I'm trying to remove the flexible coupling to replace it. I have all of the bolts removed from the coupling, and it is loose on the upper shaft. I removed the cover from the steering column inside, and removed the 2 bolts which attach the column to the dash. Problem is, I can't pull the steering column back more than maybe a 1/2" at the most. It seems to be hanging on something. I also removed the 2 bolts that attach the cover plate on each side of the firewall, but that didn't help. What am I missing here? The instructions don't mention anything else that needs to be removed. Help! :cry

Thanks,
Jeff Broughton

 

There is a lever on the lower end of the column. You need to disconnect the back-drive cable from the lever. The lower lever needs to be all the way "up" in order for it to slide through a slot in the dash.

 

Jim, is this the lever that is on the engine compartment side of the firewall? I saw that, and thought maybe it was what was holding me up. Looks like maybe there should be some linkage or something going to the transmission attached to it? Mine doesn't have anything attached to it (4 speed car with a Hurst shifter). It looks like the plate on each side of the firewall will need to be removed before that lever will go through the firewall?

Thanks for your help! I used your article from the FAQ last night to help me get started. What a great resource to have!

Jeff

 

That lever is the interlock. When hooked up, you should not be able to remove the key from the ignition switch unless the car is in reverse. It's a "safety" feature. Make sure you have those 12 point bolts removed...not just loose. They fit through a "flat" in the column, and you can't pull it apart to removed the rag joint unless the bolts are completely removed. Chuck

 

Good point Chuck, I had not taken into account about the pinch bolts passing through a notch on the gear input shaft as well as a notch on the steering column shaft.

Also, the lower column lever (right under the brake booster) can be disconnected from the transmission cable and wired in the "up" position. This will allow the steering column ignition lock to be turned all the way to off-lock and the column can be locked at any time. The back drive system was designed so that a manual transmission car had to be in "reverse" and an automatic trans car had to be in "park" before the ignition lock can be rotated all the way to off-lock.

One other thing, if the lever is not connected to the transmission and it is not in the full "up" position you will find that you can turn your car off but you will not be able to remove your ignition key from the column.

 

The 12 point bolts are completely removed, and the lever is not connected to the transmission in any way. So I assume now all I need to do is remove the metal plate on each side of the firewall, which should leave a hole big enough for the lever to fit through.

Thanks for the help, guys. And thanks for the tip about the position of the lever in relation to the key lock. This thing was apparently disabled by the prior owner when the Hurst shifter was installed. I've never had any problem getting the key out, but I'll definitely keep that in mind when I put it back together (assuming I get it back together!).

Jeff

 

When you remove the plate on the engine side of the dash, you will find that the shape of the cutout in the dash has a section specifically for the lower lever to pass through.

 

OK, that got it out. Thanks for the help, Jim! I'll probably be back in a couple of days with installation questions, once I get the new one. That brings up another question, though. About a year ago, when I first realized that this thing needed replacing (and before I discovered Corvette Forum), I had asked for advice on the NCRS board. Joe Lucia, who is very knowledgeable about part numbers, had posted the following info:

Re: '69 rag joint replacement
Joe Lucia <joelucia@home.com> -- Wednesday, 6 June 2001, at 3:24 p.m.

Jeff------

For 1969, there are two possible couplings which your car could require. Most 69s will use coupling GM
#7806391 which currently GM lists for $51.77. VERY late 69s, or 69s which have previously been fitted with
a replacement 70-82 GM SERVICE steering gear box, will require coupling GM #7818568 which currently
GM lists for $63.03.

You can tell which of these that you require by examining the worm shaft splined end after you remove the
existing coupling. The early style worm shaft will have a completely round, splined end. The later style will have
an unsplined flat spot for indexing purposes on the end. The two couplings are NOT interchangeable.


After looking at the shaft on mine (I assume he's talking about the shaft on the steering box, not the column), mine is completely round, with splines all the way around it. According to Joe, this would mean that I need part #7806391. However, your FAQ instructions only mention part #7818568. I'm certainly not trying to start any flame wars here, but I just want to make sure that I order the right part tomorrow. Are you familiar with the part # that Joe mentioned in his post?

Thanks again!
Jeff

 

Jeff, Joe used to post here too, but I guess he got tired of us :) He is a veritable encyclopedia of corvette knowledge and part #s and his willingness to share this info and his experience makes him an incredible resource. One more thing - I believe he is the original owner of a 69, so if the issue involves a 69 year nuance, and that's what it looks like, I would consider Joe's advice gospel (and I am a skeptic!). Jim Shea on the other hand, is our resident steering guru.... so you are getting real expert advice all around.... except from me!! :lol: MJ

 

Well you learn something new every day. When I did my research at Saginaw, I only found the one steering gear. It had a 3/4 diameter input shaft with serrations and a flat. But from what Joe Lucia said and the fact that your input shaft is a full round shaft with serrations, there must have been an earlier gear.

I just checked the 7806391 coupling and flange assembly and it is still available through GM. It lists for $56.70 and GMPartsDirect sells it for $32.32 plus shipping. I will update my steering gear and flexible coupling instruction and fact sheets.

 

Before you order your coupler, check your steering box! They used two different couplers in 69. (I know because I ordered the worn one the first time.) If your steering box has a flat spot on the shaft you need this one...
Zip pn - ZIP-SC-378

if not...
Zip pn ZIP-SC-377

It's really annoying when you order the worn part!!! :cuss :D

 

Well, mine definitely has the full round shaft with splines all the way around, so that's the one I will order. You guys have really been a great help!

As for GMPartsDirect, they are a great resource also, with great pricing (although their S&H charges eat up some of those savings). The frustrating part for me is that I only live about 15 minutes from them, and my wife goes within about 5 minutes of the dealership every day on her way to work. However, if I go to the dealership to purchase the same part in person, they demand full LIST price! Those great prices only apply if you order over the internet. What a bummer! :mad

Anyway, thanks again everybody for your help. I'll keep you posted on my progress!

Jeff

 

You could try Brasington Cadillac in FL they sell 15% over cost on current GM parts. I used them before and had very good service. http://www.gmotors.com I bought these rag joints from them last year and got then for the best price compared to anyone else.
Gary