I embarked on this project after several years. Kept saying I was going to and in 2012, started pricing kits. Started with Howard's matched cam and lifters but there were the questions about what pushrods, timing set, spring kit, etc. January, 2013 came and I happened on a complete retro-roller kit from Comp Camps.

The parts list:

• Comp Cams K12-422-8 kit (as complete as they get)
• Comp Ultra Pro Magnum 1.52 rockers
• Summit Street/strip Harmonic Damper
• Replacement AutoZone Radiator (time to replace the replacement)
• MSD Distributor Cap/Rotor
• AC Spark plugs
• ARP fasteners (head, timing cover and valve covers)
• Going with my stock dizzy gear. Not modified.
• Comp CCA 4616 Steel-tip Fuel Pump rod for the cast-iron '-8' cam
• Fel-Pro Top-End Gasket set
• Mr Gasket Exhaust gaskets
• The heads were rebuilt by a local machine shop with the new k-kit parts, DART-spec guides and steel exhaust seats
• Cloyes 9-221 aluminum timing cover with integral cam button/plate. Mr. Gasket timing tab. REGRETTING THIS PURCHASE. I've wasted two (2) press-in timing cover crankshaft seals (warped). Wasted the one that came with my gasket set then bought two from Summit. Wasted the 2nd and then successfully pressed the other into the 1-piece Canton cover. Who would have thought pressing the timing cover seal in would be such a pain in the ***. Going with Canton and nylon button this build-up.
• Weiand Team G 9221 aluminum water pump. STILL TRYING TO DECIDE if I need this if I just clean up and paint the stock water pump to use with the stock style canton timing cover with the nylon button that came with the K-Kit. I guess I should have planned on wasting/not using some parts... can always use the exotic parts on the final build-up in 10 years.
• Water pump stud kit and spacer kit (for the Team G pump). If I don't use them this time, they go into the box for next time...

Tools:

• Comp Crank Gear/Damper Installer
• Cam Installer tool (Found I didn't really need this)
• Crank Gear Puller
• Damper Puller
• Valve spring compressor tool

The roller cam is in the block. Once the new crank gear and timing set is in, I'll ensure the Comp-spec push rods are correct and start the assembly.

I bought a set of 1 3/4" stainless headers for a future exhaust upgrade (a 'while I'm at it' purchase).

Once I have it all back together, will report on results.

 

One more tool you need:



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4795/overview/

This so you can set TDC correctly on the new damper.

 

So what are your plans for messuring push rods ted. Seems there are two different methods, one involes a plastic piece that you slide down over the rocker stud, and measure with an adjustable push rod, the second is to replace the valve spring with achecker spring, mark the tip of valve with a sharpie and tighten the rocker down untill it makes contact with both the valve and the rocker arm, usually you have to adjust the adjustable untill it hits both at the same time. Then you rotate the engine two revolutions. The tip of the roller rocker will leave a mark on the tip of the valve. If the pushrod is to long, the mark will be past center toward the exhaust. If its to short it will be toward the intake. Its idea to have it centerd on the valve tip and be narrow.

 

I bought the adjustable push-rod from Comp. I guess I need that plastic thing a ma' bob that I slide down over the rocker stud. And here I thought I could use the adjustable rod with my rocker arm. Leave it to me to not know all of the details of checking push rod length... just part-way there.

 

Will this help with setting TDC for when I drop the distributor into the block on #1 spark plug?

Can't I do this by watching #1 intake/exhaust rocker movement relative to the damper reaching TDC?

 

Just a "heads-up", Comp's "-8" cams are on cast cores. There is nothing wrong with these contrary to what many think/say. We use a high number of them, have some out in service around 10/15 years now.

You do not need any "special" dist gears AND you can use the stock fuel pump rod.

This is one of the nice features about the cast cores. We are WD for Comp!

The rockers and the lifters (853's) are an excellent choice.

If you're going with the 5/16" pushrods I would prefer the .105" wall, or at least a minimum of .080". Comp has these. Do NOT use the 7809's, and you MAY need special length ones anyway. I would do a length check for sure! Don't go by the catalog recommendations on this dimension, it's rarely correct!!

(Add) I realize this is a relatively mild cam, but all the components I've mentioned would better serve you!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I would not use the "986" springs, but the "987" instead. This a 370# rate as opposed to the 322# rate on the 986's! I would also definitely use the 1730 L/W steel retainers NOT any of the Chromemoly's (740's)!! This is important to get some "R's" from the unit and keep the lifters "planted"! This setup will take you to 7000+ if ever necessary! We dyno a bunch of these type builds!

 

This is what I plan to do:

 

You can, but not very accurately. If you set up your pointer with the heads off, you wouldn't need this toy. Also, never assume that the markings on the damper are close to correct.

 

Thanks for the info. The 986 springs suit my intentions. This engine will never see over 5.5k rpm at my hands and will spend most of its time well under 4k rpm. I'll be sure to check the push rod length.

 

So, I don't need to install the composite distributor gear? I have the gear that came with the Accel distributor for my 'stock' flat tappet cam. Are you saying the gear on the '-8' (cast iron) cam is the same material as on my Crane Energizer 272-H10 cam (both are cast iron)?

This is really confusing as Comp says install the composite gear to live with the '-8' cam gear.

Do you have technical materials that support this recommendation?

 

I couldnt hear the guy, but if you use this method you need the checker springs so that you dont colapse the lifter spring while rotating the engine. This requires tools for removing the valve springs wile on the engine, but you need them none the less. If you settle for mediocracy on this part it will wear parts out quicker and in extreme cases snap thins like rocker studs or valve stems. Just asaying is all.

 

The guy said to just use the regular springs (even though in a few pictures, the checker springs are shown). He said he saw no benefit and it just introduced a lot more measurements to check. He used the regular spring with his aftermarket rocker and the adjustable length checker from Comp. Used erasable marker on the valve tip and turned it 8 full rotations to set the mark on the tip.

 

You need the TDC tool to find true zero on your damper. Without it you're just guessing where zero is and your ignition advance will be different from what you think it is.

 

Hi Ted, the info I gave you is 100% accurate, it is "documented" in Comp's master catalog with a couple "footnotes".

That bronzed-tipped fuel pump pushrod (4607, L/W tube & bronzed-tipped) is for steel blank cams (-9's) ONLY, it will not last on your cast core! It'll take the cam out.

You do have another option here (for the pump rod) with that cast core, and that is to use the Comp #4616, it is a lightweight piece with a steel insert. This we recommend. That should tell you a little about "compatibility". They want the steel insert against the cast cam on the pump lobe.

Comp makes the cam you have, the -8's, work with the factory pieces, they have the -9's (steel-core/conventional dist gear) that requires a 100% "bronze" dist gear, then they have the -9's with a dist gear "upgrade", this the "Everwear" dist gear "hobbed" on the rear with the steel cams. We don't feel this is a necessary option, at least for us. We use mostly the cast cores on the "retro-hyd-roller" platform. Every unit built here has the stock G.M. pieces included.

Good luck, I also don't own a "piston-stop", unnecessary in our position!

I believe the "composite" gear MAY be OK, but I have never used (installed) one. I also do not care for that "Everwear" upgrade option, but have used these! I have never lost a single bronze gear on any steel blank core. The Chev dist hsg's get modified for "direct-oiling " at the gear-mesh points. (This should be done regardless of your choice of components)

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Go back to my original post, we have numerous 100% "stock-appearing" retro-hyd builds in service for around 15 years now. Not one single complaint/issue. We do stock/sell those "composite" dist gears but haven't used a single one here!

 

For what it's worth,

When I first did it, I did it with out the checker springs, it was still in the middle third 500 miles later as it will leave a mark on the valve stem after you've ran it, but when you spend money, time and labor and you don't want it to wear out the valve guides or worse, which I couldn't confirm or deny if being in the middle 3rd would cause damage or not, some say it's fine others are super **** about it say that it must be dead center. I'm sure that someone with more experience will chime in, it only cost about 40 dollars more and 2 hours more time give or take, it couldn't hurt. When I was researching on how it was done I seen it done with and with out. from what I read, the wear or damage gets more pronounced with roller tip rockers as the contact area is a lot smaller or higher than stock ratio's on the rockers because of the leverage and angle. It apparently isn't as much of an issue with the stock rockers as the tip of the rocker has more surface area to contact to the valve tip with.

 

Thanks. I really appreciate the info. I'll use my stock distributor gear and will purchase the Comp 4616 fuel pump push rod.

 

What do you mean "the Chev dist high speed gears get modified for "direct-oiling " at the gear-mesh points"? I have no direct-oiling modification planned.

Have a question about the nylon cam button. I have pressed it into the cam gear from the back of the gear. I plan to use my OEM timing cover. Do I use the cam button in the gear as-is or do I have to clearance it? If so, how?

What about setup of the crank gear once I press it on? Do I have to set the crank gear clearance? If so, what clearance for stock SBC crank gear?

 

Are you not using a degree wheel to ensure you install the cam accurately?

What about a dial indicator to measure cam end play? Are you using a cam button? Is your timing chain cover reinforced for a button?

 

Hi Ted, you must set the end play with the button, regardless of your button choice. We use a dial indicator mounted at the rear of the cam to determine the fit. This is done during the "mock-up" period, when all clearances/measurements are checked.

I don't use the "nylon" pieces, find it easier with the roller buttons and some shim-stock. Have always done it this way on these.

I run these stock appearing deals without any cover "reinforcement", G.M.'s cover's are fairly rigid. Have had no issue so far with this setup.

Don't understand the last part of your question about the crank gear, this gets pressed on the crank till it stops?? If you're asking about the timing gear alignment, yes, we "fix" that also if needed, usually working with the cam gear up top.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Heres a shot of the dist mod, in order to "locate" the mesh point you must place the dist in as it will be installed then mark the hsg. Take a small there-cornered file and put a notch as pictured. Doesn't need to be that deep, maybe .030", just enough to "spray" down on the gears! (The dist in the photo has "O" ring grooves, G.M.'s stock dist's won't have these)

 

I am now officially out of my depth...

• cutting the distributor gear to oil the cam gear is beyond me
  
• I don't know how to use a dial indicator to set cam end play... is there an easier way?