Alright, my interior lights do not work and my radio has a ground problem (which I fixed today) and a couple of other little things do not work. Well i think figured it out. There is a large purple wire, it is actualy 2 wires put together, hanging right above my fuse box on my vette (1970). The two ends are twisted together, with the ends exposed, and look like they should hook up to the fuse box, but i do not know where they hook up? Any ideas about these large purple wires. :confused: :confused: :cheers:

 

The purple wire I have somewhere in there is from the neutral safety switch(keeps the car from starting in drive). I have a later model though.

 

The two large purple wires are the starter interconnect safety circuit...
in other words, leave them connected....one is purple the other is probably purple/white.....that is either side of the 'neutral safety switch/....

GENE

 

they are already hanging there and are twisted togethe , but where do they hook up to ? ignition or fuse box?? and anyone know where the gray wires on my gauge lights hook up to so i can get those working. I don't like getting on it at night because i don't know when the thing is red lineing, running hot, or if i am runnig out of gass, not that the gass gauge works anyways.. haha :lol: :cheers:

 

they went on for a second yesterday when i hooked up a wire that goes to the engine temp gauge, why would that help.... anyone have a wire diagram thay can send me

 

I got the test light out today to check the fuses. There are three fuses that have no power to them on either side and puting a new fuse in did not help. So I thought that maybe they are not hooked up. I took the fuse box out and they seem to be connected correctly. I have not clue how to get power to them. The fuses are: at the middle of the botom, labeled INST-5A; Bottom right, labeled Gauges- 10A(probly the reason my gauge lights don't work); and one right above the gauge fuse labeled, DIR SIG- 25A. Anyone have any hints :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: If electrical problems were a person I would kill him.

 

Theres laminated wiring diagram to by.I bought mine from ZIP and its great..They are complete diagrams that show every cable on your car.. :cheers:

 

Cory, it's really hard to tell without being there, I try being clair-voyeaur-ant with electricals, but my memory fails some times....if you can get your car down to Jax O/Park...I can fix it....remote controll sometimes is hard....

it's not the purple wires though...that's the starter safety interlock switch...
only.....and nothing else....I wonder if it's possible you have a defective ignition switch...NOT the KEY lock thing...BUT the ELECTRICAL unit above the column where all the heavy connectors plug in....
it's a bitch to get to, on account of crooks/auto theives/etc....but you can drop the columb a bit with two 9/16 bolts and get to it, most times...sometimes you gotta loosen the firewall through bolt flanges to get to what you need...
wonder if that switch has 'slipped' or if it's burnt, easily found by brown burnt discolored nylon plastic, not factory white/cream color....
it's possible the fuse block is bad, but that's usually caused by corrosioin....
and is fairly evident by color of the brass and such....anything black in connector metal land is bad news....obvously....

GENE

 

where do i get a new switch if this one is fried... and could this be the cause of my gauge lights not working?

 

New switch, probably expensive, I know my steering couumn switch is not intended for a vette, but was easily adapted from a junkyard era compatible car...but not sure as to the specifics exactly....lousey referance, sure...;-)))
the dash lights are not depandant on ignition switch position...headlights are not either....
do NOT depend on the LOOK of a damn fuse for telling wether it's good or not..makes NO sense, but getting hot on one end of these high amp glass fuses will melt the internal solder off the end cap of the fuse and open the circuit...seen and proved that many times....it happens fairly quickly I presume or the plastic surround would be burnt also....
but it's a bad connection getting hot just the same....
so you need a voltmeter to prove the point...

GENE

 

Even if the fuse did burn up when i used the test light. I put new fuses in and the lights still did not work. How could i fix the problem of no power to that fuse in the first place because that is what i think the problem is???

 

Cory, thing is, if you never have power to the fuse, the only thing there that would normally cause that is the ignition electrical switch on top of the lower section of the steering columb, inside the car...sheielded by the mounting brackets, and hard to get to....even harder to bloody SEE, these cars have the dashboard area so messed up even MY car is hard to work on, and I rewired the damn thing last winter making it SO much easier overall, but a stock shark is a nitemare, so many brackets, bars, assorted bullsh it in the way...., dropping the steering columb by loosening the floor flange bolts, and the two 9/16 bolts on the mounting 'ears' just up top of the lower columb trim plate....the one that holds those silly 'service' switches for the vacuum systems....
I swear, mostly it's better to just pull out the damn driver's seat to work on these cars.....4 bolts and it's outtathere....
anyway, if you drop the steering columb lo enough, it may just allow getting to the switch, maybe....you will notice with great difficulty there is an adjustment to the switch, it may be even loose, not allowing the switch to slide into position for the circuit you need there....and in fact not be a bad switch afterall....
at this point it's helpful if you had a factory wiring diagram, I have one to my '72, but my scanner is sh it.....

GENE

GENE

 

Thank you and wish me good luck! Hey if anyone has a good scaner and a diagram or a site with one it would be the best thing to happen to me since i got my car!!!! :yesnod: :cheers: