Well, my budget in USD is around 4000 which includes around 500 bucks worth of block and crankshaft overhaul but as I live in Europe, the prices of the parts are much different after they arrive here so I would say I have around 2500-2700 USD to spend on the parts in your terms.

I want to use the original L-48 block, drivetrain and the 4-speed transmission.

I already have: Edelbrock Performer RPM Q-Jet intake, Quadrajet 750 cfm rebuilt carb, original crankshaft which is going to be overhauled, GM HEI distributor (I am planning to install just a rev limiter for now but might upgrade later to new system), Hooker full length ceramic headers, also the factory pushrods.

I don't want to rev it much over 6000 since we don't get such good balancing options for these engines and I don't want to risk it.

Usage is mostly street although I might try it on a track with care taken. No competition goals.

Idle - I would love the choppy idle.

Vacuum - I'd like to stick to engine vacuum since the vacuum systems are factory ones on the Vette and I don't want to buy an electric vacuum pump at this point.

Girl proof - well, my girlfriend will drive it but she's a good driver and I'm sure she can handle it. She's very careful also. So the car doesn't have to be girl proof in terms of any girl being able to drive it...

HP goals - I'd be happy with 375-400 hp for now from the engine.

Weight has not been reduced so it's pretty much what the factory weight is. It will be lighter thanks to the aluminum heads.

The rear end should be the 3:36 or 3:37 what it was... But can somebody tell me what's your 4-speed RPM in 4th gear and speed of 55 mph? Mine's around 2500 rpm.

The exhaust is the Hooker headers, then x-pipe and straight pipes out from the sides. It's a custom setup. Firstly it's 3 in and goes smaller to 2.5 half way before x-pipe. I might try installing some glasspacks also if they fit under the body since there's very little room at this point.

Guys, I really appreciate all your efforts!

 

That RPM sounds right for the 336 gears. I remember mine being 2700 at 60 MPH.

 

Let me have a little time to do some research on a head for you then we can get to work. what are your plans for decking the block? options; if the deck is flat level and has a good surface we can go with a thin MLS head gasket. better but more expensive (big surprise) is to deck to put the piston .005 down and use a more reliable gasket. either will get you about .040 squeeze. Do you have access to a shop that can do this as well as balance the rotator? Hopefully some of the other guys will chime in, this should be a fun thread

update; Talked to the guy that did the porting development on the SHP200s
(http://wengines.com/index.html) He can do a set if 180s with basic porting for about 1300$ I started thinking about a inexpensive head for your kind of build, goal = good velocity good low lift flow. Considering how the chamber and bowl work came out on the SHP200s why not apply that to a 180? a detailed competition port job would not make sense because it would cost to much $$ and not concentrate on low lift flow (the area about 1" befor the valve and around the seat in the combustion chamber) What we came up with is a quality 180cc head with good flow where it is important on a mild build. I like the idea and think that you should consider it. The downside is about 350$ more but reliability and driveability will not degrade. I would like to have flow bench and Dyno numbers but we dont.

 

Thanks for the reply. I don't think the deck is flat level with the pistons, I don't know the exact measure yet what it was but I can check it out. They can deck the block in the workshop how much I want and also the surface will be grinded to be flat and clean.

The crankshaft balancing is something that nobody does here. That's why I don't want to build a motor going much more over 6000 RPM. They say here that the grinded crankshafts will be fine in that RPM range but 7000 and such revs will need special balancing in Finland or any other place.

 

I was trying to find out if you need to deck the block and if you have a shop availlabe that can. The best way to go is to deck the block down to set the piston about .002-.005 in the hole. This will allow a comp head gasket that compresses to about .037. yealding a .040 quench area. then we will choose the right piston shape and cyl head combo to get the static compression raito we like.

Re ballancing woud be a good thing, if it is cost prohibitive we can try to find a replacement piston that is close in weight and has a workable shape. with the 6000rpm limit a cast piston like the Keith Black hyper could work and save about 150$ that has to go through customs. we need the current piston weight.

 

Why not a roller cam? Get the most out of that motor you can.....

 

rollers solve a lot of problems and make more power. I am thinking hyd ft because we are tryin to do a head, piston, valve train 2-2500$

btw did I tell you I have a Hawaiian tribal name...they call me Howlley

 

Good One!! For the longest time when I was a kid I thought my first name was Fricken and my last name was Haole. I'm a half breed but pull toward the white side or haole side.Which means white person here in Hawaii.It is sometimes used in a racial sense.Just laugh about it and all is good....
Installing a roller cam and changing the head gaskets to the Felpro 1094 for better quench and higher compression.Hope to squeeze a few more ponies outta the ol L48.Had a flat tappet cam with EDM lifters,you can see the wear pattern on the cam,as well as the difference between the FT and the roller cam in the foreground..This is a billet Crane Cam 119821 mild lift and duration..FT cam was installed a year ago and ran fine..
[IMG][/IMG]

 

I appreciate all the replies. Some new ideas seem to be coming up step by step First of all, about the possible Dart heads porting work that can be done by Weingartner. If I could get the heads 1300 USD for pair, assembled and ported, it doesn't sound that bad. Now I am wondering if he's able to ship them here to Estonia for around 120-150 USD. If he can do that, I can consider it.

And about the roller cam... At first I was thinking of putting a hydraulic roller set. However, it just costs an extra fortune to have it retrofitted and so on. Just a quick glance to Summit I found that the Crane cam iokepakai suggested was around 450 USD and it needs the extra lifters which began at 340 USD for a set. Plus there are some other components which need to be bought when building a roller retrofit, right? I need either a special timing chain cover or something else to hold the cam in place.

The thing is that I don't want to get absolutely crazy with this rebuild. I don't want to be building the engine the whole Summer, I want to drive it already I want something which I can nicely enjoy for a year or two and then I can modify it again and sell the old parts if I want.

 

The porting in the article would have been $450, total over $1350 Port size ended up 220 CC after porting. Yes, Flow picked up considerably but it should with a 10% increase in size and over .600 lift. The downside don't show on the dyno. A 220 head on a 383 with that radical of cam will be real soft on the bottom end and streetability will suffer. If the budget is the deciding factor go Dart 180. If you want better flow go AFR 180. If you plan on a future upgrade as you said go AFR 195, it won't cost much on the bottom end..

 

Stock 4 speed with stock 255/60/15 tires with 3.70 gears turns 2,860 RPM@ 60 MPH. My 4 speed with 3.70 gears and stock diameter tires turns 3,400=3,500 RPM @ 70 MPH assuming the tach and speedometer are accurate which I doubt.

 

Ive got a real nice set of Dart alum heads done up. I could sell them minus the shaft rockers for 1200. They have 200 mi on them but they are a little biggish for a 350/383 Youd need to use a small cam with a lot of lift. Maybe not the right head but an option
They are 62cc chamber still on the car
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...t-rockers.html

 

Thanks a lot for this information! Those are exactly my RPM's and I have the same size tires on I believe. It means I must have 3.7 rear end! I think this is good news and changes things. If that's true, you've made my day, buddy!

Thanks for the info! I was hoping that people would let me know if they have heads for sale also. Why not buy some good low use heads if I can get them at a good price.

What else would you give with them for that price, can you arrange the shipping by USPS to Estonia, Europe? And what my other buddies think of these heads?

 

The heads would be complete just as is minus the shaft rockers.
Youd need to pick up a set of pref. 7/16 studs to use regular rocker arms

Ill be honest....they are on the big side for a 350 they really dont come alive til higher rpm....and may be soft down low.

There is a fair deal on a set of 195 Comp Port AFRs in the C4 parts for sale section. Think that would work much better on your 350 honestly. (god now Ill never sell these)

I think your car wiht those heads would be quicker than with mine.

 

Thanks for that tip! Now I've sent that guy a PM Anyway, there is already someone interested on those AFRs it seems. If I have plans to go 383 in the future, do you think your heads would still be on the big side? Are they meant for a 400?

Since it's almost certain now my rear end is 3.7, perhaps they'd still give the perfect power? I'm not sure how much low end I need although ofcourse torque is important when just floating around the city.

 

I know someone else with a pair of 195 comp port heads for a little more than that other guy. Really...those would be a better choice for your 350/383 Dont compromise.
Stupid me I had to go to p1 today to see what size motor you had after i posted what I had for sale.

pming you his contact info

 

Thanks! I contacted him, too. You know here in Europe people would consider us crazy when we say a 5.7 or 6.2 litre engine is the small one

 

Alright. Things have settled out now more or less. I wasn't able to acquire any of the used ported AFRs or Darts. However, I was directed to a guy named Jim from Salt Lake City who is an expert on these engines and an AFR dealer. He is able to give me very good prices and help me with the international shipping so I think it's pretty much decided.

So here's an update of what's going to be built:

1) Original L-48 2-bolt block bored over 0.030 to make it 355 cid
2) Factory crankshaft re-ground
3) Factory pushrods
4) Possibly the Speed Pro forged pistons http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2256f30
5) SLP-8-7100CH10 - Sealed Power CH-Series Rod Bearings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-8-7100ch10
6) SLP-4663MA10 - Sealed Power MA Series Main Bearings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-4663ma10
7) MEL-M55HV - Melling High-Volume Oil Pumps http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m55hv
8) CLE-SH290S - Clevite Camshaft Bearings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-sh290s
9) CCA-2100 - COMP Cams Magnum Double Roller Timing Sets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-2100
10) AFR Eliminator Street Heads 180 cc http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_25
11) Camshaft (hyd flat tappet) - possibly the Comp Cams 270 Duration or 286 duration camshaft
12) Edelbrock Performer RPM Q-Jet Intake
13) Rebuilt Rochester Q-Jet 750 cfm + electric choke

This seems to take me near the first dyno test here with 355 cid engine and hydraulic flat tappet cam: http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.php

Should be 430 HP and 470 of torque. Seems like quite enough for me going up from a 230-240 hp or so.

All that will be hooked to the good old Warner T-10 transmission and factory 3.7 rear end. Hope those two bad boys won't give up! I will try to save them for the Summer so that I don't give them maximum stress. I can test them out in the end of the Summer so I can start buying new tranny and rear end over the next Winter...

What do you think of the combo? Jim is already saying I should perhaps still build a 383 if I'm already buying new pistons since I can use factory pushrods for now and just get a cast crankshaft. That should give me around 30 more horsepower.

 

If you can swing it go 383.

 

check the weight on that piston, some of thoes are stupid heavy, price is right though. keep in mind that if you dont reballance you want to stay close to the stock weight.

the AFR180 will work well with a single pattern cam like you have speced out. dont skimp on lifters. Crower makes a good +oiling lifter.

pushrods will need to be checked for correct geometry.

I like a little extra oil pump and rod clearances with a low rpm flat tappet cam. I dont see any threat of running out of oil in the pan with stock grip on the street and red line in the neighborhood of 6000rpm.