Anyone have any tips on how to remove some stuck headlight bucket retaining spring screws? I am trying to rebuild my headlights, but cannot get all the screws out of the headlight lid. I have 3 screws stuck with the springs around them for the headlight buckets and one screw stuck with a headlight adjuster. I have tried soaking them with Kroil, but I am to the point of almost stripping the phillips head now. I was debating if cutting of the spring and some vise grips would get them out.

 

I just posted regarding various fluids to remove rusted screws. The best fluid is a 50/50 mixture of automatic trans fluid (ATF) and acetone. But, don't use it where body paint is nearby, as it will 'eat' paint. The next best was Kroil oil, which I believe is safe for paint.

 

As a near 40-year aircraft repair technician I have made a living getting corroded, stuck, frozen, and otherwise fossilized screws out of crusty old airplanes. That said, there are some fasteners that simply cannot be removed without cutting or drilling them out.

I disassembled my '70's headlight doors for rebuilding a few months ago, and three screws just would not come out no matter what experimental combination of Aerokroil, PB Blaster, or whatever else I used to loosen them, so I wound up drilling them out and tapping the holes for Heli-coils. If I remember correctly they are 8-32 threads (That's NOT 8/32". 8-32 refers to "#8 (or 5/32" dia.), 32 thread per inch). You can try using a #1 EZ-out-type screw extractor in a #40 hole, but EZ-outs tend to be quite brittle and if you snap one off by twisting too hard on it then you've got a bigger problem than the one you started with.

The hole size for an 8-32 Heli-coil is #17, or .173". Start by drilling the head off of the screw, then slowly and carefully begin drilling into the screw(s) first with a #40 drill, then a #30. Just go a little bit at a time so you can make off-center corrections by 'steering' the drill in the direction you want the hole to go. Once you've got most of the screw drilled away it may break loose and you might then be able to fish the remainder out.

Have fun!

 

I use(d) PB Blaster, too. But, the ATF/acetone stuff is 5 times better than PB or Liquid Wrench. I would try it, before giving up and drilling out screws.

 

I plan on giving it a shot. I think I have some of both lying around the shop. I think I am going to cut the springs off so I can replace them anyway. Then get some vice grips on it.

 

forget the vise grips-all they'll do is snap the head offf the screws. as suggested, try the 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, and use heat from a small torch. don't rush this, heat the screw, spray on the atf and then wait overnight. repeat if needed. if you break the head off these small screws, it's very difficult to center drill the remaining stud because the screw is much harder than the aluminum case.

 

Still working on three, and I had one snap so I am stuck drilling it out.

 

Many years ago when these kind of lights were commonplace, an old mechanic showed me that he would put a small dab of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip to keep it from slipping. I've tried it and it does help.

 

No sure shot here but you have nothing to lose...

Try a cordless drill with an adjustable clutch and a good sharp phillips bit that is the right size (#1,#2, etc.) for your screw head. Set the clutch low and try to back it out, with the clutch "popping" like that design does. The popping of the clutch acts like a mini-impact and might make the difference. You can progressively increase the force of the clutch until you are in danger of stripping out the head.

Also, I haven't found anything better than Kroil for stuck bolts. Give them a little squirt each day.