt to hell. Goes into the plug area where there isn't even supposed to be a wire in that slot. Haven't figure out what wire on the other side corresponds so i can continue to trace where it's getting 12v from and eliminate it.
and learning some crazy stuff.
UPDATE:
clutch pedal isn't getting pushed all the way to allow purple any power at starter. I'll have to take the shaft back out, cut, and re-weld. I'd like to keep that switch operational, even if it means more work now. I'm worried the truck clutch I got isn't right. If I cut and shorten the shaft to allow the clutch to go in all the way the mechanism isn't going to have the full throw of the pedal...
As far as the random hot wire it looks like BUBBA has been busy. wire is no color...just a cloth braided wire that's been burnt to hell. Goes into the plug area where there isn't even supposed to be a wire in that slot. Haven't figure out what wire on the other side corresponds so i can continue to trace where it's getting 12v from and eliminate it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
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From: Hinckley OH
You can always jump 12v to the solenoid to see if it will turn over. Check for voltage at the purple wire S terminal with key in start position - 12v but no start = bad ground or starter solenoid and/or starter. No 12v = switches or wiring or fuse or connections in the start circuit.
Thread Starter
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From: Fisher, IL
Man is my wiring a mess lol. Anyway. I think I'm on the right track BUT it's a wiring issue...who would have thought?
Shorted my clutch an inch so now the purple is getting 12v. Done.
ISSUE NOW:
Noticed when I press my brakes in my fuel pump and MIL turn on(even with the key off). Must be because I plugged them into the BAT terminal for power which has something to do with the brake sensor. Also getting power from there is the TCC/Brake signal wire from the new harness. Any input on this issue?
I'm not sure but I think getting power from BAT is fine. But because I also gave the TCC/brake signal power from there as well it's turning those other things on when it shouldn't be?
The TCC/brake signal wire said to give 12v(When brakes not applied) I guess the BAT area wasn't correct?
Shorted my clutch an inch so now the purple is getting 12v. Done.
ISSUE NOW:
Noticed when I press my brakes in my fuel pump and MIL turn on(even with the key off). Must be because I plugged them into the BAT terminal for power which has something to do with the brake sensor. Also getting power from there is the TCC/Brake signal wire from the new harness. Any input on this issue?
I'm not sure but I think getting power from BAT is fine. But because I also gave the TCC/brake signal power from there as well it's turning those other things on when it shouldn't be?
The TCC/brake signal wire said to give 12v(When brakes not applied) I guess the BAT area wasn't correct?
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Oct 28, 2012 at 03:13 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Fisher, IL
Yeah. I definitely don't understand the BAT terminal in the fuse block.
It's got constant 12v which is what I need. But every time you step on the brake it still has 12v but must cycle everything?
I'm not sure if that's how it normally is or if it's because of the stuff I have hooked up to it.
TCC and MIL light... fuel pump shouldn't care..it just wants power.
It's got constant 12v which is what I need. But every time you step on the brake it still has 12v but must cycle everything?
I'm not sure if that's how it normally is or if it's because of the stuff I have hooked up to it.
TCC and MIL light... fuel pump shouldn't care..it just wants power.
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Thread Starter
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From: Fisher, IL
I know I rambled on about a lot of junk today but anyone have any insight on why the brakes are causing my MIL and fuel pump to turn on?
The BAT terminal is 12v constant but for some reason the brakes are acting like the ignition and turning on stuff that shouldn't be on without the key turned.
The BAT terminal is 12v constant but for some reason the brakes are acting like the ignition and turning on stuff that shouldn't be on without the key turned.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
It started!
Good news is it started and ran
(without blowing up)
Was brushing my teeth and figured i'd hookup my corrected purple wire back up to the starter and try it. Started right up.
Exhaust smoked like crazy with the paint curing on it and the oils spilled on it over the past few months. And I have a radiator leak and a heater core leak it looks like coming into the passenger side.
I let it run about 1min min then shut it down to check the smoke was only from the exhaust. Then started it again for another min.
Bad news is it only made it those two startups and on the 3 it just clicked. SO i'll have to deal with that tomorrow. Figure out what I screwed up lol.
also bad news is that it's not nearly loud enough. Mufflers will need to come out of the sidepipes.
Still need to figure out the orange BAT terminal issue!!!
and the crazy BUBBA wiring to the old distributor.
(without blowing up)Was brushing my teeth and figured i'd hookup my corrected purple wire back up to the starter and try it. Started right up.
Exhaust smoked like crazy with the paint curing on it and the oils spilled on it over the past few months. And I have a radiator leak and a heater core leak it looks like coming into the passenger side.
I let it run about 1min min then shut it down to check the smoke was only from the exhaust. Then started it again for another min.
Bad news is it only made it those two startups and on the 3 it just clicked. SO i'll have to deal with that tomorrow. Figure out what I screwed up lol.
also bad news is that it's not nearly loud enough. Mufflers will need to come out of the sidepipes.
Still need to figure out the orange BAT terminal issue!!!
and the crazy BUBBA wiring to the old distributor.
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Oct 28, 2012 at 10:57 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Fisher, IL
The whole fuel pump turning on when you step on the brake seems a bit weird. I guess the car wants you to Go...or Really GO. no stopping.
Thread Starter
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From: Fisher, IL
Proof that it at least started before it gets washed away by Hurricane Sandy.
Cold start, plus I think my battery is a bit low as it doesn't seem like a strong start.
Only two codes that show up are related to the #1 and #2 cooling fans. I didn't use the harness to hook up Dewitts fans so not sure if those codes need to be wiped out or if I can just ground the two wires in the harness or something.
http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=MVI_0510.mp4
click
Cold start, plus I think my battery is a bit low as it doesn't seem like a strong start.
Only two codes that show up are related to the #1 and #2 cooling fans. I didn't use the harness to hook up Dewitts fans so not sure if those codes need to be wiped out or if I can just ground the two wires in the harness or something.
http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=MVI_0510.mp4
click
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Oct 29, 2012 at 03:11 PM.
Team Owner
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It's funny, but when I first started reading this thread I was wondering if maybe your clutch switch wasn't getting depressed fully. I know for a fact that will keep the engine from cranking despite what "Gary's 68" says. I found that one out myself when I misadjusted the Tick clutch MC on my C5. 
As for the fuel pump only running when you hit the brakes, then simply put you've got it powered from the brake light circuit. I don't know exactly where you're pulling power from, but I promise you it's only going hot when you hit the brakes.
As for the fuel pump only running when you hit the brakes, then simply put you've got it powered from the brake light circuit. I don't know exactly where you're pulling power from, but I promise you it's only going hot when you hit the brakes.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
It's funny, but when I first started reading this thread I was wondering if maybe your clutch switch wasn't getting depressed fully. I know for a fact that will keep the engine from cranking despite what "Gary's 68" says. I found that one out myself when I misadjusted the Tick clutch MC on my C5.
As for the fuel pump only running when you hit the brakes, then simply put you've got it powered from the brake light circuit. I don't know exactly where you're pulling power from, but I promise you it's only going hot when you hit the brakes.
As for the fuel pump only running when you hit the brakes, then simply put you've got it powered from the brake light circuit. I don't know exactly where you're pulling power from, but I promise you it's only going hot when you hit the brakes.
I stole power for a few things from the BAT terminal in the fuse box. It's constant 12v off as well as run/crank. Which makes it weird that when the brakes are pressed it causes some sort of surge or break for that split second to cause the relay to come on... I guess to make things easy I'll just find another constant power source...
Thread Starter
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From: Fisher, IL