Tachometer Removal
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Tachometer Removal
Yikes!! My tach neeedle just "broke off" yesterday!! So I'm trying to get the tach out to fix it. What a chore. I've removed the dash pad and got the speedo/tach bezel as far forward as I can. Not sure what part of the tach to remove. It's still a bitch to get to!! Do I remove the blue cone portion or just the tach face itself?? Any tips would be appreciated.
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Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
Hate to say it...but you really need to pull the dash all the way out onto the workbench....
After you have out you'll see the screws you need to remove....I can't really see doing it with the dash still half way in the car.....
It's a faily good chore....PITA.......
After you have out you'll see the screws you need to remove....I can't really see doing it with the dash still half way in the car.....
It's a faily good chore....PITA.......
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi k72,
You really have a choice.... you can either unscrew the cone from the dash pad or the tach housing from the cone.
You need to be very careful; the screws will be hard to reach, and things are quite fragile back there.
You can just see the upper left screw's head; the upper right is under the black wire harness strap, the third is under the solenoid bracket. You reach it through the round hole in the bracket.
I'd take the whole dash pad out.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
You really have a choice.... you can either unscrew the cone from the dash pad or the tach housing from the cone.
You need to be very careful; the screws will be hard to reach, and things are quite fragile back there.
You can just see the upper left screw's head; the upper right is under the black wire harness strap, the third is under the solenoid bracket. You reach it through the round hole in the bracket.
I'd take the whole dash pad out.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Kim72
Always remove the steering column for this and it's not really that hard. I have detailed instructions on my site that will walk you through it.
go to this link and click on supporting document.
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
Always remove the steering column for this and it's not really that hard. I have detailed instructions on my site that will walk you through it.
go to this link and click on supporting document.
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
With the steering column removed.. and the tach/speedo cables pulled outward you can sit in the seat and wire it up. Maybe I should have called it "made easier"... 
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Kim72
Always remove the steering column for this and it's not really that hard. I have detailed instructions on my site that will walk you through it.
go to this link and click on supporting document.
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
Always remove the steering column for this and it's not really that hard. I have detailed instructions on my site that will walk you through it.
go to this link and click on supporting document.
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
Ernie: a couple of questions
- do you just pry the indicator/pointer off the face? I figure this is so but it's quite delicate and I want to be sure.
- if I order a new one, do I have to worry about it matching the color of the speedo pointer? Any dye lot problems I have to worry about? Same flourescent orange?
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Ok... that's a lotta question.. lol... The tach needle pointer broke off the spindle right...
First question I'd be asking is why.. So.. in 50 words or less.. (I'm getting funny all of a sudden).. Tell me what it was doing before it broke?
First question I'd be asking is why.. So.. in 50 words or less.. (I'm getting funny all of a sudden).. Tell me what it was doing before it broke?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
The tach was working and still does. I was checking out a clicking noise from the tach, which I believe is the cable is just old and dirty, when before my eyes the large part of the needle just broke off and fell to the bottom. The tach remained working. It looks like the metal just was fatiged (sp?) and broke. The rest of the tach looks great. A new cable will be on my order. Here's a photo of tach as I removed it.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
On the back of the head... you'll see a bushing and then a brass retainer that is crimped over the first worm (where the cable goes). See how much play is there.. Bot end play and lateral..
The clicking your hearing most likely is the first worm hitting the speed cup.. has the needle been shaking any at all.. I'd hate to see you put it back together and then have an issue.
In the picture below you'll see the parts I've talked about above. You'll see the first worm bushing (not pressed in the head) and if you look at the bottom picture you'll see the small brass crimp collar I'm talking about.
You'll need needle paint but I can't ship that to Canada.. (regulations prevent it) but you can purchase a paint that is close at a hobby shop. I don't have the name or number here but I at my office. It will be pretty close to the original color.
To remove the old needle.. you want to turn it counter clock wise while pulling outward. The needle is a press fit design. (this is only for the 1968-1974 tach's.. 75-82 electronic tach needles remove differently (fork).
The clicking your hearing most likely is the first worm hitting the speed cup.. has the needle been shaking any at all.. I'd hate to see you put it back together and then have an issue.
In the picture below you'll see the parts I've talked about above. You'll see the first worm bushing (not pressed in the head) and if you look at the bottom picture you'll see the small brass crimp collar I'm talking about.
You'll need needle paint but I can't ship that to Canada.. (regulations prevent it) but you can purchase a paint that is close at a hobby shop. I don't have the name or number here but I at my office. It will be pretty close to the original color.
To remove the old needle.. you want to turn it counter clock wise while pulling outward. The needle is a press fit design. (this is only for the 1968-1974 tach's.. 75-82 electronic tach needles remove differently (fork).
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
As you can see I took the tach apart (pretty easy) and all looks/feels nice and tight in all respects. It all spins freely. Needle was easy to remove as you noted. Needle seemed pretty steady when it was working. I'm not worried about the tach as a whole. My cable, on the other hand, looks like it's seen better days. I'll order a new one for sure. I'll be testing the whole thing before I put it all back in the car.
Does the new needle come in flourescent orange or do I need the paint? Shipping is not an issue as I ship to Blaine, WA.
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Does the new needle come in flourescent orange or do I need the paint? Shipping is not an issue as I ship to Blaine, WA.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The needle is in the correct orange... however, it probably won't match your other needle.. this stuff fades. I can't ship you that paint but I can get you very close. I'm sorry I went to take down the stuff you need to make them match today and got distracted. I'll get this for you in the AM.
When you re-set the needle you put it on the speed cup shaft at the 3500 rmp mark.. then you twist counter clock wise gently pushing inward as you turn it back to zero. You want to over-shoot it by tad and when you release it should be on zero... If it's not just do the removal trick again and try again..
Willcox
When you re-set the needle you put it on the speed cup shaft at the 3500 rmp mark.. then you twist counter clock wise gently pushing inward as you turn it back to zero. You want to over-shoot it by tad and when you release it should be on zero... If it's not just do the removal trick again and try again..
Willcox