Matt,
Good tip re dished pistons - will file in my memory bank
I tried to PM you about "what" you are dealing with here !
Think about it the "who" and the "what" before you waste any more breath LOL

 

Throw it together cheap for now.
There are thousands of cam profiles available. Every post I have seen you put up recommends the XE262. This is pretty much across the board, no matter the compression, trans, gearing or intended use. I understand this is what you have and you like it but there are a lot of other options, driving styles, convertors, trans, gearing and intended use yet you seem very closed minded to anything else. There is another thread with a guy with an LT1 with close ratio 4 speed and 3.70. Your recomendation is...........XE262 and a 3.08 rear gear. Don't understand the lack of flexability.

 

Didn't realize Matt was on salary here : that he had to justify anything to anybody ?
He can recommend whatever he wants.

 

Yes he can. Just pointing out there are a lot of other choices and cams are not a one size fits all part.

 

When dealing with the range of intelligence it's probably best to limit choices.

 

I didn't dismiss your recommendations for the crank, I just didn't comment on them. I apologize if I offended you in some way but this thread started because I couldn't immediately figure how to read my cam card. How qualified do you think I am to build a 500 HP motor? Not even close. I thought because the 350 rotating assembly was getting expensive maybe I could get a 377ci engine for just a couple $$ more. Turns out that is not the case. I gotta know where to draw the line on this one and now I know. If I hadn't changed my plan midstream I wouldn't be here now. Ya I put myself in this position, not denying it. But I will learn from it.
I am grateful to all who have chimed in here to help me out. I appreciate Mako63's patience since obviously he spent a little time looking stuff up for me and put up with stupid questions by not calling me out on them. I seriously considered the rotating assembly he recommended, but ultimately it's not gonna work this time around. Gotta know my limits and my cars limits and 400hp or less would be it for now.
It was a good academic exercise for me and I learned much that can and will be applied when I do build the 383.

That's what is gonna happen. Thanks Matt.

Ya.... thanks. Obviously that wasn't well thought out. You know what your mother taught you. If you haven't got anything nice to say.......

That's some good outside the box thinking there Matt. Wish I was in a position to try that out. It would be interesting to see how it would work. Somewhere down the road I'll have to give it a shot.

Again thanks for the help for those of you who took the time to do so. I always like to hear from people who have "been there done that" since I haven't yet. Many varied opinions and recommendations, all were considered, weighed and factored in or out.

 

Seriously?????? Someone needs a nap.

 

mako doesn't even read my posts.
Twice i said Magnum 270S solid cam for the LT-1. XE262 is great too. I said i'd use the XE256 with that Target Master due to the low CR. And i like the LT-1 cam with 10.5-11:1 All missed by mako.
My expertise is making a 3.08-3.55 fun to drive. I'm all ears if mako has secret grinds hidden up his sleeve. I tried 4 cams with my 3.08 and only the XE262 spins the tires with half throttle. His weenie roller cams won't likely do that, but if they do, i'll add them to my list. According to Air Flow Research, in order to make more power than the 270H or XE262, and only +20 hp at that, they use the comp 12-432-8 XR282HR-10 230/236/110 And it has only 9" vacuum at 800, mine are 16-17".

 

No you didn't offend me in any way, that's why I put the " " at the end. I post from things that I have done, I don't read magazines or listen to bar room BS, or Google anything, 99% of what I posts where I give advice I have done and seen the results myself good or bad.

I have built a few engines 400HP or more with hyperutectic pistons. Good forged pistons are $6-700 and up and I would be leery about a set of ~$300 forged pistons.

The crank you want is the Scat 9000 series, the one you picked is not made of the same material and is classified as a stock replacement. Who knows if you are going to need mallory to balance either one until you take the whole rotating assembly to the machine shop. I have never needed it

 

Didnt miss any of what you posted and, yes, if it at all possible, I recommend a roller cam for many reasons. Have you ever tried one? The XE262 is a great street cam for high rear gear all I am saying is there are a lot of other options depending on many factors other than gearing. If I were to recommend a similar flat tappet I would likely go with the Lunati version. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1983&gid=287 especially with an automatic and/or better heads.

 

"Academic" exercise sums the whole thing up - expect to visit this again LOL
Always cracks me up : it is quite acceptable to be less than smart, just not acceptable to recognize it as such LOL

 

Ok so this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet
Got it, thanks.

 

mako
i was just on lunati's site yesterday. The main thing i need is SHORT seat to seat duration. measured at .006"
Link not working(my browser crappy)
i didn't see anything there with short seat timing, plus i don't want much if any extra exhaust. One cam i saw was 218/218/110 BUT was 284/284! That is awful sounding!
.
I have seen many good reports on the Isky mega 264, 214/214/108 Said to work well under 9:1
.
BUT, i'm not selling anything, so, i'm just giving tips on what little i have actually seen work. Plenty of cams for others to buy, I'm not motivated to try even more cams. 4 is enough on my 72. It is not lacking power anywhere, so no stroker needed, no roller needed, no high stall needed, no overdrive needed, no steep gear needed.

 

I used the xe262h and made 260 rwhp, its a good cam for a certain power level. After my first roller cam I'll never install or suggest a flat tappet cam shaft, not that I've ever wiped a lobe but for the amount more it costs it's definitely worth it. Even on a budget build its cheap insurance.

 

blue
BKBroiler says his XE262 runs the 1/4
12.17 at 109 mph. He is going roller soon! Anybody think it will skip right over 11's and turn a 10? A high 11 will be a total success! A roller cam is not like adding nitrous or a blower.

blue
care to tell us more about your secret cam? what the combo is, and your total cost?

 

I guess the thing that kind of threw me a curve ball here is the terminology. I would expect a stroker crank to be just that. Instead this crank is a stock throw with stock length rods for a 350.
Difference being it is of the 9000 series and in the notes it says it has "Features like Aero-wing counterweights, straight shot oil holes, and lightening holes in all rod throws (except for the 3.480 stroke) offer reduced windage and the ability to increase your horsepower."

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet

 

I decided to get it from the horses mouth and went ahead and called Scat enterprises. According to the rep I talked to this crank
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-910442
is made from the exact material as this crank.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-935010
Both are rated for the same HP. The difference is that the "stroker" crank has been lightened, profiled to reduce windage and has the straight shot oil holes. So still a better crank, especially as the RPMs go up, just not of different materials.

 

I wouldn't call it a secret. In the l48 it was the 262 with edelbrock heads 1.6 roller tip rockers on both intake and exhaust along with wieand action plus intake put out to be exact 256 rwhp & 297 rwft/lbs. Ran alright. Nothing extraordinary if I had went with better heads it probably would have ran alot better. I then built a shp 400 afr 195's rpm air gap and comp xe288hr. Probably went to big on the camshaft, but want to run it once in the 1/4 mile before changing it. My total cost was just at 10 grand probably won't get the chance to do it again. The roller cam seems less care free in the terms of break in and oil selection, I don't know much about ramp rates, but from what I've read are faster with a roller camshaft. The new engine comes uncorked at full throttle which is a blast to drive. This is only the third engine I've built and have only changed out a few more camshafts. Bk's change in roller camshaft should net him high11's. Vortecs are limited by max lift. With better heads alone he'd probably be in the high elevens 11's I'd think. Mako's been building engines for 40 plus years, motorhead's built several big cubic inch small blocks that produce big numbers and your an automotive engineer, so to a gear Head that dropped out of uti in the early nineties, threads like this are super informative and the three of you would better know what his car would turn with the roller cam shaft change. Whats your secret combo? Whats it put out and turn. What did it cost?

 

OK didn't know that, when I bought mine there was only one and stroker crank I was interested in and it was called Scat 9000, they made a big deal about it being stronger than cast OEM replacement cranks. Almost 10 years ago maybe I should start reading the magazines My apologies for the mixup

Edit:Today Friday, OK I remember know, when I bought mine it was a Scat 9000 stoker crank and at the time they said it was made from nodular iron or steel and therefore stronger than cast replacement cranks at that time again almost 10 years ago. It still held up to 550HP in my 406ci and there was a guy who had one in a Chevelle that was near 600hp and the cranks mine and his did not fail and were OK for short high rpm runs like the 1/4 mile. Where they ended up falling short was in circle track racing where the revs were high for extended periods of time.

 

Ok, i think reality is starting to take its course here. This post has some really good/entertaining reading and watching from a distance i can see a heated debate not only brings out the truth but shows those that are passonate about thier skills and knowlege - a good thing.


Just one idea i wanted to pass along for economy builds is the old school stroker method before cheap stroker cranks came along. The old school trick was to offset grind the stock crank just 0.010" to add 0.020" stroke (nodular cranks are pretty strong and beefy). Yes this leaves u with 3.50" stroke but also puts your c.r. in the correct range with the stock pistons. This not only adds a few cubes but puts the quench height just where u want it without decking the block (save $$$ there too). No i'm not going to crunch the new numbers for u as i can see u can handle that task now. I believe offset grinding cost is not much more than a regular grind to renew.

cardo0