Need HELP - Engine Troubles after oil pan removal
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
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From: Algonac Michigan
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Race Director
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From: Florida
Pull the pan and check the pump drive rod and a couple rod bearings.
when you prime the oil pump, you will notice quite a bit of drag on the drill when you get oil pressure.
Here are the instructions from GM for priming the base 290 replacement engines.
when you prime the oil pump, you will notice quite a bit of drag on the drill when you get oil pressure.
Here are the instructions from GM for priming the base 290 replacement engines.
The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime the engine, first remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the distributor before removal. Install the oil priming tool, GM part number 12368084. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the same orientation as it was removed.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
Wanted to give an update. Tonight I dropped the pan and on the surface everything looked fine. Took out the pump and noticed some crud in the pick-up. Gave it a tap on the floor and you would be amazed at what fell out. I am firmly convinced it was blocked. Bought a new pump and waiting for the pick-up to come in. Should of replaced the pump the first time....
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
Good find. BTW, a cordless drill will NOT provide the power necessary to pump oil up and through the engine. Just pull the center distributor wire off and crank the engine till oil pressure comes up. THEN, put the dizzy wire back in and fire it up.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
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From: King George VA
Wanted to give an update. Tonight I dropped the pan and on the surface everything looked fine. Took out the pump and noticed some crud in the pick-up. Gave it a tap on the floor and you would be amazed at what fell out. I am firmly convinced it was blocked. Bought a new pump and waiting for the pick-up to come in. Should of replaced the pump the first time....
I noticed you filled with AMSOIL which is what caught my eye. Modern synthetics have much better detergent properties than legacy conventional oils. Though in the 10 sec that the engine ran it is not likely the AMSOIL cleaned anything. However, there might have been sludge in the pan which was sucked into the pump.
In old engines that are upgraded to modern synthetics, AMSOIL advises a flush prior to first use using this or something similar to it:
AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush
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C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
Last edited by C66 Racing; Jan 19, 2013 at 09:07 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 15
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From: Fort Worth Texas
This is an original engine with 87K on it. I chose Amsoil SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil after reading a few threads about motor oils and older engines needing higher zinc levels that modern oils don't seem to have. If this oil is over kill, would love to know because its not cheap!
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
This is an original engine with 87K on it. I chose Amsoil SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil after reading a few threads about motor oils and older engines needing higher zinc levels that modern oils don't seem to have. If this oil is over kill, would love to know because its not cheap!
The other good choice for this type of application comes in a 10w30:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
With 87K its hard to say how much sludge is in the engine. If the oil was changed regularly, it shouldn't be excessive.
Good luck with the prime and if you need AMSOIL in the future, more than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
Wanted to give a quick update. I got the pick-up screen in this weekend, replaced the pump and put the oil pan back together. Primed the pump for about 3 minutes, put the distributor back in but was having trouble with spark plug wires crumbling due to age. So replaced the plug wires and cap. Took the center cable off the cap and turned the engine over. Oil pressure went up to 40 - 50 PSI.
Went to start it and its not firing. I thought I marked the distributors position when I took it out but apparently I don't have it in the original spot. Took an attempt at finding Top Dead Center by lining the timing mark on the crank pully to the 0 degree mark on the timing chain cover. Then used the location of the distributor as #1, and re-ordered the spark plugs. Still not luck so I ordered a piston stop and did a lot of reading. I still need to figure out if I was on the compression stroke and looks like I should of set it to 8 degrees before top dead center.
Went to start it and its not firing. I thought I marked the distributors position when I took it out but apparently I don't have it in the original spot. Took an attempt at finding Top Dead Center by lining the timing mark on the crank pully to the 0 degree mark on the timing chain cover. Then used the location of the distributor as #1, and re-ordered the spark plugs. Still not luck so I ordered a piston stop and did a lot of reading. I still need to figure out if I was on the compression stroke and looks like I should of set it to 8 degrees before top dead center.
