That's what worked when mine was stuck.
Door stuck closed, squeaky wheel
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Las Cruces NM
Door stuck closed, squeaky wheel
Two issues:
My passenger side door will no longer open. Both inside and outside handles were working, now neither will open it. I've had to use a long rod to open the door manually before, but it is not working this time. The rods on the handles are still connected, and make the door mechanism parts move. It just seems that the latch itself is almost stuck, it just wont release. Any ideas? I've tried having someone pull the handle all the way, and simultaneously tried lightly prying the latch up, but it seems to stay locked in position. Also, the lock still seems to function with the key, and I've made sure it's unlocked.
Second, I had a bearing go out on my driver side front wheel. I replaced the bearings (inner and outer) and rotor, even gave it new wheel studs while I was there. I did not replace the brake pads, they seems to be fine. Now my wheel is chirping relatively loudly each spin, the noise doesn't happen while I'm braking. If I jack it up and try to wiggle the wheel, there is no play. What would be causing the squeak?
Thank you in advance.
My passenger side door will no longer open. Both inside and outside handles were working, now neither will open it. I've had to use a long rod to open the door manually before, but it is not working this time. The rods on the handles are still connected, and make the door mechanism parts move. It just seems that the latch itself is almost stuck, it just wont release. Any ideas? I've tried having someone pull the handle all the way, and simultaneously tried lightly prying the latch up, but it seems to stay locked in position. Also, the lock still seems to function with the key, and I've made sure it's unlocked.
Second, I had a bearing go out on my driver side front wheel. I replaced the bearings (inner and outer) and rotor, even gave it new wheel studs while I was there. I did not replace the brake pads, they seems to be fine. Now my wheel is chirping relatively loudly each spin, the noise doesn't happen while I'm braking. If I jack it up and try to wiggle the wheel, there is no play. What would be causing the squeak?
Thank you in advance.
Last edited by Stooney; Feb 19, 2013 at 05:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Las Cruces NM
We originally used the old rotor when we replaced the bearings, and the wheel started squeaking then. We suspected the rotor may have become warped or something when the bearings went out, and had a new one laying around already and threw it on. I will go ahead and put new brake pads on it this weekend and see if helps. We are using the original hub though, could that cause squeaking? (The rotor and hub are 2 separate pieces)
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 366
Likes: 7
From: Mobile Al
You could take a long screwdriver and look for a square tab sticking out towards the interior on the door mechanism (I'm sure you'll see what I'm talking about if you look at a picture of it). Push down on that tab and the door should open but remember to keep pressure on it till it does. It wont open if you push and release it, at least mine wont.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Las Cruces NM
First off, squeaky wheel is fixed, was just brake pads :/ feel kinda dumb.
Secondly, I've tried pushing down on the tabs (separately and together) and the latch wont budge. I held them down for as long as 60 seconds and 'jiggled' the mechanism as best I could during it. The same method works fine on the drivers side, so I know I've got the right parts.
Here's a pic of the tabs I'm pushing, view is from the drop of the door looking in where the window is (window down):
Secondly, I've tried pushing down on the tabs (separately and together) and the latch wont budge. I held them down for as long as 60 seconds and 'jiggled' the mechanism as best I could during it. The same method works fine on the drivers side, so I know I've got the right parts.
Here's a pic of the tabs I'm pushing, view is from the drop of the door looking in where the window is (window down):
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 595
Likes: 9
I had the doors stick closed on my 68 after jacking the back up. Turns out it was the little plastic guide on the upper rear of the door somehow got wedged with the zinc plated steel guide on the door jamb. I got them open by heavy force, but be careful to not allow them to fly open when they go free (ask me how I know). I did all the latch tricks suggested here to no avail, and finally figured it out only recently after it happened again and I saw traces of black plastic from where it was shredding from making contact. Right now the plastic piece is off until I can get in there and trim it to fit right without jamming.
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