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Mine took about 2 months to aquire the parts, some research, and installation. Since I sold my old 4 speed parts and bought a used T56, reused my old clutch/flywheel (only 1000 miles on it), my cost for the trans. swap and hydraulic clutch conversion was about $1200.
That may be another great option. And, I still have the clutch pedals and hydraulics out of my '98 Firebird I could use.
Actually, I plan to put the engine and trans in at the same time. But leaving the option for a blower or nitrous later, which means I don't have to make any changes to the drivetrain at all. I thought it was kinda smart.
A motor designed for boost won't run very well without it, and a motor designed to run well without boost won't last very long with it.
A motor designed for boost won't run very well without it, and a motor designed to run well without boost won't last very long with it.
Trust me, this is not my first rodeo. I know exactly how much boost I can run, with which cam, compression, forged internals, and what kind of gas.
If you run E85, and design the cam right (right a wider than usual LSA, and pay close attention to your overlap), and 10:1 compression, you could easily throw a roots charger on and run 6 lbs. What you really want to pay close attention to is your effective compression.
Last edited by htown81vette; Jan 2, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I put the TKO 500 in my '70 from Keisler 3 years ago. I was impressed with their customer service. Mine had a problem with leak at the rear seal. They worked with me to fix the problem and finally ended up replacing the entire drive shaft assembly all at no charge to me. They even paid shipping both ways. Good guys!
Trust me, this is not my first rodeo. I know exactly how much boost I can run, with which cam, compression, forged internals, and what kind of gas.
If you run E85, and design the cam right (right a wider than usual LSA, and pay close attention to your overlap), and 10:1 compression, you could easily throw a roots charger on and run 6 lbs. What you really want to pay close attention to is your effective compression.
Yeah, not my first either. 6 lbs. is hardly worth the effort.
Oh really? 6 lbs of boost on a 500 hp motor is worth 200 hp gain. That is $17.5/hp gain for just a bolt on. Still not worth the effort?
Not to me. If you build the engine for a blower from the beginning with lower compression, you can run 15 lbs. of boost and double the hp, for the same money.
Not to me. If you build the engine for a blower from the beginning with lower compression, you can run 15 lbs. of boost and double the hp, for the same money.
I understand that. But what I am getting at is if I start out with a 500 hp motor, and decide someday that its not enough power, then I can throw a roots on and get 200 more. Any more boost than that is pointless because my (hypothetic) drivetrain is only rated to 700 ft/lbs of torque. Sure, you can build a 1000 hp motor, so can I. But then you have to spend the money on your drivetrain to support it. And that adds up FAST.
Not to me. If you build the engine for a blower from the beginning with lower compression, you can run 15 lbs. of boost and double the hp, for the same money.
Also, a simple head change can get you 40 hp (this varies wildly, obviously), for this is a realistic gain for a nice set of AFR 195 cc heads. So, for $1600 bucks and 40 hp, that is about $40/hp. The blower change I described above is ALOT more bang for your buck. So your saying buy new heads is not worth the effort? That will be news for ALOT of people...
I understand that. But what I am getting at is if I start out with a 500 hp motor, and decide someday that its not enough power, then I can throw a roots on and get 200 more. Any more boost than that is pointless because my (hypothetic) drivetrain is only rated to 700 ft/lbs of torque. Sure, you can build a 1000 hp motor, so can I. But then you have to spend the money on your drivetrain to support it. And that adds up FAST.
Are you planning on doing anything with the aluminum rearend?
Also, a simple head change can get you 40 hp (this varies wildly, obviously), for this is a realistic gain for a nice set of AFR 195 cc heads. So, for $1600 bucks and 40 hp, that is about $40/hp. The blower change I described above is ALOT more bang for your buck. So your saying buy new heads is not worth the effort? That will be news for ALOT of people...
You said that 6 lbs of boost, which yields 200 hp is not worth the effort. That makes just about any other mod not worth the effort when your looking at it from a bang/buck perspective. Your having a hard time admitting you are wrong.
You said that 6 lbs of boost, which yields 200 hp is not worth the effort. That makes just about any other mod not worth the effort when your looking at it from a bang/buck perspective. Your having a hard time admitting you are wrong.
Did you not understand this:
Originally Posted by bashcraft
Not to me. If you build the engine for a blower from the beginning with lower compression, you can run 15 lbs. of boost and double the hp, for the same money.
I order the Keisler RS500 in June of 12. The delivery was about two weeks after the estimated date of mid September so no complaint. I'm converting from an automatic so I bought the entire kit with pedal assembly, clutch, etc. Changing the pedal assembly was tons of fun. The kit is very complete. Customer support has been excellent.