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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 04:08 PM
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Default Electric fuel pump

Has anyone installed an electric fuel pump, either with or without the removal of your mechanical pump? I have found out that my stock pump is not able to keep up with demand at WOT.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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I used an electric pump instead of the mechanical and on two different occasions the pump stopped working leaving me stranded. There are a couple high quality mechanical pumps that will give you plenty of fuel. Just my opinion but I am staying with the mechanical from now on.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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either type can leave you stranded, 30 years ago i had a holley blue pump on a corvette put 100k miles on it and drove it non stop D.C to Las Vegas and then back, without issue. and that was 30 years ago. I've had cars with mechanical pumps 150k miles and no failure. buy quality and i think you will be fine. the advantage to the mechanical is if the charging system gets weak you may be stuck
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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I'm wondering whether an electrical pump would eliminate my need to pump the gaspedal several times before each cold start? I have a starting procedure which includes three to four restarts and several pumps to get going when it's cold(er). Also I cannot just drive away when the cars is in high idle because of the choke: she needs to warm a bit our she will stall when I put the trans in gear.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:30 PM
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You must be making an awful lot of power if a mechanical pump can't supply your engine. L-88 Corvettes were only equipped with a mechanical pump. A popular rule of thum is that a stock mech pump can supply 500 hp.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
You must be making an awful lot of power if a mechanical pump can't supply your engine. L-88 Corvettes were only equipped with a mechanical pump. A popular rule of thum is that a stock mech pump can supply 500 hp.
I wish I was making a lot of power but sadly that is not the case I was told by someone who knows where of he speaks that is my issue and that it is common. Knowing the way it is acting/feeling I do believe it/him He did tell me to get a booster pump but I thought if I could just remove the mechanical then maybe it would free up a couple of ponies, oh well I guess I'll get a booster pump... Thanks guys

Last edited by AirborneSilva; Feb 27, 2013 at 07:59 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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Default Fuel pump

are you running a Q-jet?

Stock ignition?
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 04:47 AM
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Yes and MSD streetfire
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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You might want to just check your float level and needle valve for proper function ,and/or the filter in the carb. One of these could starve the engine for fuel as well.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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A stock pump will handle it. Thats all I use on my car. What about the gas filter? Either remove it (temporarily) or replace it. Also, if your gas tank has never been out, there is a sock on the pickup in the tank which could be 30 or 40 years old and seriously plugged. Also check the condition of your fuel lines near the pump. Do all this before you consider an electric pump.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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You have a carb issue more than likely float/needle & seat or a blockage to the filling of the bowl. A stock mechanical fuel pump will supply more fuel than a carb. can empty out even at WOT.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by worship79
I'm wondering whether an electrical pump would eliminate my need to pump the gaspedal several times before each cold start? I have a starting procedure which includes three to four restarts and several pumps to get going when it's cold(er). Also I cannot just drive away when the cars is in high idle because of the choke: she needs to warm a bit our she will stall when I put the trans in gear.
Nope. Still have to give a few pumps for the first start if it's been sitting a while. I don't have a choke on my Speed Demon 750 and I go through a few stalls when it's really cold, until warmed up. If I started it recently, it's fine and fires right up.

I run a high pressure fuel pump because I was going to install a TPI setup that I have, but changed my mind and went with a carb, so the regulator drops the pressure back down. Also, I have pre and post fuel filters.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
A stock pump will handle it. Thats all I use on my car. What about the gas filter? Either remove it (temporarily) or replace it. Also, if your gas tank has never been out, there is a sock on the pickup in the tank which could be 30 or 40 years old and seriously plugged. Also check the condition of your fuel lines near the pump. Do all this before you consider an electric pump.
Filters are all new, Lars just rebuilt my carb (about 1 1/2 month ago). yeah I'm thinking it could be the sock too
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
Filters are all new, Lars just rebuilt my carb (about 1 1/2 month ago). yeah I'm thinking it could be the sock too

Had the same problem with my 76, dropped the tank and took the sock out. reinstalled tank, no problems after that.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by scrappy76
Had the same problem with my 76, dropped the tank and took the sock out. reinstalled tank, no problems after that.
Cool deal, not looking forward to dropping the tank! I guess I can just change my send unit at the same time since my gauge likes to bounce... Thanks
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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stock replacement pump would not keep up on either of my 355's once they got up to ~385hp. Now have GMPP pump on my 72, works great.
And an elec on my 61. It has a prime button so it fills the carb when needed for easy starts. neither stall down to 38F no choke, but i do work the pedal as i back out. I get moving before the pump shot dries out(within 2 seconds) needs 1000-1200 rpm to pull out and not stall. This is with a 4 hole thick base gasket and a fully divided dual plane. With an open center gasket it needed to warm up at 2000-2500 for 2 minutes. WHAT a difference details make.

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Mar 1, 2013 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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Before tearing into the pump or carb I would get a fuel pressure gauge and see if you're loosing pressure at wot and then an air/fuel ratio gauge or sniffer will let you know if you're running lean. It's cheaper than throwing parts at it and gauges are always nice to have
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hugie82
Before tearing into the pump or carb I would get a fuel pressure gauge and see if you're loosing pressure at wot and then an air/fuel ratio gauge or sniffer will let you know if you're running lean. It's cheaper than throwing parts at it and gauges are always nice to have
Lars setup my carb w/AF gauge so I am positive that is not the issue, yes it could be my fuel pump. As for the throwing parts at it I agree but I need a new fuel sender anyway (which comes with a new sock), so that is not a waste of money.
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