Aloha's Gang,
Will be starting a roller cam swap & head gasket change soon and wanted to get all my procedures down before starting.Questions I have are as follows:
1) What if any pre-assembly lube do I need for the roller lifters,cam lobes.This is a billet core from Crane Cams # 119821
2) Will be using a Cloyes 9-221 timing cover with adjustable cam button.How can I adjust for correct cam play with the engine in the car?
3) Will degree cam,any benefits of installing cam advanced? or just install straight up per specs? I think this cam is ground 4deg advanced already..Any way to tell if that is the case?
4) Have a Crane distributor with adjustable collar.Tips on setting up the correct cam gear lash?
5) Will check for correct valve train geometry,lifter manufacture recommends 7.100 length pushrods with Edelbrock Aluminum Heads.Sounds about right??
6) Changing out head gasket to a Fel Pro 1094 .015 thickness to increase c/r and better quench.Any gasket sealer? Copper coat spray??
7) Sealer for new head bolts? Apply to all bolts??
8) Type oil and weight for use with roller cam?? Mobil 1 ok?
Thanks for the assistance ....

 

Aloha Brudah, sorry I can't answer not even one of your questions but am interested in see what answers you get.

 

1. I use the same moly based assembly lube as a flat tappet.
2. Snug button to 0 play then back off to .005 endplay. Can check with a dial indicator or a feeler guage anywhere you can with the intake off.
3. Install sraight up. Look at your cam card. You will have an ICL and an LSA. They are likely 4 apart. This is your ground in advance and most are 4 degrees.
4. http://www.precisionenginetech.com/t...upport-part-2/
5. Always check before ordering pushrods. Never trust anything other than actual, hands on checking with a pushrod checker.
6. I have used these numerous times dry install without issue.
7. You will get a variety of answers. I use this http://www.ebay.com/itm/PERMATEX-IND...e_Lots&vxp=mtr
8. OH OH! Amsoil Z-rod 10W-30 is hard to beat, I know it is a roller. I use Amsoil 10W-40 AMO in my roller 383

 

soak the lifters and rockers in oil also before installing them.

 

I used a Cloyes cover. You didn't say if you were using a timing chain set with a bearing or spacer between the block and gear. I had the Torrington bearing and it required machining off the timing cover button .060 or something like that. IMO the cloyes cover are a waste of money because the casting is so thick that it doesn't allow the use of high volume water pumps.

From the cam card you will see the .050 valve event numbers. When the Intake opens........................ your numbers are 0 34 E 48 -6 http://www.cranecams.com/68-71.pdf

now online look at an equivolent Comp Cams and look at the valve event numbers. Generally in the past Cran cams are not ground with any advance. CC are ground 4 degrees advance.


Only use sealer on bolts needing it. The TQ value needed changes with what is on the treads.

I have the Moroso tool to measure the needed dizzy height.

I would use higher zinc oil and probably around 10w-30

 

If your using ARP head studs you can seal the ones needed and install the nuts as per directions with their recommended lube. No worry on torque value as your torquing the nut not the stud into the block. I always run through about 3 times torqueing in the pattern. I go #45 then to #55 then to #65 then retorque after break in and a few heat cycles. Never a problem or leak at stud or gasket using this method. It seems they increased the torque spec to #80 on the last one I did for some reason but If I remember right it was always #65 with their lube.

 

Does the billet cam have a pressed on iron gear ?

 

are you still going to use the summit carb. that you had a thread about earlier?

 

Yes,the Crane Camshaft is a billet core with pressed on iron dist gear.I also plan on using the Howard's polymer fuel pump pushrod.Will be using ARP 12pt head bolts,torque to 65# or 80#lbs with the 1094 head gasket?
Timing set has a bronze thrust washer,cam gear looks to be machined for use with that thrust washer.What was the issue with the Cloyes cover?
Summit carb has been working great since install.EZ to tune,comes with a DVD explaining how to tune it.It's a nice running street carb & fuel mileage has also increased. Thanks...

 

I had a billet steel double row timing set and the button stuck out so far forward that the stupid cloyes adjustable stop turned all the way down (OUT) was holding the cover like over .040 out away from the engine block. so I had to machine off @ .060 off the cover stop rotating button for clearance and regain some adjustability. Once I got that all good and set the .05 gap and had the motor installed is when I found out that I couldn't put on the high volume Water pump.

So I had to take the cover back off and machine the front of the cover down for clearance.

That is when I got to talking to the race motor shop about my screwed up Cloyes operation and they told me that good timing sets don't need a button stop anyway. So I have never assembled an engine again with some phoney button stop.

Just think about it for a minute. If the double roller chain is so ridged that it is even hard to get the chain and gear on. Why would the cam ever come forward? another question which direction does the dizzy gear to cam gear cause thrust?

 

I just completed this...


1) What if any pre-assembly lube do I need for the roller lifters,cam lobes.This is a billet core from Crane Cams # 119821

I put lube on the lifter bodies, cam lobes and roller wheels. Also on dist gear and pushrod ends and fule pump pushrod. (You may need a different dist gear and fuel pump rod for your billet cam)
2) Will be using a Cloyes 9-221 timing cover with adjustable cam button.How can I adjust for correct cam play with the engine in the car?
What I did..assemble the cam and timing chain,with the cam button installed and the cam pushed forward as far as it will go. Put the timing cover on gently so that it keeps contact with the timing button. Remove the timing cover and put a dial indicator on the cam. Set ot at 0, then push the cam back into the block. Should be between .005 and .010. If not, adjust the cam button.

3) Will degree cam,any benefits of installing cam advanced? or just install straight up per specs? I think this cam is ground 4deg advanced already..Any way to tell if that is the case? No.

4) Have a Crane distributor with adjustable collar.Tips on setting up the correct cam gear lash? Cant help.
5) Will check for correct valve train geometry,lifter manufacture recommends 7.100 length pushrods with Edelbrock Aluminum Heads.Sounds about right??
I used .5 shorter and they were pretty close. You wont know for sure until you mock it up and measure. Too many variables like deck height, head gasket t hickness rocker arms etc..

6) Changing out head gasket to a Fel Pro 1094 .015 thickness to increase c/r and better quench.Any gasket sealer? Copper coat spray??
No. Just bare is fine as long as your deck is very smooth and clean.

7) Sealer for new head bolts? Apply to all bolts??
I used thread sealer on all of the head bolts. Only blind tapped holes dont require it.

8) Type oil and weight for use with roller cam?? Mobil 1 ok?
Any regular motor oil is fine. ALthough i used cam break in additive when i started up just for extra safety. But roller cams dont require it.

 

What heads? AFR specs the headbolts at 68 foot lbs.
Cloyes cover may interfere with your short waterpump. You may need a spacer or extra gaskets....and then your pulleys may be off....

 

When I installed a solid cam with the a dbl roller timing chain,I don't see how the cam moves forward or backward.Maybe if you use a crappy nylon timing set,then you'll need a cam button??However I did come across this article:http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...y/viewall.html
So I guess that the cam can walk forward and cause issue's.Hope that Cloyes cover doesn't cause any problems.Will post up progress when the swap starts in a week or so.

 

Edelbrock 70cc Performer heads.....Some used smaller button head bolts behind the water pump to gain extra clearance for the timing cover we'll see if that works.....

 

I had to replacve the bolts on the rear cover of the water pump on my 383 with button head allen bolts and grind a little off a couple to clear the Cloyes timing cover. That is hotrodding.

 

This article had to have a phoney stretched out chain to loose 12 degrees of timing. About the only good point was aligning the crank gear with a straight edge to the cam gear. Allot of motor building is paying attention to details

When You assemble the short block with the timing chain. I've put a large screw driver down a lifter bore and tried to pry on the side of a cam lobe to see how far the cam could move front and back. With a good timing set you can't hardly move the cam.

 

Kool!! Looking forward to get started..Waiting on a few more parts and it's a go.On checking the pushrod length,should I take the lifter apart and insert washers temporarily to simulate the lifter pumped up? Should I use enough washers in the lifter to equal about half the travel?
Never checked for pushrod length with a hyd lifter before.Covering all the bases before I open the engine up....Thanks

 

Do a search for PRL here or on the Chevelle Forum and you will get more information than you ever wanted. I am going through the same thing and feel like an expert now, even though I am still waiting for parts also.

Ralph