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I had my top bolts back out some years ago, after replacing the poly I put in 18 years ago, with rubber this go around......I retightened with locktite RED.....never an issue since then now here is a funny....
all my years of working on cars, the only bolts I have any respect for the torque specs are engine head bolts, and main/rod cap bolts, all else is a time waster, just use some common sense,
and these nutz at tire shops torquing wheel lugs to 100 ft lbs are KRAZY.....
mine get 5 taps after seated with the Ingersol 1/2 impact on 125 lbs pressure,
Keep in mind those control arm bushing bolts are tightened with the suspension totally loaded with car weight, so the inner sleeve spins on the cross shaft ends, then gets clamped down snug with the washer/bolt setup.....
Bill- The AIM only specifies you leave the lowers loose.. Why just the lowers.. I have no idea.
It has been my practice to leave both upper and lower bolts loose prior to setting the car down to prevent any unnecessary twisting of the bushing (even while installing). Tightening to a specific angle seems as if it would take more time to do vs. just installing it and then tightening the bolts. IMHO.
Besides on this car they are easy to get too...
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 2, 2012 at 10:27 AM.
I believe the reason you do it with a settled suspension is, if you look at the inner sleeve above, it has small teeth which imbed themselves into the washer as you tighten it making the inner sleeve and washer twist together as the suspension moves. Feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken.
I believe the reason you do it with a settled suspension is, if you look at the inner sleeve above, it has small teeth which imbed themselves into the washer as you tighten it making the inner sleeve and washer twist together as the suspension moves. Feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken.
the upper a-frame bolts are really tough to get to on my particular car,an early '76.i did not want to disturb the shroud so i devised a way to reproduce the a-frame to rod angle while at rest on it's natural weight.this was not really difficult and saved me a bunch of potential grief.with nothing else changing in the suspension,except ball joints,i felt i could reproduce that angle as if it was installed on the frame.
the upper a-frame bolts are really tough to get to on my particular car,an early '76.i did not want to disturb the shroud so i devised a way to reproduce the a-frame to rod angle while at rest on it's natural weight.this was not really difficult and saved me a bunch of potential grief.with nothing else changing in the suspension,except ball joints,i felt i could reproduce that angle as if it was installed on the frame.
I will say.. you did one hell of a job..
I'll also say.. this 65 in the pic above came in for a carpet install... and it's kicking our Azz.. right now... Were 14 weeks behind. But I'm not complaining.. Busy is good..
As a final note : Zip wanted to reembourse me for the hardware. Since I already installed the originals I offered they repay me for postage so I could sent them the damaged washers, so they could examine them.
I'll also say.. this 65 in the pic above came in for a carpet install... and it's kicking our Azz.. right now... Were 14 weeks behind. But I'm not complaining.. Busy is good..
aren't you guys taking a simple carpet install a little too far???
aren't you guys taking a simple carpet install a little too far???
It has become the butt of many a joke It is true though. First the carpet... then the dash cluster was to be refreshed. Then we were told by the customer that there may be a water leak.. The lower corners of both windshield pillars were rusted all the way through. The only way to get to this is by removing the front end... You can follow this restoration and a few others on our facebook page.
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