Heads back from the machine shop, how do I prep for paint?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 134
From: Bushkill Twp. PA
St. Jude Donor '17
Heads back from the machine shop, how do I prep for paint?
Hey gents,
I recently got my heads back from the machine shop. They are in plastic bags. Machined surfaces, actually all surfaces, are oiled. I have a junk valve cover to mask the top/valve train.
Whats the best way to clean and prep the oily sides that I need to paint orange? I'm guessing I need to mask the exhaust flange areas with painters tape. Same with the entire intake side......
I recently got my heads back from the machine shop. They are in plastic bags. Machined surfaces, actually all surfaces, are oiled. I have a junk valve cover to mask the top/valve train.
Whats the best way to clean and prep the oily sides that I need to paint orange? I'm guessing I need to mask the exhaust flange areas with painters tape. Same with the entire intake side......
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Install the valve cover to protect the valves/springs/seals. Wad paper to put into spark plug holes and intake/exhaust ports. You can cover with blue painters tape, but don't use duct tape, or you'll be trying to get the adhesive residue off. Shoot outside with brake cleaner, carb cleaner; or wash with lacquer thinner or with good biodegradable cleaner (ie, Simple Green, Purple Power, etc.). Then rinse well with lots of fresh water and allow to dry completely. DO NOT put in an oven to dry at an elevated temperature...the cast iron will start rusting.
For painting, it's best to use a very good quality paint that will handle at least 500*F. You could prime the bare metal with a zinc chromate [self-etching] primer first, if you want. But, many good engine paints do not even require a primer. Select your paint wisely, then follow directions as to whether a primer is best [or not]. Clear coats are not a good idea in the engine compartment. They tend to yellow or get cloudy due to the heat and petroleum products contacting them.
For painting, it's best to use a very good quality paint that will handle at least 500*F. You could prime the bare metal with a zinc chromate [self-etching] primer first, if you want. But, many good engine paints do not even require a primer. Select your paint wisely, then follow directions as to whether a primer is best [or not]. Clear coats are not a good idea in the engine compartment. They tend to yellow or get cloudy due to the heat and petroleum products contacting them.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 134
From: Bushkill Twp. PA
St. Jude Donor '17
Thank you for your advice, sounds like a solid plan. I picked up some Quanta Orange engine paint based on feedback from the forum.
After I get the tree set up tomorrow, I'll start this prep work and see if I can get one painted tomorrow afternoon.
After I get the tree set up tomorrow, I'll start this prep work and see if I can get one painted tomorrow afternoon.
