Body Removal Question
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Body Removal Question
On a 1979 Corvette can I remove the entire body as a single unit from the frame? So complete body, bumpers, hood, interior, and glass all in one unit.
Rebuilding suspension, have to also replace the body mounts along with all the brake lines and fuel lines. I figured while I am at it strip and paint the frame.
Rebuilding suspension, have to also replace the body mounts along with all the brake lines and fuel lines. I figured while I am at it strip and paint the frame.
Drifting
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The bumper covers have to come off, front and rear. Disconnect and remove the battery. Then disconnect everthing else.
Including but not limited to: at least four grounding wires, steering column "rag" joint, all electrical connections between frame, engine and body, all radiator and heater hoses, engine fan, seat belt reinforcements, parking brake cable, clutch linkage and shift boot (on a manual), and linkage on an automatic, master cylinder brake lines (I disconnected the MC from the firewall and supported it on the frame with a Rube Goldberg device of wood and duct tape, so I would not disturb the hydraulics) fuel tank sender wiring, and the vacuum hoses that operate the headlight mechanism. I unbolted the AC compressor from the engine and fastened it to the fender with some old wire, so I would not crack the seals. The hardest part is, that the eight body mount bolts are often quite rusted. Don't forget the radiator mount to frame bolts. Noland Adams used to sell a video about it.
Good luck to you. It's a bunch of work. But very satisfying when you are all done.
Including but not limited to: at least four grounding wires, steering column "rag" joint, all electrical connections between frame, engine and body, all radiator and heater hoses, engine fan, seat belt reinforcements, parking brake cable, clutch linkage and shift boot (on a manual), and linkage on an automatic, master cylinder brake lines (I disconnected the MC from the firewall and supported it on the frame with a Rube Goldberg device of wood and duct tape, so I would not disturb the hydraulics) fuel tank sender wiring, and the vacuum hoses that operate the headlight mechanism. I unbolted the AC compressor from the engine and fastened it to the fender with some old wire, so I would not crack the seals. The hardest part is, that the eight body mount bolts are often quite rusted. Don't forget the radiator mount to frame bolts. Noland Adams used to sell a video about it.
Good luck to you. It's a bunch of work. But very satisfying when you are all done.
Last edited by gcusmano74; Dec 1, 2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Thank you for the info.
What is the best way to lift the body? It is complete and painted so I do not want to cause any damage.
The last car I did this with was a 1956 Bel Air, I had just used a engine hoist and a strap.
Also with the Bel Air I had built two large saw horses from wood and had set the body on that. They went from one side to the other and it worked really. It allowed me to store the frame under it. Is there adequate support on the corvette body to do the same?
What is the best way to lift the body? It is complete and painted so I do not want to cause any damage.
The last car I did this with was a 1956 Bel Air, I had just used a engine hoist and a strap.
Also with the Bel Air I had built two large saw horses from wood and had set the body on that. They went from one side to the other and it worked really. It allowed me to store the frame under it. Is there adequate support on the corvette body to do the same?
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I used a 2 ton eng. hoist, eng. balancer and straps. I did a test lift about 6 inch. and found that the weight of the body pushed the doors in so I ran the rear straps inside the opened doors and ran the front straps as far forward as I could with the straps placed forward of the door seam. I placed the hoist just forward of the windshield frame. I removed as much weight as I could and placed the body on a dolly that I built from plans that was recommended in a corvette forum. I put towels under the forward straps to protect the paint.
Last edited by 69ttop; Dec 2, 2012 at 12:01 PM.
Drifting
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The Center of Gravity on the separated body of a C3 is about right above the shift lever. So get your hoist point straight above that, and hook the straps just forward and rearward of the doors on both sides. I added two ropes to the top of radiator support.
Go slow. There's always a wire or something that might hang up as you lift.
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Of course you could. It's just easier to use the straps that are already cut to the right length.
The Center of Gravity on the separated body of a C3 is about right above the shift lever. So get your hoist point straight above that, and hook the straps just forward and rearward of the doors on both sides. I added two ropes to the top of radiator support.
Go slow. There's always a wire or something that might hang up as you lift.
The Center of Gravity on the separated body of a C3 is about right above the shift lever. So get your hoist point straight above that, and hook the straps just forward and rearward of the doors on both sides. I added two ropes to the top of radiator support.
Go slow. There's always a wire or something that might hang up as you lift.
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Drifting
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CG is above the shifter when the body is complete. If you remove the front clip, the CG will be more to the rear of the car.
Before you drop the body back, when you are all done, find a couple of pieces of 1/4" steel pipe. You can use them as alignment pins, to place the body back correctly on the frame. If you open the doors, and remove the sill plates, you will find two plastic plugs, front and rear. Under one of each of the holes per side, you will find a hole in the frame. Use your 1/4" pipes to guide the body back on the frame. If you can't find 1/4" pipe, try to find 9/16" rods.
Good luck.
Before you drop the body back, when you are all done, find a couple of pieces of 1/4" steel pipe. You can use them as alignment pins, to place the body back correctly on the frame. If you open the doors, and remove the sill plates, you will find two plastic plugs, front and rear. Under one of each of the holes per side, you will find a hole in the frame. Use your 1/4" pipes to guide the body back on the frame. If you can't find 1/4" pipe, try to find 9/16" rods.
Good luck.
Drifting
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The straps hook onto the steel rocker arm rails, under the fiberglass, outboard of the frame. Remove the trim pieces under each door and you can access them easily. I had to open up the hooks on the lift kit a bit so they would fit correctly. I used a piece of solid round bar and a press. You could do it with a vise, if necessary.
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The straps hook onto the steel rocker arm rails, under the fiberglass, outboard of the frame. Remove the trim pieces under each door and you can access them easily. I had to open up the hooks on the lift kit a bit so they would fit correctly. I used a piece of solid round bar and a press. You could do it with a vise, if necessary.
Thank you for the idea of using mettle bar and a vice to open the hooks up, I believe that this should do the trick. I will try it on my day off....Sunday and post how it fits.
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I really need some help with what I need to disconnect on the front of the body to remove the body from the frame. There is the cylinder shaped cross member piece that bolts on the very front of the frame on both sides, plus on the out side of that the bumper brackets. This is attached to the end of the frame on each side with four large bolts, do I need to remove these four bolts to detach the front of the body?
Reading other post I was thinking that the large bolts that connect the radiator core support to the frame(cylinder shaped cross member piece) was all that was needed on the front, but after looking at everything I realize that there is a lot more to it.
Everything else is now apart, just have to figure the front out and the body will be ready to pull from the frame.
Is there a easy way to post photos on here?
Reading other post I was thinking that the large bolts that connect the radiator core support to the frame(cylinder shaped cross member piece) was all that was needed on the front, but after looking at everything I realize that there is a lot more to it.
Everything else is now apart, just have to figure the front out and the body will be ready to pull from the frame.
Is there a easy way to post photos on here?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
I really need some help with what I need to disconnect on the front of the body to remove the body from the frame. There is the cylinder shaped cross member piece that bolts on the very front of the frame on both sides, plus on the out side of that the bumper brackets. This is attached to the end of the frame on each side with four large bolts, do I need to remove these four bolts to detach the front of the body?
Reading other post I was thinking that the large bolts that connect the radiator core support to the frame(cylinder shaped cross member piece) was all that was needed on the front, but after looking at everything I realize that there is a lot more to it.
Everything else is now apart, just have to figure the front out and the body will be ready to pull from the frame.
Is there a easy way to post photos on here?
Reading other post I was thinking that the large bolts that connect the radiator core support to the frame(cylinder shaped cross member piece) was all that was needed on the front, but after looking at everything I realize that there is a lot more to it.
Everything else is now apart, just have to figure the front out and the body will be ready to pull from the frame.
Is there a easy way to post photos on here?
As for photos, you need to use "photobucket". Somehow. Don't ask me how. I dunno.
Last edited by gcusmano74; Dec 16, 2012 at 09:49 PM.
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I have seen photos where the body has been removed with the rubber bumper covers still on, just trying to figure out how to do it with out braking something.
Drifting
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