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1977 Will Not Start

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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 07:27 PM
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Default 1977 Will Not Start

Hello,

my 1977 refuses to start. Had starting issues about 6 months ago after driving it for a while and then the starter just gave way. Replaced it with a new high torque power master and had no problems since.

Took it for a drive the other day, started fine, stopped for lunch and it never started again. So this is not a heat sink issue with the starter as it is currently cold and will still not start.

Some symptoms -

1. When I put the key into the ignition, all generator lights turn on etc, get the right voltage readings, as soon as I turn the key, I hear a click, and then all the gauges go dead for a while.

2. Checked the battery, it has a full charge.

3. Checked the grounding by hooking a jumper cable from the negative terminal of the battery to a solid ground on the frame - no luck.

Any thoughts on what the problem might be?

-D
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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How did you test the battery for a full charge? Try jumping it !
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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Battery or corroded bat terminals!!

Usually the pos terminal
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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@BPHORSEGUY - Jumped it, no luck. Also read a 12.59V across my voltmeter.

@mikem350 - brand new battery, one of those optima (burn a hole in your wallet) batteries! Terminals all clean.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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Check the +12V lead that plugs into the distributor cap next to the tach lead connector.
Also try disconnecting the tach filter from the distributor cap...just in case the filter has shorted out.

The click heard says that the solenoid is working so sounds like the ignition switch is probably ok.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Just tried that, doesn't seem to be any voltage reading on the +12 to the distributor cap. What could be the cause of that?
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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I have a 75 and had the same problem years ago. The grounds on a Corvette are very important. Even though you have tried a different way of ground it may not be enough. The following is a post I put in years ago.

I have a 75 that I have owned since 75 and I have experienced almost everthing that can go wrong. Here's what I want you to check. The negative battery cable goes from the battery through the bottom of the body and attaches to the frame. Where it attaches to the frame remove the cable bolt, any washers and the cable itself. Clean the frame where the cable attaches of any rust, dirt or grease. A wire brush will do this fine. Clean the cable end the same way. This is the important part. Reattach the battery cable in this sequence only. Next to frame use proper size star washer, next the cable, next regular washer and finally the bolt. Many people will leave off the washers when doing work in this area. The star washer is what gives you the strong connection to ground.

There is also a second ground cable in the front of the car. It is located on the passenger side of the car. It attaches on one end to the frame motor mount underneath and the other side attaches to the top of the starter L shaped brace. Both of these connections also need the star washer.
If you need additional help send me a PM and I will send you pics of what I am talking about or you can call me at home.
Good Luck
Steve
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Have you checked the alternator??? Sometimes they can work on an intermittent basis,(even if they test good, they can be bad, or on the way out) it's happened to me....
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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"1. When I put the key into the ignition, all generator lights turn on etc, get the right voltage readings, as soon as I turn the key, I hear a click, and then all the gauges go dead for a while."

sounds like the powers gettin to the starter fine, since the gauges go out. what does your voltmeter read when u hold the key in the crank position? do you have a multimeter? i prefer not to use the cars voltmeter for troubleshooting...i like to read battery voltage with the key out of the ignition, then see what it reads with the key in the crank position. another easy teast to confirm the powers gettin to the starter but not cranking the engine is to try it with the headlights on. if they go out when u try to crank the engine but come back on when u release the key the wiring is PROBABLY ok.

with the symptoms u have described so far id be tempted to jack up the car, make sure the wiring to the starter is all secure. if nothings loose pull the starter and bench test it.

also, how old is your battery?

hth
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:40 AM
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Check for poor connections on the starter. Particuarlly the ground located there to the frame. Make sure the connections are clean and tight.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve COSD
.
There is also a second ground cable in the front of the car. It is located on the passenger side of the car. It attaches on one end to the frame motor mount underneath and the other side attaches to the top of the starter L shaped brace. Both of these connections also need the star washer.
My money is on this one.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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Steve, followed your instructions, star washer and all. She started up just fine after Guess it was a bad ground connection. Thank you everyone for the help and tips.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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Gosh, thought I solved the problem, but still having problems.

Its not a heat soak or ground problem. It hasn't started in a couple of weeks and not sure where to look. Cables look fine, battery all good, not sure where to look!

Any ideas?
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:47 AM
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Ignition switch?
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