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Make sure you recheck them again after a couple thousand miles I. A friend of mine put new rubber in about the same time in his 66 vette when I did mine. We were running at Road America a couple years ago and the rubber bushing slid out of the A frame when the bolt fell out. After that I checked mine and found out they were loose.
my rubber bushings had the sleeves already installed.. and if you look at the pic of the washer were the bolt pulled through you can see where the serrations cut into the washer, so he does have the sleeves installed... but I guess that's what 90lbs of torque will do to that washer! LOL!
It's pretty clear given the diameter of those lockwashers vs. the I.D. of the sleeve that fits inside the bushing that 90 ft. lbs. of torque on that bolt is quite likely to shear the inside of that washer. If the lockwasher's O.D. were larger it wouldn't be able to act like a punch as it's doing in this case.
In the case of my own Vette I just torqued the bolts down by hand and used a drop of red Loctite on the threads. No problems after 10 years...
Maybe so, but if a bolt doesn't reach its yield it will not stay in place imo.
I do understand why they do that. With the shroud, headers and what not in place.
Might be true for a bolt without a lock washer in a severe use, but thats what a lock washer is for. Fact is these things were way over torqued, and that washer for sure reached its yield strength.
There should be a lock washer too.
Last edited by wombvette; Dec 1, 2012 at 12:13 AM.
in 40 years of playing with cars, I've never seen anything like that that wasnt a mistake, either the wrong part or to much...tweeking. did you compare the old bushings ?
With all due respect, but did you ever remove a bushing from an A-arm? If you have anything to compare it to after taking it out, I would say you are some expert, but in my book that just isn't possible.
Anyway, just finished it. Installed the original washers. They didn't bend, no nothing. Not even the paint peeled off like it did on the washer in the picture.
Sure thing this was a faulty part. An El Cheapo washer in an otherwise not so cheap part. Sorry to say, but I got zipped here. Probably a Chinese washer.
Hate to think what could have happened when on the road. Those who are planning on buying this part are warned.
Last edited by Belgian1979vette; Dec 1, 2012 at 12:18 PM.
in 40 years of playing with cars, I've never seen anything like that happen that wasnt a mistake, either the wrong part or to much...tweeking. did you compare the old bushings ?
Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
With all due respect, but did you ever remove a bushing from an A-arm? If you have anything to compare it to after taking it out, I would say you are some expert, but in my book that just isn't possible.
As I mentioned in the other a-arm bushing post you were involved in, I've personally removed and subsequently replaced about two dozen control arm bushings, and have NEVER tightened a bolt enough to distort a washer to that degree, and have never seen one like that. In fact, WTH didn't you stop when the washer started to distort??
Originally Posted by RPOZ4Z
did you torque the original washer to 90 ft lbs like you did the first time??
I would say that you didn't get a an "El cheapo" part... you just torqued the CRAP out of it the first time.
admit it.. you screwed up by torquing the first washer to 90 ft lbs.
Think about it...a lug nut, on a 7/16" stud, is only torqued to 95 ft/lbs!!
Below you'll find the torque specs for the a-arms from 1968-1982. I just revised this on our site.
I have personally done this more times than I have fingers and toes x ten! (I won't do it now ).
I never **ever** trust aftermarket manuals for torque specs.
It does appear that you have over torqued the bolts, I'm sorry! You are missing the lock washers that belong on there as well.
In most cases when the shafts are over torqued it will usually twist out the center of the control arm shaft bushing, strip the bolt and as bad as I hate to say it, distort the large washer. (same thing happens if you tighten them without a load).
All the rubber stock bushings have the toothsome spacer inside it that the washer crush's too. Poly bushings, honestly it's been too long since I've done poly that I don't remember, I'd have to look at one.
You can see them in this picture.
IMHO
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 1, 2012 at 04:12 PM.
did you torque the original washer to 90 ft lbs like you did the first time??
I would say that you didn't get a an "El cheapo" part... you just torqued the CRAP out of it the first time.
admit it.. you screwed up by torquing the first washer to 90 ft lbs.
Read what it said, it didn't reach the 95 lbs/ft figure, it broke far before ever reaching 95. The lock washer was in there it in pulled in the big washer.
In the info of Wilcox above, I see the lowers are torqued to 60-75 pounds for the 79. They are at 70 right now. Nothing moved.
If you look at the second pictures you will see that the top washers that came with the bushings has begun to collapse as well. Those were at 60.
Inner sleeve was fine. Bolts were not stripped as pictures show.
Last edited by Belgian1979vette; Dec 1, 2012 at 06:09 PM.
Below you'll find the torque specs for the a-arms from 1968-1982. I just revised this on our site.
I have personally done this more times than I have fingers and toes x ten! (I won't do it now ).
I never **ever** trust aftermarket manuals for torque specs.
It does appear that you have over torqued the bolts, I'm sorry! You are missing the lock washers that belong on there as well.
In most cases when the shafts are over torqued it will usually twist out the center of the control arm shaft bushing, strip the bolt and as bad as I hate to say it, distort the large washer. (same thing happens if you tighten them without a load).
All the rubber stock bushings have the toothsome spacer inside it that the washer crush's too. Poly bushings, honestly it's been too long since I've done poly that I don't remember, I'd have to look at one.
You can see them in this picture.
IMHO
Willcox
So a workshop manual reprint from the original is not correct ?
BTW : there were some here suggesting 35 as bolt torque for those.
Last edited by Belgian1979vette; Dec 1, 2012 at 06:18 PM.
As I mentioned in the other a-arm bushing post you were involved in, I've personally removed and subsequently replaced about two dozen control arm bushings, and have NEVER tightened a bolt enough to distort a washer to that degree, and have never seen one like that. In fact, WTH didn't you stop when the washer started to distort??
Think about it...a lug nut, on a 7/16" stud, is only torqued to 95 ft/lbs!!
As a matter of a fact the lug nuts on alu wheels are torqued to 80 ft/lbs.
But in all your wisdom I would like to know how you get your bushings out in 1 piece when they need replacing, so that you can compare the depth of the inner sleeve.
Anyway, for comparison sake, I'm going to run a file over one of those washers and compare it to the OEM's I have left over. Bet it's way harder.
Last edited by Belgian1979vette; Dec 1, 2012 at 06:17 PM.
With all due respect, but did you ever remove a bushing from an A-arm? If you have anything to compare it to after taking it out, I would say you are some expert, but in my book that just isn't possible.
Anyway, just finished it. Installed the original washers. They didn't bend, no nothing. Not even the paint peeled off like it did on the washer in the picture.
Sure thing this was a faulty part. An El Cheapo washer in an otherwise not so cheap part. Sorry to say, but I got zipped here. Probably a Chinese washer.
Hate to think what could have happened when on the road. Those who are planning on buying this part are warned.
I've rebuilt suspensions for a living , among other things for, over 40 years. those dont require the major amount of torque you used. all they do is retain the bushing from movement, if you found success with new washers ,good for you, after you mis-installed the others , good for you. personal attacks are a sign of inexperience and low I.Q. imho..try to manup
I've rebuilt suspensions for a living, among other things for, over 40 years. Those dont require the major amount of torque you used. All they do is retain the bushing from movement, if you found success with new washers, good for you, after you mis-installed the others, good for you. Personal attacks are a sign of inexperience and low I.Q. imho..try to manup
this is a very interesting thread that i hope gets resolved.i question willcox as to what difference there is in tightening the bolts under load as opposed to on the workbench.in my mind when the car sits on the suspension with the bolts loose is the same as when on the workbench.in my case i did not change the springs so i measured the rod angle and tightened the bolts on my bench.(hard to reach uppers in place).the lowers i did on the ground with no issues.job done last year and have had no problems.
Last edited by billcarson; Dec 2, 2012 at 09:03 AM.
this is a very interesting thread that i hope gets resolved.i question willcox as to what difference there is in tightening the bolts under load as opposed to on the workbench.in my mind when the car sits on the suspension with the bolts loose is the same as when on the workbench.in my case i did not change the springs so i measured the rod angle and tightened the bolts on my bench.(hard to reach uppers in place).the lowers i did on the ground with no issues.job done last year and have had no problems.
You made a valiant attempt to represent the angle the arms will be at when installed, which is far more effort than most people would put into the job. However, I still install the arms with ALL the pivot bolts only lightly tightened, bounce the car up and down vigorously several times, let it settle, then snug up the bolts.
this is a very interesting thread that i hope gets resolved.i question willcox as to what difference there is in tightening the bolts under load as opposed to on the workbench.in my mind when the car sits on the suspension with the bolts loose is the same as when on the workbench.in my case i did not change the springs so i measured the rod angle and tightened the bolts on my bench.(hard to reach uppers in place).the lowers i did on the ground with no issues.job done last year and have had no problems.
They're not tightened "under load". They're tightened at the suspension's neutral load. Leadfoot4 accurately describes both the approximate value of your angle locator "off car" and the published way to perform the work.