C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 11:41 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
540 I should have clarified...cheap stuff meaning those build a bomb shortblocks and imported heads you see on ebay. In the right hands yes not so nice stuff can be put together to last....in the right hands

But expecting a cheapie I beam to do the job where a quality H beam is needed etc

Would be fun to build Makos new motor up to do it up appearance wise as teh stocker thats in it now. Or all grey..kind of like an old Traco motor with stock looking covers /spacers
Car is nice!

Not to hijack the thread what is considered quality. I have broken quality parts. It's all how it is prepped.
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Cuisinartvette,
I plan on painting the whole thing engine orange.
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 09:33 AM
  #43  
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Correction:
I was wrong on the oil pan. 63Mako had spec'd a Hamburger's 0170. This is the correct oil pan with the right side dipstick provision, and the pan that was ordered.
My bad!
Carter
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #44  
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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SRP slugs arrived yesterday!!

Ordered the following yesterday (from Summit):
Water Pump EMP-22203
Bolt Kit ARP-534-9801
Oil Pickup HAM-9727
Timing Set CLO-9-3600TX9
Timing Cover TRD-9915
Gasket Kit FEL-TCS51241
Flywheel HAY-20-130

Nothing happening on engine otherwise. I'm busying myself replacing front wheel bearings, draining diff (500 mi. on rebuild), draining Trans. (500 mi from new), cleaning and checking for loose stuff from the work done last summer.

I do have some questions regarding Balancers. I've been looking at ATI balancers.

What material, Aluminum or Steel? (I want to say Alum.).
Do I need a hub for this? (I'm thinking yes).
What size? (clueless).

Thanks for all input!
Carter
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 11:24 AM
  #46  
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Fluid dampner is what I used. Seems to work good.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #47  
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Check that sizing on the ATI seems many of them may need a slight hone to fit right. Some force them on and can never get them back off haha
They are a good piece though.
always used fluidampners....one day maybe Ill make a switch
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 11:41 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 71scgc
SRP slugs arrived yesterday!!

Ordered the following yesterday (from Summit):
Water Pump EMP-22203
Bolt Kit ARP-534-9801
Oil Pickup HAM-9727
Timing Set CLO-9-3600TX9
Timing Cover TRD-9915
Gasket Kit FEL-TCS51241
Flywheel HAY-20-130

Nothing happening on engine otherwise. I'm busying myself replacing front wheel bearings, draining diff (500 mi. on rebuild), draining Trans. (500 mi from new), cleaning and checking for loose stuff from the work done last summer.

I do have some questions regarding Balancers. I've been looking at ATI balancers.

What material, Aluminum or Steel? (I want to say Alum.).
Do I need a hub for this? (I'm thinking yes).
What size? (clueless).

Thanks for all input!
Carter
Oil pan did not come with pickup?
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #49  
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Parts PileOff to machine shop next week?? I'm hopin'
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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Nice.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 10:48 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 71scgc
Parts Pile
EXPENSIVE Parts Pile that is!!
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 11:02 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by spdrcr29
EXPENSIVE Parts Pile that is!!
As the great Motorhead once said "Fast, Durable, Cheap. Pick two!" The very worst realization is when you spend an extraordinary amount of time, effort and money to build a really nice project and you have a catastrophic failure you know was caused by the one seemingly insignificant corner you cut or questionable quality part you bought and you know you made that choice. Been there, done that makes a sick feeling in the pit of your stomach thinking about it.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 11:29 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
As the great Motorhead once said "Fast, Durable, Cheap. Pick two!" The very worst realization is when you spend an extraordinary amount of time, effort and money to build a really nice project and you have a catastrophic failure you know was caused by the one seemingly insignificant corner you cut or questionable quality part you bought and you know you made that choice. Been there, done that makes a sick feeling in the pit of your stomach thinking about it.
Very nice shark you got there sir!
I thought my stinger was a serious money pit. After reading what's done on your shark, you just made me feel whole lot better.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 11:49 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by jackwabbit703
Very nice shark you got there sir!
I thought my stinger was a serious money pit. After reading what's done on your shark, you just made me feel whole lot better.
I should call it never done. It is on it's 3rd time totally disassembled. This time to the frame, 100%. We won't even go to the $ part. Should have been frame off, 100% the first time. There goes that sick feeling in the pit of my stomach again.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 08:17 AM
  #55  
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Update:
Loading up the truck this AM and taking it to my bud's place to get started. Probably going to clean up the block a bit before going to the machine shop later in the week.
Looking for input/instructions for the machine shop before it goes. Want to be sure I'm squared away on what to tell them.

Thanks all! Your input is valuable and appreciated
Carter
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 09:12 AM
  #56  
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Dropped off the block and rotating assy to machine shop yesterday. Guys there were real impressed with the parts selection. They asked about cam. Quoted specs to them.
Machinist said: "That gonna bark!" Should be about a week.
Deck at 9.013. Bore to stay at 4.125. Finish Hone, align hone if needed. Harm. Balancer checked/honed as needed. Rotating assy balanced. Block will need to be drilled for timing set oiling.
Moving along!!
Carter
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #57  
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Awesome! Balancing is a variable that can be controlled. I would weight match pistons with each other, rods (big end and small end) with each other then the assembled units with each other. get them as close as possible, then balance the crank. This is one of those variables that will smooth out a strong build especially at high rpm. Helps keep it together long term. Good parts are usually closer to weight matched than cheaper parts. Are you real comfortable with your shops expertice?
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 05:18 PM
  #58  
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It will need to be honed to specs if it's a shp block.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 08:02 AM
  #59  
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I am real confident in this machine shop's abilities. They are very familiar with SHP blocks and have been mentioned/recommended to me by several car guys/hot rodders around here (for whatever that's worth...). They were very impressed with this combo, and knew that the "homework" had been done on this.
So, two questions:
The Melling oil pump I ordered has an inlet of about 3/4" The oil pickup tube is approx. 5/8". I wasn't aware there were different sizes. I'll look around in a bit to see if I can figure out what I did wrong here. Some here may already know...

Do I need to replace my Distributor drive gear to a bronze gear? I have heard that some cams can't use the normal composition gear.
63mako, cuisinart, bluedawg: You guys have been huge on this, and I am listening!!

Thanks to ALL the posters!!
Carter
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:44 AM
  #60  
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Oil pumps come both sizes. Get the correct tube and stake it or tack weld it, make sure the tube, oil pump, pickup and pan are compatable. If you got the billet cam with pressed on iron gear I recommended your stock Dist gear will be fine. You will need a roller tipped, composite or bronze tipped fuel pump pushrod.
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