Removing rear end diff crossmember
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 85
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From: California
Removing rear end diff crossmember
Have my rear suspension out and in progress.. figured I would remove the rear end and have it checked... I have the driveshafts all off... all ready to drop. I removed the 5/8 bolts from the crossmember at the rear. It won't budge. I tried a pry bar. No luck. Seems the rubber is stuck on there good. Haven't had any bad rusty bolt issues as this California car has been easy on me that way.Sooooo...any handy tricks?
Maybe I should leave it alone but everything is apart right now. What do I check for maintenance while I'm under there? The rear end was pretty dirty on the entire right side so it would be nice to make sure I'm good. How far should the side yolks move in/out? Is are c clips something that should be changed? Seals?
Thanks
Maybe I should leave it alone but everything is apart right now. What do I check for maintenance while I'm under there? The rear end was pretty dirty on the entire right side so it would be nice to make sure I'm good. How far should the side yolks move in/out? Is are c clips something that should be changed? Seals?
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
I needed a crow bar and alot of Kroil penetrating oil to get mine down. If your not going to replace the bushing on the cross member leave it alone.
Sounds like you need to replace some seals on the rear end for sure. I would take it completely apart my self to check clutches and all. The side yokes should be less than .015 in and out movement. I would also drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the case while it is apart to allow draining the oil later.
Sounds like you need to replace some seals on the rear end for sure. I would take it completely apart my self to check clutches and all. The side yokes should be less than .015 in and out movement. I would also drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the case while it is apart to allow draining the oil later.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 21
From: Greenville Ohio
I just did this using a 3-jaw puller. A 2-jaw puller will make the job easier though. Just put some pressure on it, spray some PB Blaster, let it sit and it will pop off. Mine took a couple of minutes of constant pressure using the puller method.
Last edited by edk136; Feb 9, 2013 at 06:07 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 21
From: Greenville Ohio
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Here's some good tips
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...l-removal.html
I used two chisels but it seems lots of people have luck with the gear puller method
Mooser
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...l-removal.html
I used two chisels but it seems lots of people have luck with the gear puller method
Mooser
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: California
Figured it out
Ok...so one side popped off without too much nightmare using a pry bar. The right side though would not budge.
SOLUTION:
I used a bolt and a 3/4 nut. Cut the bolt down to where the bolt fit between the two pieces of steel I was prying. (right behind the bushing)
Then I simply held the bolt with a wrench and turned the nut with another wrench and it spread the parts far enough that I just had to put the pry bar ahead of the bushing and give it a little love and ....pop!
I didn't get a photo as I was doing it but here is one showing the bolt and where I placed it....hope it helps someone else
SOLUTION:
I used a bolt and a 3/4 nut. Cut the bolt down to where the bolt fit between the two pieces of steel I was prying. (right behind the bushing)
Then I simply held the bolt with a wrench and turned the nut with another wrench and it spread the parts far enough that I just had to put the pry bar ahead of the bushing and give it a little love and ....pop!
I didn't get a photo as I was doing it but here is one showing the bolt and where I placed it....hope it helps someone else
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