Advice on pulling my Big Block out.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Chandler AZ
St. Jude Contributor
Skunk I pulled the radiator and AC compressor as well as the support to make a difficult job easier and also reduce the risk of puncture or damage. Its a bit more work for sure for me but its done and I suppose was not 100% necessary.
aworks, thanks I think having swivel wheels makes the difference wrt being able to slide the engine forward as the car is up on stands. I am not sure if the one we will use has them......
Still looking for advice on where to separate the 454 from the trans. Looks like I have two choices. 1. at the bell housing to the engine or 2. at the trans to the bell housing. I prefer #2 since its only 4 bolts and they may be easier to get at? But what is your experience????
aworks, thanks I think having swivel wheels makes the difference wrt being able to slide the engine forward as the car is up on stands. I am not sure if the one we will use has them......
Still looking for advice on where to separate the 454 from the trans. Looks like I have two choices. 1. at the bell housing to the engine or 2. at the trans to the bell housing. I prefer #2 since its only 4 bolts and they may be easier to get at? But what is your experience????
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Chandler AZ
St. Jude Contributor
Skunk I pulled the radiator and AC compressor as well as the support to make a difficult job easier and also reduce the risk of puncture or damage. Its a bit more work for sure for me but its done and I suppose was not 100% necessary.
aworks, thanks I think having swivel wheels makes the difference wrt being able to slide the engine forward as the car is up on stands. I am not sure if the one we will use has them......
Still looking for advice on where to separate the 454 from the trans. Looks like I have two choices. 1. at the bell housing to the engine or 2. at the trans to the bell housing. I prefer #2 since its only 4 bolts and they may be easier to get at? But what is your experience????
aworks, thanks I think having swivel wheels makes the difference wrt being able to slide the engine forward as the car is up on stands. I am not sure if the one we will use has them......
Still looking for advice on where to separate the 454 from the trans. Looks like I have two choices. 1. at the bell housing to the engine or 2. at the trans to the bell housing. I prefer #2 since its only 4 bolts and they may be easier to get at? But what is your experience????
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 33
From: ct
If your going to leave the trans in the car just unbolt the bellhousing. Automatic or stick. If you leave the trans there is no need to remove the radiator support. Theres plenty of room to pull just the motor. Even with a BB I can do it myself. I never have help so I used to it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Chandler AZ
St. Jude Contributor
aworks I already pulled the radiator and support as well as the AC compressor so its really a mute point.
Your saying to separate at the motor from the bell housing. Not sure why but I am still looking to try and understand which is a better separation point and why. Whats easier to remove and whats easier to assemble and get correctly aligned on a manual m21 set up not using a lift?
Your saying to separate at the motor from the bell housing. Not sure why but I am still looking to try and understand which is a better separation point and why. Whats easier to remove and whats easier to assemble and get correctly aligned on a manual m21 set up not using a lift?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 33
From: ct
1. Remove the dist. Remove the through bolts from the motor mounts. Lift the motor just enough so you can remove the motor mounts from the block. I like to use a plate bolted to the carb flange for a lift point.
2. Lower the motor so it is just sitting on the crossmember. This will give you more room to remove the bellhousing bolts. Also remove the fuel pump and starter.
3. Put a floor jack under the trans.
4. Now lift motor and pull away from the bellhousing. You only need a few inchs and it will be free of the bellhousing. Sometimes it will take alittle effort the get free from the bellhousing.
5. Lift motor out and over the fender.
Install is just as simple. It is much easier to line up the bellhousing to the block than it is to have the bellhouing on the motor and trying to line up the whole thing with the trans.
This is a one person job. A second set of hands is nice but not needed. I don't have a lift at home so it's all done on the floor. I'v done this so many times it's just routine. I have a lift at my shop but I perfer to work at home by myself.
2. Lower the motor so it is just sitting on the crossmember. This will give you more room to remove the bellhousing bolts. Also remove the fuel pump and starter.
3. Put a floor jack under the trans.
4. Now lift motor and pull away from the bellhousing. You only need a few inchs and it will be free of the bellhousing. Sometimes it will take alittle effort the get free from the bellhousing.
5. Lift motor out and over the fender.
Install is just as simple. It is much easier to line up the bellhousing to the block than it is to have the bellhouing on the motor and trying to line up the whole thing with the trans.
This is a one person job. A second set of hands is nice but not needed. I don't have a lift at home so it's all done on the floor. I'v done this so many times it's just routine. I have a lift at my shop but I perfer to work at home by myself.
Last edited by aworks; Feb 25, 2013 at 05:28 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Chandler AZ
St. Jude Contributor
Thanks a works that's exactly the advice I was searching for! Two more follow up questions.
Question 1. When I start lifting the motor for motor mount removal and then setting the engine on the cross member for better top access to the bell housing mounting bolts won't I be putting some stress on the drive line? If so prior to any lifting do you loosen the transmission mounts to let the trans move a little or do you keep it fixed tight?
Question 2. If I separate at the bell housing as you recommend what do I need to do with the clutch and or shifter if anything?
Question 1. When I start lifting the motor for motor mount removal and then setting the engine on the cross member for better top access to the bell housing mounting bolts won't I be putting some stress on the drive line? If so prior to any lifting do you loosen the transmission mounts to let the trans move a little or do you keep it fixed tight?
Question 2. If I separate at the bell housing as you recommend what do I need to do with the clutch and or shifter if anything?
Last edited by 71LS5; Feb 25, 2013 at 09:29 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 33
From: ct
Thanks a works that's exactly the advice I was searching for! Two more follow up questions.
Question 1. When I start lifting the motor for motor mount removal and then setting the engine on the cross member for better top access to the bell housing mounting bolts won't I be putting some stress on the drive line? If so prior to any lifting do you loosen the transmission mounts to let the trans move a little or do you keep it fixed tight?
Question 2. If I separate at the bell housing as you recommend what do I need to do with the clutch and or shifter if anything?
Question 1. When I start lifting the motor for motor mount removal and then setting the engine on the cross member for better top access to the bell housing mounting bolts won't I be putting some stress on the drive line? If so prior to any lifting do you loosen the transmission mounts to let the trans move a little or do you keep it fixed tight?
Question 2. If I separate at the bell housing as you recommend what do I need to do with the clutch and or shifter if anything?
Good luck.
Brian G.
