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Thanks, I have mounts with the T metal that limits how much it can lift. If I use a solid mount on the drivers side and rubber on the other side would I still have some reduction of engine vibration or would it all transmit through the solid mount?
When I installed my BB Hedmans Hedders I made sure to ding (flatten) the tube closest to the steering box. Shoot for about 1/4 inch gap. Lots of header installs require this.
When I installed my BB Hedmans Hedders I made sure to ding (flatten) the tube closest to the steering box. Shoot for about 1/4 inch gap. Lots of header installs require this.
That's the headers that have, I may have to do that I only have about a 1/8" gap there. On the right side headers they hit the inside of the frame rail and the collector is to far to the right I may send them back and have them send me another set.
Yes they are tight on the pass side too. I stuck a baseball bat inside the collector and bent them inward a little. Not easy!! Already had 'em Jet Coated...
Not sure if there are other brands to choose from...not a lot of space in there!!
That's the headers that have, I may have to do that I only have about a 1/8" gap there. On the right side headers they hit the inside of the frame rail and the collector is to far to the right I may send them back and have them send me another set.
I'm not sure what heads you have, but I bet you've got raised exhaust ports.
When I was running factory oval port heads my Hedmans fit perfect.
When I started using the AFRs with the .300" higher exhaust ports, I had to ding tubes for the steering box and the right frame rail.
I doubt you'll get away with no tube dinging if your running heads with a non-factory port location..
I'm not sure what heads you have, but I bet you've got raised exhaust ports.
When I was running factory oval port heads my Hedmans fit perfect.
When I started using the AFRs with the .300" higher exhaust ports, I had to ding tubes for the steering box and the right frame rail.
I doubt you'll get away with no tube dinging if your running heads with a non-factory port location..
Used to do it on a street strip Chevelle years ago by using a small piece of chain and a turn buckle. Ran it from a front head bolt hole to a hole in the frame. It still had the cushion of the rubber mount yet limited the torque of the engine from lifting away from the mount.
This brings back memories, In about '71 Chevy had a recall to modify all V-8 engine mounts back to I believe '65. The rubber used in the side mounts would deteriorate to the point of separation this allowed the engine to rise up on the left side during acceleration causing the accelerator to hang, to the point that the brakes sometimes would not be very effective. GM's fix::to install a cable from the engine to the frame to limit the travel. The next year all mounts used the "T" trap in the mount.
I installed countless "Kits" on those Chevys, effective, yes, "bubba engineering", yes, but cheap and effective.