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I'm looking at a 73 Vette that has a CE block and I'm trying to find info on how to decode it. The stamp shows CE 7P2756728 C G. Anyone got ideas? I recall researching that the first digit 7 may indicate the year as in 1977? The VIN shows a T for the 5th character so the original block should have been an L82 4 bolt main engine. The console shows 9.0 to 1 compression ratio.
Any help would be appreciated.
Beyond decoding the first digit, 7 for 1977, not much is known about CE engines. It may or may not have been installed in this car for warranty purposes at the time or may have come from some other car or truck more recently.
My "decoding" of that block is that it is NOT the one that came with the car from the factory. Since that is the case, the stampings on the block mean absolutely nothing. Treat (and price) that car as you would any other C3 which had the engine replaced.
Block, heads, manifolds, etc. will all have casting dates and numbers on them. Chasing a few of these might narrow the search and help identify the engine.
If there is any documentation that the engine was a warranty replacement, my understanding is that it could be considered as original. There would have to be supporting documentation.
Block, heads, manifolds, etc. will all have casting dates and numbers on them. Chasing a few of these might narrow the search and help identify the engine.
Probably not. Most CE engines were supplied as a short block.
Originally Posted by roadblock69
If there is any documentation that the engine was a warranty replacement, my understanding is that it could be considered as original. There would have to be supporting documentation.
Probably not. Most CE engines were supplied as a short block.
Huh? Who said that?
If you purchase an original low production car and the motor has an issue that requires GM to replace that engine under warranty, Keep the documentation. It will be judged as original but replaced. I have never heard anyone contest that! Keep the documentation from GM. That is the key! Many L-88s have CE blocks as well as early Z28s with the 302. If the replacement is documented it is as original. If that was not the case, owners would lawyer up and get a free car if the engine fails early! My Z06 had a door module replaced under warranty, I guess it is not original anymore.
Last edited by roadblock69; Feb 12, 2013 at 05:17 PM.
Reason: spelling error corrected
1) NCRS doesn't authenticate engines or stamp pads.
2) The judging standard is typical of factory production as delivered to the first owner.
Never heard of a car being delivered to the first owner with a replacement engine in it, never mind it being typical.
An engine with an incorrect stamp pad (for any reason) gets about the same minor deduction as as a burnt out taillamp or a non-functioning cigar lighter, so you'll have find someone else to blame for counterfeiting.
The warranties at that time was 50K or 5 years ...whatever came first to the original owner only...no third party contracts...As to considered original I have no information, But during those years numbers meant nothing and to get a new crate CE for nothing I can see why its or was better than original, The original had to be junk or the write up man a very good friend to be replaced...therefore a NEW engine would be ideal rather than a numbers whatever worn out junk engine......also perfect time to pay the difference for a upgrade....L88 maybe! .....
such a transaction in upgrades have been known to happen ...{L-88}......
/
Last edited by Ironcross; Feb 12, 2013 at 08:18 PM.
Most of the vehicle was 3 years/36,000 miles; some of the items were 12 months/ 1 year. The emissions stuff was 50,000 miles without time limitation as specified by the EPA, I believe.
Block, heads, manifolds, etc. will all have casting dates and numbers on them. Chasing a few of these might narrow the search and help identify the engine.
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Probably not. Most CE engines were supplied as a short block.
My experience with CE's is that all undamaged equipment (heads, manifolds, distributor, etc.) were transferred to the new shortblock. Checking casting dates and numbers could help make an educated guess that the CE block was a warranty replacement, or if it was picked out of another car. If it was a warranty replacement, odds are that the casting #s and dates will all line up (if those parts were not also replaced).
Now does this help the value? Absolutely not; it's still a NOM car.
If there is any documentation that the engine was a warranty replacement, my understanding is that it could be considered as original. There would have to be supporting documentation.
afraid i don't have the documentation but that was the story i got from the second owner when i purchased the car. he bought it as a barn find and the original owner blew a rod when the car was under warranty. he sold it because after he blew the engine he no longer liked driving it.
Hi all, I've got some additional detail on the engine numbers (btw, I bought the car, Woo Hoo!, back in the saddle again!). The engine stamp is actually CE 7P27567 which are deep and evenly spaced, then there's what looks like a manual stamp 028CFC with the leading character "0 "being stamped over the last character "7" of the factory(?) stamp. Also the casting number is 3959512 and the date code is H57. It's got the cast intake and Rochester 4Bl, what looks like stock exhaust, etc. Fairly clean original looking car.
3959512 was a 327 cu in black cast from '62 to '67, looks like yours was cast Aug 5th 1967. This means that the 7 following the CE is for 1967 and not 1977.
The 3959512 casting was mainly used for warranty/service, though it did have very limited production usage in 69 engines. It's a 4" bore block, so it could have been built as a 302, 327 or 350. The only way to tell would be to look at the crank flange.