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Recommendation for high performance rear differential rebuild
Hi All,
Wondering if you can recommend what should be done to a 77 rear differential and driveline components to make it handle 600 to 700 ft/lbs of torque? I'm already planning on using Denny's 3 inch half shafts and spicer 1350 solid u-joints, but not too sure what should be done to the differential and other components to allow the entire driveline to handle the torque.
The trans will be a Keisler SS700 with the included driveshaft and clutch components.
Vette differential will be really taxed at that power range. Should do a SUPER10 bolt build or 12 Bolt if you can find the parts even with those parts you need to be careful with Vette differential.
It depends on how you plan on driving it. Big block cruiser with limited spirited driving or do you want to lite the tires up at 100 kph in 3rd? Either way you will have to change to 30 spline stub axles and 31 spline spindles. The question is how long will the carrier last. The stock 10 bolt carrier will not handle very many hard full throttle shifts before it snaps in half. The 12 bolt conversion costs twice as much but you won't break it. There's nothing wrong with the Denny's halfshafts but you are limiting yourself with the 1350 u-joints and flanges. The flanges can be upgraded and I doubt you will break the u-joints but you have to factor in rapid wear and replacement costs versus running the 1480 joints.
Mike
It depends on how you plan on driving it. Big block cruiser with limited spirited driving or do you want to lite the tires up at 100 kph in 3rd? Either way you will have to change to 30 spline stub axles and 31 spline spindles. The question is how long will the carrier last. The stock 10 bolt carrier will not handle very many hard full throttle shifts before it snaps in half. The 12 bolt conversion costs twice as much but you won't break it. There's nothing wrong with the Denny's halfshafts but you are limiting yourself with the 1350 u-joints and flanges. The flanges can be upgraded and I doubt you will break the u-joints but you have to factor in rapid wear and replacement costs versus running the 1480 joints.
Mike
Hello Mike, Thanks for your input here. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Just for my own knowledge what kind of torque will the stock 10 bolt carrier handle? Currently my engine is able to generate about 550 ft/lbs but I am thinking if I decide to add a 200 shot of NOS in the future then I would like to ensure the differential would handle the punishment. The car will mainly be driven on the street with occasional autocross or road race events. It will not be used for drag racing at the track and it will not be running drag slicks.
I will send you a PM for some pricing and options. I believe Stinger12 mentioned you are one of the best persons to contact about having a differential built.
Mike did my diff and I am very satisfied. I beat my car pretty hard so I took his advice by upgrading several parts so my little SBC cant'd out do the diff. Go with Mike.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Whatever else you do, your driveline will live much longer behind a 15# flywheel (SFI, of course). You may have to brush up your shifting skills a bit to keep up, but with 700 TQ's you just don't need a heavier one.
As for the diff itself, I've learned (more than once) that with serious power you don't have to be drag racing to break a stock 10-bolt. I went the 12-bolt IRS conversion route.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by SHAKERATTLEROLL
I have to agree to give Mike a call. GREAT GUY.
But even though this might be an odd question. With that much power that you wish to put down why go with a standard shift instead of an Automatic?
And Automatic would be so much easier on the drive train. And you can concentrate on steering the beast instead of Shifting lol.
Don't mean to flame you, but that doesn't hold true here, as the OP has stated AX & RR intentions. A good driver can much better utilize the trottle to control a car during hard cornering with the direct connection of a manual vs a slush-o-matic. Besides, one ought best already be in the correct gear well before it's time to begin transition back to throttle for corner exit anyway.
It depends on how you plan on driving it. Big block cruiser with limited spirited driving or do you want to lite the tires up at 100 kph in 3rd? Either way you will have to change to 30 spline stub axles and 31 spline spindles. The question is how long will the carrier last. The stock 10 bolt carrier will not handle very many hard full throttle shifts before it snaps in half. The 12 bolt conversion costs twice as much but you won't break it. There's nothing wrong with the Denny's halfshafts but you are limiting yourself with the 1350 u-joints and flanges. The flanges can be upgraded and I doubt you will break the u-joints but you have to factor in rapid wear and replacement costs versus running the 1480 joints.
Mike
hi Mike I would like to contact you about doing a rear for me, I tried pm but your box is full, any way to contact you? thanks Jim
Don't mean to flame you, but that doesn't hold true here, as the OP has stated AX & RR intentions. A good driver can much better utilize the trottle to control a car during hard cornering with the direct connection of a manual vs a slush-o-matic. Besides, one ought best already be in the correct gear well before it's time to begin transition back to throttle for corner exit anyway.
Yep, torque converter flashing can screw you up good coming out of a corner hard.
Don't mean to flame you, but that doesn't hold true here, as the OP has stated AX & RR intentions. A good driver can much better utilize the trottle to control a car during hard cornering with the direct connection of a manual vs a slush-o-matic. Besides, one ought best already be in the correct gear well before it's time to begin transition back to throttle for corner exit anyway.
Ok Fine you Dragged it out of me lol. I like Standards Better as well. But I have seen many that did not do well with a Standard and Powder.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by SHAKERATTLEROLL
Ok Fine you Dragged it out of me lol. I like Standards Better as well. But I have seen many that did not do well with a Standard and Powder.
Row Away.
I learned how to drive on a John Deere with three sticks and four pedals (not to mention the hydraulics), so I do tend to get bored pretty easily if there's no shifting to do.
The 12-bolt IRS conversion has eliminated the diff breakage issue for me, and the lighter flywheel has extended the life of everything else downstream of the crahkshaft.
I went with a Tom's 12 bolt 4.11, 3 1/2" Tom's halfshafts with Tom's 30 spline flanged stub axles and Tom's 31 spline flanged spindles. Cost me almost $9000 with the rebuilt offset trailing arms. Will handle 700 HP and a manual trans easy. Tom's don't build them anymore. Mike Dyer or Gary Ramadei with Tom's parts if you can get them. I know the inners and outers were on BO for a long time.
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