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Hello All.. We are looking to upgrade our 1975 engine (getting bored with our 165HP LOL). Looking around 300- 400 HP range. Can anyone tell me from experience which engine/engines may fit the clearance of the original hood? Thanks
I put in a GMPP 350HO, 330HP and no modifications needed to the hood. I also changed out the old engine fan for spal fans installed on an aluminum radiator from Dewitts. Night and day change to my 77.
Good luck with your choice and mods.
David
Thanks everyone. I guess you could say I LOL really want a new engine. I would feel alot safer driving it to and from work. So I will take everyones advice and look forward to a NEXT winter project... If anyone has any more suggestions I would greatly appreciate them
I put in a GMPP 350HO, 330HP and no modifications needed to the hood. I also changed out the old engine fan for spal fans installed on an aluminum radiator from Dewitts. Night and day change to my 77.
Good luck with your choice and mods.
David
What exhaust manifolds did you you with this engine if you dont mind me asking? I am looking at this same engine for my 1980.
In my experience, the things that leave me stranded are not the motor. I have never blown a motor but accessories fail, alternator, starter, water pump, fuel pump... These are things you will want to factor into the upgrade for reliability. A crate motor will have some of those but not all.
You also want to take in to account your transmission type and gearing and your rear end gear ratio. Set a goal for the car and make those three systems work together.
300hp with 3.08's and a th400 can still be a drag if the cam comes in too late.
For a daily driver, an overdrive transmission would change your life.
If I were shopping for a motor, I would ask for a dyno print out (if possible) of the motor and see if my drive line components would let me get in the power band reasonably on the street.
Last edited by johnt365; Feb 21, 2013 at 10:09 AM.
You have to figure out what kind of power are you after, to do so the best thing to do would be to drive, even as a passenger in different cars of that era with different engines (neighbors, car clubs etc) Full rebuild with the Edelbrock package would run pretty expensive and will not give the expected results. I have one, and even with 4.11 the car is slow on the street, sure it sounds fast but a 15 yo F body or a Civic Si will drive around me. I don't think its worth to invest 5k or whatever into the current engine if it will only sound fast. I would say go for a Crate stoker, with that said, go for a turn key, dynoed engine. and ask if the power is NET. New/ rebuild engine is a big investment so its better to toss 1k or 2k extra than to be disappointed.
Edelbrock power package is the easiest bang for the buck on a street driven car and they have a dyno chart to show where you'll be after the install
It all sounds good but they are not as advertised. Cams are to big. Head flow is short and they need more compression than an L48 will provide with a powerband higher than the stock internals and gearing will match up with. Poor choice unless you have a low mile L82 with a low gear.
In my experience, the things that leave me stranded are not the motor. I have never blown a motor but accessories fail, alternator, starter, water pump, fuel pump... These are things you will want to factor into the upgrade for reliability. A crate motor will have some of those but not all.
You also want to take in to account your transmission type and gearing and your rear end gear ratio. Set a goal for the car and make those three systems work together.
300hp with 3.08's and a th400 can still be a drag if the cam comes in too late.
For a daily driver, an overdrive transmission would change your life.
If I were shopping for a motor, I would ask for a dyno print out (if possible) of the motor and see if my drive line components would let me get in the power band reasonably on the street.
A 5 speed manual conversion, Headers, free flowing exhaust, a good tune and distributor recurve will totally change the car and likely will not have the need to swap engines until the more power bug bites you again. Then your all ready for a real upgrade. So many guys think a high HP engine is the answer and spend $5-10,000 only to be disappointed because the gearing is a total mismatch for the new engine. At this point many are no longer in a position to upgrade the rest of the driveline.
You all rock! Thank you so much for all your input. Right now we have some Excellent stainless Hooker Headers/Side mount exhausts and the car "sounds" awesome.. Now we want it to run awesome.. We have been looking at the Stoker dressed package, it looks good to me, but what do I know LOL. Yea I hear ya a manual conversion would kick *** too. Ajrothm- thanks for your info and by the way "nice car" my uncle has one exactly like it!!! 1971????? I will keep you all posted Thanks again... Stacey
consider a comp cam ex268h cam and a elderbrock rpm performer intake .consider some dart iron heads from competition products.I have seen sbc 383 short blocks for $1800+ shipping.
You all rock! Thank you so much for all your input. Right now we have some Excellent stainless Hooker Headers/Side mount exhausts and the car "sounds" awesome.. Now we want it to run awesome.. We have been looking at the Stoker dressed package, it looks good to me, but what do I know LOL. Yea I hear ya a manual conversion would kick *** too. Ajrothm- thanks for your info and by the way "nice car" my uncle has one exactly like it!!! 1971????? I will keep you all posted Thanks again... Stacey
Go with the strocker!!! manual would be nice but its no easy walk in the park, consider a manual valve body automatic so you can change gears by hand without all the heavy mods, like frame cross-member etc...