yes they do. I use to have a motorcycle that didn't crank when it got hot, replaced the relay and didn't help a lick, dropped the $200+ for the starter cuzz taking the original apart and cleaning and lubing didn't help. was flawless ever since, oh and yeah, I wasted $60 buying a new battery first, even returned the good one cuzz when the damn thing didn't start with new battery, I assumed it was bad too....live and learn. only thing he should be doing with battery is unhooking it so he doesn't do any arc welding under there

 

note post #4

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...er-issues.html

 

Update: I could not fit the ratchet in enough to turn the bolt....the rubber surrounding it was getting in the wasy, so I shaved a slice off with a razor blade, and it did the job...removed the battery, took it to NAPA, and had it tested. Heres the interesting part. when they tested it, they attached their equipment to the top posts, and it said it was fine. I asked them to use the side posts, and the battery was dead...bought a new one....and that fixed my problem...I want to thank you and everyone else who had suggestions for me, you guys were a great resource for me and will continue to be as I tackle more and more things on my dream car. Thanks again for all the help

 

Nice work! Man those side posts really had it in for you. The previous owner of my car changed the cables to top mount connections and I installed a 1000 CA battery. Get the most cranking amps you can.

Who woulda thought it was the side posts! That may be why mine was converted, instead of getting the correct battery he cut the cables and converted.

I want to comment on an earlier post about a starter working one day and then not working the next. I don't want to argue the point because obviously anything can happen. However, in my experience, there has usually been symptoms that lead up to the failure.

For example my Corvette starter was slow when hot, would get heat soaked and not start, would not push the bendix all the way out sometimes. Then it started making a clanking noise too. I figured it was old and tired and the headers have had there way with it for some time. When I got it off there was a crack in the housing and the solenoid was just hanging there. Amazing. The new starter absolutley solved some of my hot start problems.

I am glad you got her running! You should post some pictures of what you are working with engine compartment too. If you havent recurved the distributor, that should be on your short list of todo's. You need a good timing light but after that, only about $10 worth of springs.


ps, My favorite thing about Sealy was this liquor store downtown right across from the police station. It was nick named "Blind mans liquor". Every small town needs one of those.

 

wow, that's weird. that makes no sense at all. have you gone for a long drive, turned it off and restarted, just to be certain?

 

It's not too uncommon. The posts can be twisted, over tightened, or jostled too much and a break or bad connection can form in the internal connections.

 

Actually heat has a big effect on cranking, especially on Corvettes. Apparently not related to the problem experienced by the OP, but heat soak is a huge problem on Corvettes because of the tightness of the engine compartment. If a Corvette won't turn over when its hot, its usually a conventional starter that doesn't like getting hot. The solution is to switch to a modern gear reduction starter. FWIW.

 

When you experience a problem like that and all other components are good, then this is most likely the cause as it can be intermittent.
The disc turns every time and it just happens to turn onto a spot on the disc that is carboned so badly to prevent sufficient juice.
It does warn of pending doom for the solenoid unless you want to polish it up a bit to extend it's life.

 

all good posts above, thanks, learned a lot!

 

Good information noonie.
The lug, if eroded can be flipped as it only uses half of its contact surface at a time. A solenoid in this condition will normally click as the solenoid plunger moves. If there is no click, and current supply to the starter is good, heat can play a role in no starting. The S terminal sends power to the coil that produces magnetic force to push the disc onto the contacts. For a constant voltage, heat makes the coil less efficient because it reduces the ampere turns and, hence, the flux density and the torque/force output on the plunger. It then may not be able to overcome the force of the return spring. This is why Chevrolet came out with a kit to boost current to the S terminal (and a weaker replacement spring) to help with problem vehicles that experienced "heat soak".

 

What you ought to do is use my starters.....on second thought I wouldn't sell to any one that used the phrase 'HEAT SOAK' ....its just a ridiculous solution ......rumors by bench racers and back alley mechanics repeated time after time and then some begin to believe the statement .Some what like the propaganda 'Obamba' preached over and over during this past election.......and the dummies believed him

These cars cranked when new without any problems and merely because of age is not correct....But the back alley mechanics can screw up any cars not only Vettes....smart analysis and if a part is really needed a good and correct replacement part cures the problem....sorry but 'heat soak' is not one of them

 

Are you saying excessive heat has zero effect on a starters performance?

 

Two days ago (2) I had a Chevy truck that would not start. No click, no action at all. Would not jump, battery and connections were all good. Hit the solenoid with a tire iron, and it cranked. It cranked 20 more times after that. It was still cranking when I replaced the starter. I replaced starter and solenoid both as they had over 200,000 miles.

Most of the time it will be simple problems causing no start, but to ignore heat problems as completely unfounded is.......

The back alley Chevrolet engineers must have not known how to do smart analysis when they designed a "heat soak" kit in the 70's. This was not a rumor. C3s were new in the 70's. I must be a dummy for believing, because I watched Dealership mechanics install the kits- in the 70's. And because I have repaired several severe duty vehicles over the years with this problem. It is a proven scientific fact that heat changes resistance - increasing it.

 

the ground cable from the batt. to the frame was mentioned & pictured. sometime in the future when you have the car up have a close look at that ground cable for signs of corrosion (green powder- maybe white). i have a 25,000 mile car & awhile back i had what i thought was starter problems- peeled a few inches off the lower end of the cable & found it almost corroded in two. wouldn't hurt to replace it when you get a little ahead. if it ever fails you on the road or in a parking lot you're pretty much screwed. there are a lot of grounds & all are important- 1 from the pass. side of your engine block near the starter to the inside of the motor mount- looks like a battery cable- easy to change & not expensive. just a thought.