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Let me first start by saying I'm am by no means an expert, but am trying to learn and do as much work on my "new" toy as possible. I have a 1980 and have always been interested in cars, but haven't had much opportunity to get under them and get dirty.
Now for my question. I am trying to change my front wheel bearings and my front spindles. Much of my suspension has been upgraded/replaced, but my spindles are badly worn and the wheel tilts in an out. My question is how do I get the wheel off? I read through the maintenance manual and it said to remove the brakes, see section 5. So that's what I did. In section 5 it didn't give me much of a break down. Basically, the brakes are good, but is there a way to remove them so I can get the wheel off, without having to fully break them down and remove the calipers?
Like I said, I'm new to this whole gig, but willing to learn and do it myself. I just need some advice so I don't tear anything up or make something unsafe. that's why I'd prefer to pull the brakes off, without disassembly.
you need some "friends". When i bought my 80 i did not know much either. I found a local car group and offered trade beer for knowledge. These guys can drink some beer!!! They have helped me through 2 motors and a new interior. I will be taking a look at my breaking system this spring. I am already saving up for the beer!!! Car guys love to help. it is winter and i am sure you can find a few that will give you a hand... where are you?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
You have to remove the caliper to remove the rotor. (Two 5/8 bolts)
Bearings are easy the spindle not so easy.
Are you sure the problem is bearings and not missing shims on the "A" arm?
Let me first start by saying I'm am by no means an expert, but am trying to learn and do as much work on my "new" toy as possible.
The first thing you need to do is not make assumptions about what might/might not be broken and neeeds to be 'fixed'. Spindles do not wear in a way that would cause the wheels to tilt in and out. Look elsewhere.
If you were to make a list of all the possible reasons for what you are describing, worn spindles would be a long way from the top. Worn ball joints would be my first guess. Worn control arm bushings would be #2. Good luck and don't be afraid to do your own work and learn as you go. We were all there once.
I live in Oxford MS and would gladly pay for knowledge in beer. I've only been here about 6 months and the club I know of is an hour up the road in Memphis, unfortunately.
I am not sure that the A arms aren't missing shims, how could I check this? As for checking worn ball joints and control arm bushings how could I perform that check? I know the bearings are worn pretty bad, so that's definitely on the list to replace. To help diagnose does it help knowing that it pulls hard (usually left or at least the road's slant) when I brake. Accelerating is fine, but braking almost ensures the car will pull.
I live in Oxford MS and would gladly pay for knowledge in beer. I've only been here about 6 months and the club I know of is an hour up the road in Memphis, unfortunately.
I am not sure that the A arms aren't missing shims, how could I check this? As for checking worn ball joints and control arm bushings how could I perform that check? I know the bearings are worn pretty bad, so that's definitely on the list to replace. To help diagnose does it help knowing that it pulls hard (usually left or at least the road's slant) when I brake. Accelerating is fine, but braking almost ensures the car will pull.
Also, the tie rods ends have been replaced.
Thanks
Ball joints are pretty easy especially if the wheel is as loose as you say. Jack up the car and have your buddy grab the tire and work it back and forth. You look around underneath and see what is moving. You should be able to see where the play is. Thats where the problem is. Then you can get back on this forum and figure out how to fix it.
If its control arm bushings it can be more difficult to track down because it takes a little more force to get them to move. If you can move the wheel, you can see where the play is. With control arm bushings you may have to use a crowbar to get them to show their play.
As for missing shims, what you are really looking for is loose nuts. The shims are used to align the front end and there will be different numbers of shims in all four corners. The problem is if some shims have fallen out and there is now slack between the control arms and the frame allowing for movement.
Thanks for the diagram that'll help. Did have it at an alignment shop and they wouldn't even try to align it because it was so loose.
I did have a guy doing some work on it while I was deployed. He'd restored an old Mustang (I know I know) but unfortunately he's 8 hours away and not a resident corvette expert. Anyway he told me he thought the bearings were out. Bubba had the car last and I don't doubt they weren't maintained. He replaced the rear and said there was little grease left so we extrapolated from that the front were bad as well.
No offence, but this sounds like the blind leading the blind. I'm sure there's an older mechanic somewhere in your area that knows basic mechanics on Americans cars from the 70s and 80s. There's no rocket science in Corvette front ends and only a little bit in the rear end. Just keep Bubba at bay.
Drwet and Pete, I've got the car up and the tire off. I can actually slide the wheel hub back and fourth and in and out without any movement in the front end. I'll get back up under there and check for the shims as well and see if there's other movement especially in the ball joints.
If the hub moves and the spindle that it turns on does not, then you definitely have a bearing problem. The next step is to remove the hub. Start by removing the caliper. It is held on by two bolts that go in from the back as I recall. (Haven't been under mycar for a while, but its pretty obvious which two bolts need to be removed.) Once you get the caliper off, I put a coupleof blocks of wood between the brake pads to keep them apart, and prevent a disaster in case someone accidentally steps on the brake pedal. Hang the caliper from the chassis with a piece of mechanics wire to prevent placing stress on the brake hose. Use a screwdrive to pry off the center cap covering the bearing. Remove the cotter pin and nut, and the hub will come off. Remove the inner seal, and bearings. Clean everything in solvent and inspect for damage. With the amount of play you have, the problem should be obvious by now. Good luck.
i have had a similar front wheel bearing go bad on a long highway run in my old '77 pontiac.the bearing started to make a grinding roar kind of noise, but took me another 50 miles or so home before being replaced.my hub went bad on my '92 la sabre and my '01 intrigue.in all of these cases there was very little play in the wheel assembly.i am missing something here in the troubleshooting analysis.
i have had a similar front wheel bearing go bad on a long highway run in my old '77 pontiac.the bearing started to make a grinding roar kind of noise, but took me another 50 miles or so home before being replaced.my hub went bad on my '92 la sabre and my '01 intrigue.in all of these cases there was very little play in the wheel assembly.i am missing something here in the troubleshooting analysis.
You're not missing anything. The amount of play the OP is talking about is extreme. Either the car was driven a lot of miles after it started making noise or somebody forgot to put the cotter pin in the spindle nut and it loosened.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by 8T_BlackBeauty
Thanks for the diagram that'll help. Did have it at an alignment shop and they wouldn't even try to align it because it was so loose.
What was to loose?
I can understand if the shop told you they can't do the rears because the shims are rusted together after 30 so years but what did they say was worn out in the front?
I agree with my 76 ray something is way out of wack.
How about posting a picture or a video?
Sorry for the delay...the honey-do list won out the last few days. Ill get on photo bucket and try to up load pics. The shifting wasn't as dramatic as I thought once I got the rotor off, but the spindle does have some groves in it.
Not sure why the shop wouldn't align it, I was out of the country and only got a second hand explaination. Just that they couldn't do an alignment because the wheels had too much play.
My offer for beer still stands if anyone knows some smart mechanics in my area. I'd love to learn from someone first hand in scene.