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Requesting Cam advice for my engine specs

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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #61  
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mr...make/chevrolet
All you parts listed with stock deck and the above gasket gets you .050 quench, 9.91 compression and with the 270 cam your DCR is 8.15 to 1. I wouldn't use a bigger cam. Good combo with a sub 6000 rpm bottom end.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #62  
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Mako how would the Isky 270 mega cam change it...should make a little more tq/hp than the Comp. Not a lot but heck why not look for it

OP youre in good hands with Jim he wont steer you wrong.
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 12:02 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Mako how would the Isky 270 mega cam change it...should make a little more tq/hp than the Comp. Not a lot but heck why not look for it

OP youre in good hands with Jim he wont steer you wrong.
It would bump DCR a hair, less lift, less duration @ .050, not as fast of ramp, Isky 108 LSA vs Comp 110 LSA. Comp probably makes more power. The heads would really like more lift. (Roller cam)
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #64  
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Alright, my friends... Sorry for being quiet for a while. I've been discussing things with Jim in private just to get things straight since it's very hard to make a final decision only on forum posts. People have so many different opinions, you know. I appreciate all the advice and I used a lot of it.

Now here's the deal. I'm still going to build a 383 Stroker. We found out that since I'm already buying new pistons and I need to re-grind the crankshaft anyway, the overall cost goes pointlessly close to getting a stroker kit. So I am ordering the following SCAT stroker kit from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-90455bi It contains the SCAT regular forged pistons (I didn't go for the Premium ones since I couldn't find any evidence of them being much better) and the kit is already balanced internally. I guess if I don't want to go much more than 6000-6500 RPM the internal balancing by SCAT should be good enough. Since here in Estonia there are almost no possibilities for V8 balancing, this was my best and most affordable way to go.

The heads are going to be the AFR 195cc Street Eliminators, AFR assembled. I am considering some used AFR heads with a lot better flow also but these are still under question.

We decided to go for the following COMP Cams hyd flat tappet kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-sk12-246-3 It's a 230/236 cam @0.050 and it goes up to .490 valve lift. I know the AFR's could take a lot more but I'll stick to this for now with the hyd flat tappet and if I want more power later I might convert to hyd roller in a couple of years. The particular Comp cam should still give around 460-470 hp and about the same torque as Jim said. That's certainly enough for me for now!

I'm going to get this balancer I think. I don't want to go much more expensive than this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-d-80002

Now since I'm building the engine on the 4-speed manual, I want to talk a bit about this also. I found out that fortunately the transmission is not the weak Saginaw but it's the Super T-10 in aluminum casing. I've read that people have taken all sorts of abuse out of this tranny but people have also broken it fairly easily when things go wrong. I cannot afford a new tranny this year although I might go for it next year. I guess I need to watch my driving style this Summer and since I'll stay on the street the wheels will hopefully spin before the tranny decides to give up.

I still cannot decide whether to get billet aluminum or billet steel flywheel. I want it to be lighter than the stock flywheel and I want it to be strong enough not to explode like a grenade. There have been interesting stories on this matter in the forums.

As for the clutch I'm thinking of this kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-30042 I know, I know... there are much better sets for this kind of power. However, I need to squeeze the expenses somewhere for this Summer since the project is already going much more expensive than I planned. The clutch should be OK for street use and if it goes bad by the end of the Summer I'll replace it next year.

Things are open regarding the scatter shield. I will certainly not keep the stock bellhousing since I would be asking for trouble doing that. I really don't want to order an expensive 400 dollar scattershield so I'm checking whether the local metal working companies are able to replicate something or I'll perhaps get a bellhousing blanket.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #65  
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Without the flow numbers one can not cam and engine properly. Case in point....I have done 2 BBC engines in the past 2 weeks for cam request. Same casting but both ported. One cam has an 8 degree split at .050" the other a 16 degree split. Who wants to leave 50HP on the table and smoother an engine 800 rpm before its potential.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #66  
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Plan will work but you have to order the 75 CC heads for about 10 to 1 compression. The 65 CC will be about 11 to 1 comp. The bigger stroke bumps up compression.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #67  
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The AFR heads responds to short duration and moderate lift. This will give the engine a very broad flat power band.

The 195 has a very high I/E ratio. Engines with these heads need single pattern to a very mild split of of 2 or 4 degrees depending on CID and rpm.

Rollers have more area under the curve therefore a shorter duration roller is equal to a much larger hyd flat tappet. Also in todays world the hyd roller is much more dependable than a flat tappet. It is easy for us in the states if something fails to get relatively quick turn around. Those of you in Europe and you being in one of the Baltic nations it can take weeks and freight is costly.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #68  
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Billet steel FW really can bring piece of mind
Blanket is better than nothing but a Scattershield is just cheap ins. Its your legs. Hated spending the money too but now glad I did when the tach swings up so fast you cant see it. Billet FWs rarely have issues on breakeage not like the old cast iron stuff. Doesnt mean a clutch couldnt come apart while idling away.
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