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I just took a ride down to Houston. It was early when I left so I had my headlights on. The headlights went off about 20 minutes into my drive. They stayed off for about 10 minutes and came back on. The headlight doors remained open the whole time. The lights came back on and I had no problems the rest of my trip. I just replaced my headlight switch prior to my trip. Any ideas on the cause of this?
Either a bad connection or an overly sensitive circuit breaker in the headlight switch. Where was the switch made?
It was a Lectric Limited switch purchased from Eckler's. I'm not sure where it was made. Supposedly it has a heavier circuit breaker in it according to the description.
I AGREE WITH THE BREAKER IN THE SWITCH, this is a known problem with all early cars and pickups, yes you can replace it with more China junk but I think the best way for a permanant fix is to add a relay in the light circiut, the relay will take the amps draw instead of the light switch. This is a very good fix for the brighter headlight bulbs that draw more amps like hologen "now old" and zeon bulbs.
Problem fixed.
I'm taking TOM B1's advice and putting some relays into the headlight circuit. I found plenty of information on this modification on the internet. Thanks for pinpointing the problem guys.
I had the same issue. My headlights would not work on very cold nights. Additionally they would go off all together with no explanation. I was really scratching my head going around testing all grounds for existence and good contact. Then after giving up and sweating cold weather driving for about a year, I ripped out my interior for a wiring over haul and discovered my dimmer switch plug was worn out and loose. New plug from another harness and the headlights never went off without me turning them off again.
Good luck.
I had the same issue. My headlights would not work on very cold nights. Additionally they would go off all together with no explanation. I was really scratching my head going around testing all grounds for existence and good contact. Then after giving up and sweating cold weather driving for about a year, I ripped out my interior for a wiring over haul and discovered my dimmer switch plug was worn out and loose. New plug from another harness and the headlights never went off without me turning them off again.
Good luck.
I will check that prior to adding the relays. That would be an easy fix. Just another trip under the dash...again.
Even with a relay in the headlight circuit, you still need a circuit breaker or fuse to protect the wiring. Using a fuse in the headlight circuit is NOT a good idea, so you still need a breaker.
Pete
Even with a relay in the headlight circuit, you still need a circuit breaker or fuse to protect the wiring. Using a fuse in the headlight circuit is NOT a good idea, so you still need a breaker.
Pete
I'll be using short sections of fusible link wiring on the battery supply side of the relays.
I'll be using short sections of fusible link wiring on the battery supply side of the relays.
The problem with using a fusible link is that it's a one shot deal, when its burnt out you're in the dark. An automatic circuit breaker would be a better option.
This thread has been interesting. I will say that I've not had any issues with the lamp switch breaker so I've never really seen a need to run a relay or fuse link. As I posted earlier, it is possible to get a bad switch from a good supplier and I think this may be the issue you have.