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I'm repairing a 1978 C3 with T&T which had many problems, one of them being engine cut off while the key in the run position. That has been previously fixed with a different ignition key and switch and some weird wiring.
But as I want to put everything back to normal, I'm wondering if someone ever heard about a loose connection between the ignition key and the ignition switch, and which part I may need to replace, or if the failure could come from the ignition switch itself ?
any idea ?
First make sure that you have the battery disconnected. Now, you should be able to remove the lower plastic panels from under the steering column and reach the rod that connects your ignition key/lock cylinder to the ignition switch mounted on top of the steering column jacket. There should be a very direct connection between rotating your ignition key back and forth and the rod moving up and down (inline) with the steering column.
If there is a lot of slop or the rod sometimes doesn't move when you rotate your key, then the problem is most likely inside the steering column head. (Broken rack, broken sector, ect).
I've adjust the ignition switch as mentioned in your paper. I was worried with the rod that bend a little while turning the ignition key, but so far, so good. The RUN position looks good with a multimeter.
Does anyone knows in which position the with-tan wire should be on the +12V on the ignition switch ?
to close this thread : my problem doesn't come from a loose ignition switch but from a loose key switch. When the key is in the run position, with the door open, sometimes I do have the buzzer, sometimes not.