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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 12:27 AM
  #1  
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From: Lucas TX
Default 76 seat question

The seat tracks are rusted tight on both sides of my "new" 76. The release lever moves, but the spring does not take it to the default (locked) position. I cannot tell what direction locks the seat and what direction allows me to move it. The service manual I got covers our engine and transmission, but it came with the Fisher body manual which is no help. Can someone lucky enough to have a seat that moves tell me which way the lever works? Thanks.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 01:13 AM
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toward the outside of the car locks. moving the level towards the center releases it.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 08:27 PM
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gotta take the seats out and spray the crap out of the tracks with liquid wrench, sliding each track back and forth a lot
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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I would love to. They are stuck all the way back. Not sure how I get the back bolt out without moving it up. I am spraying WD-40 from the front of the track and hoping it eventually breaks loose. Any better ideas?
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed T
You need leverage to move the seat forward to access the rear bolts. Remove T Tops, protect the seat bottom with a towel and use a crow bar, long 2x4 or whatever will fit between the seat bottom and waterfall to nudge it forward. Wd40 aint much help, you may find Break Free, PB blaster, even auto transmission fluid.... will work more to your satisfaction.

once you get the seats out, pull the tracks and toss them in a container of white vinegar , cover the container with a towel and forget 'em for a few days to a week. Once you've done that, working the adjuster, knock the tracks back and forth with a rubber mallet until they are free and loose. Be sure to flush all the vinegar out with fresh water and you will be good to go. On reinstall spray the track insides with white spray grease with the little plastic tube nozzle.

you should state your location in your profile, a local member can come over to give you a hand on your projects
.
hmmm, very interesting....i used vinegar on my q-jet to save money on soaking it in carb cleaner. didn't know it transformed rust like that..
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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Thanks for the hint to update my profile. I did.

I was worried about putting too much pressure on the back of the seat. They are leather and, other than the tracks, in pretty good shape. I will try one of the other products because WD 40 isn't doing much good.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cwaynem
Thanks for the hint to update my profile. I did.

I was worried about putting too much pressure on the back of the seat. They are leather and, other than the tracks, in pretty good shape. I will try one of the other products because WD 40 isn't doing much good.
you gotta get the seat lever slid so that its only rust keeping it from moving, otherwise, forget it. wd 40 is kinda light, try some "liquid wrench" use the red tub and try and get it all over the track, the inside one will be tough. If you could some how use a 2x4 or 4x4 with a big hammer and maybe a towel between(to preserve leather), the impact could be the key
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 07:12 AM
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i had the same problem with both seats on my 76. i use fogging oil as a lubricant/rust preventative. worked wonders on my seat tracks,hood latching mechanism,door hinges,headlights,seat belts,well you get the idea. wd40 is less than useless it is a water disperser and that is it. in your area check and see if "revive" engine fogging oil is available.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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if there is room in the track to move the seats rearward then banging them in that direction could be key to getting rusted stuff broke loose. great point buckhorn 76, about wd40
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 10:43 PM
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From: Lucas TX
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PB blaster worked! The PB blaster tube supplied wouldn't go far enough down the track, so I used a short length of scrap 3/16 hard brake line and pushed it down each side of the track as far as it would go. The PB blaster tube fits perfectly in the brake line extension. I used a board between the seat back stop screw and back waterfall to pry it loose. No pressure on the leather. With a little wiggling, it worked free on both the driver and passenger side. PB blaster even worked the seat release loose enough so the spring pulls it back in the locked position. Thanks for the help!
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:30 AM
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atta boy.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cwaynem
PB blaster worked! The PB blaster tube supplied wouldn't go far enough down the track, so I used a short length of scrap 3/16 hard brake line and pushed it down each side of the track as far as it would go. The PB blaster tube fits perfectly in the brake line extension. I used a board between the seat back stop screw and back waterfall to pry it loose. No pressure on the leather. With a little wiggling, it worked free on both the driver and passenger side. PB blaster even worked the seat release loose enough so the spring pulls it back in the locked position. Thanks for the help!
alright! great tip on the brake line thing as an "extension"
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Old May 31, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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I've got the same problem ... now i know: lever towards the center of the car, break line, pb blaster (that stuff smells!) and a 2x4. Hard to believe no hammer or duck tape is involved.

How long did you let it soak?
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 01:00 AM
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had the same prob used a short socket with a swivel and a extension after that pb blast the hell out of it and hit the track back and forth with a hammer until loose
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:06 AM
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5 - 10 minute soak worked for me.....overnight would probably be ideal and need less banging and prying.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:57 AM
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Another great option would be amsoil metal protector.It works better
than pb blaster but does not leave the strong odor behind.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 76strokervette
Another great option would be amsoil metal protector.It works better
than pb blaster but does not leave the strong odor behind.
yup.....same with fogging oil.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 05:43 PM
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I removed the front bolts and pried up the front a couple inches. Was able to spray PB Plaster down the track. Took and hour of tapping, rocking prying and finally using my weight on the seat to break them free ... THEY ARE OUT!!!!

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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 12:23 AM
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great advice in this thread, thanks. looks like soaking my rails in kroil and banging the seat rails with a hammer and hopefully i'll be able to move the seat back.
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