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The seat tracks are rusted tight on both sides of my "new" 76. The release lever moves, but the spring does not take it to the default (locked) position. I cannot tell what direction locks the seat and what direction allows me to move it. The service manual I got covers our engine and transmission, but it came with the Fisher body manual which is no help. Can someone lucky enough to have a seat that moves tell me which way the lever works? Thanks.
I would love to. They are stuck all the way back. Not sure how I get the back bolt out without moving it up. I am spraying WD-40 from the front of the track and hoping it eventually breaks loose. Any better ideas?
You need leverage to move the seat forward to access the rear bolts. Remove T Tops, protect the seat bottom with a towel and use a crow bar, long 2x4 or whatever will fit between the seat bottom and waterfall to nudge it forward. Wd40 aint much help, you may find Break Free, PB blaster, even auto transmission fluid.... will work more to your satisfaction.
once you get the seats out, pull the tracks and toss them in a container of white vinegar , cover the container with a towel and forget 'em for a few days to a week. Once you've done that, working the adjuster, knock the tracks back and forth with a rubber mallet until they are free and loose. Be sure to flush all the vinegar out with fresh water and you will be good to go. On reinstall spray the track insides with white spray grease with the little plastic tube nozzle.
you should state your location in your profile, a local member can come over to give you a hand on your projects
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hmmm, very interesting....i used vinegar on my q-jet to save money on soaking it in carb cleaner. didn't know it transformed rust like that..
I was worried about putting too much pressure on the back of the seat. They are leather and, other than the tracks, in pretty good shape. I will try one of the other products because WD 40 isn't doing much good.
I was worried about putting too much pressure on the back of the seat. They are leather and, other than the tracks, in pretty good shape. I will try one of the other products because WD 40 isn't doing much good.
you gotta get the seat lever slid so that its only rust keeping it from moving, otherwise, forget it. wd 40 is kinda light, try some "liquid wrench" use the red tub and try and get it all over the track, the inside one will be tough. If you could some how use a 2x4 or 4x4 with a big hammer and maybe a towel between(to preserve leather), the impact could be the key
i had the same problem with both seats on my 76. i use fogging oil as a lubricant/rust preventative. worked wonders on my seat tracks,hood latching mechanism,door hinges,headlights,seat belts,well you get the idea. wd40 is less than useless it is a water disperser and that is it. in your area check and see if "revive" engine fogging oil is available.
if there is room in the track to move the seats rearward then banging them in that direction could be key to getting rusted stuff broke loose. great point buckhorn 76, about wd40
PB blaster worked! The PB blaster tube supplied wouldn't go far enough down the track, so I used a short length of scrap 3/16 hard brake line and pushed it down each side of the track as far as it would go. The PB blaster tube fits perfectly in the brake line extension. I used a board between the seat back stop screw and back waterfall to pry it loose. No pressure on the leather. With a little wiggling, it worked free on both the driver and passenger side. PB blaster even worked the seat release loose enough so the spring pulls it back in the locked position. Thanks for the help!
PB blaster worked! The PB blaster tube supplied wouldn't go far enough down the track, so I used a short length of scrap 3/16 hard brake line and pushed it down each side of the track as far as it would go. The PB blaster tube fits perfectly in the brake line extension. I used a board between the seat back stop screw and back waterfall to pry it loose. No pressure on the leather. With a little wiggling, it worked free on both the driver and passenger side. PB blaster even worked the seat release loose enough so the spring pulls it back in the locked position. Thanks for the help!
alright! great tip on the brake line thing as an "extension"
I've got the same problem ... now i know: lever towards the center of the car, break line, pb blaster (that stuff smells!) and a 2x4. Hard to believe no hammer or duck tape is involved.
had the same prob used a short socket with a swivel and a extension after that pb blast the hell out of it and hit the track back and forth with a hammer until loose
I removed the front bolts and pried up the front a couple inches. Was able to spray PB Plaster down the track. Took and hour of tapping, rocking prying and finally using my weight on the seat to break them free ... THEY ARE OUT!!!!
great advice in this thread, thanks. looks like soaking my rails in kroil and banging the seat rails with a hammer and hopefully i'll be able to move the seat back.