1982 MY(Model Year) problems & possible solutions.
#201
Race Director
I take it you are putting on the larger bore throttle bodies...correct? IF SO...then.... NO....the ECM does not need any changes internally. The 'trick' will be is getting the balancing as close as possible due to you can not use a manometer on the larger bore throttle bodies...due to the ported vacuum port is now plugged off....or all that I have installed have been pulled off.
DUB
DUB
#203
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2011
Location: Harrison Ohio
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I take it you are putting on the larger bore throttle bodies...correct? IF SO...then.... NO....the ECM does not need any changes internally. The 'trick' will be is getting the balancing as close as possible due to you can not use a manometer on the larger bore throttle bodies...due to the ported vacuum port is now plugged off....or all that I have installed have been pulled off.
DUB
DUB
What if you bump up the injectors ecm mods required then?
I have another ecm from a 95 gmc truck 350 i think. If i were to switch to this ecm will the car be able to be driven while i save up funds for all the tuning stuff?
#204
Race Director
I believe that some people used a newer ECM...but I can not confirm this...and I have not done it. the processing speed may be faster with anew ECM...but how much faster does it really need to be to make a noticeable difference...versus all the time and money invested.
Going with bigger injectors ...to me...is kinda pointless.....because you are still dealing with 350 cubic inches of motor. Allowing more air in with the larger throttle bodies is fine...but slamming more fuel down the engines throat is another and this is where it can be tricky. It is a balancing act...or you may have smooth idle running issues due to loading up on fuel....but driving it down the street...it is fine.
Then you are still dealing with how good the motor is now in regards to compression and percentage of blow-by, etc.
DUB
Going with bigger injectors ...to me...is kinda pointless.....because you are still dealing with 350 cubic inches of motor. Allowing more air in with the larger throttle bodies is fine...but slamming more fuel down the engines throat is another and this is where it can be tricky. It is a balancing act...or you may have smooth idle running issues due to loading up on fuel....but driving it down the street...it is fine.
Then you are still dealing with how good the motor is now in regards to compression and percentage of blow-by, etc.
DUB
#205
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2011
Location: Harrison Ohio
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My thoughts as well, it is a zz4 long block so I know
It's better than original just at what cost.
Guess I just answered myself gosh I hate being cheap and broke...
UOTE=DUB;1587817569]I believe that some people used a newer ECM...but I can not confirm this...and I have not done it. the processing speed may be faster with anew ECM...but how much faster does it really need to be to make a noticeable difference...versus all the time and money invested.
Going with bigger injectors ...to me...is kinda pointless.....because you are still dealing with 350 cubic inches of motor. Allowing more air in with the larger throttle bodies is fine...but slamming more fuel down the engines throat is another and this is where it can be tricky. It is a balancing act...or you may have smooth idle running issues due to loading up on fuel....but driving it down the street...it is fine.
Then you are still dealing with how good the motor is now in regards to compression and percentage of blow-by, etc.
DUB[/QUOTE]
It's better than original just at what cost.
Guess I just answered myself gosh I hate being cheap and broke...
UOTE=DUB;1587817569]I believe that some people used a newer ECM...but I can not confirm this...and I have not done it. the processing speed may be faster with anew ECM...but how much faster does it really need to be to make a noticeable difference...versus all the time and money invested.
Going with bigger injectors ...to me...is kinda pointless.....because you are still dealing with 350 cubic inches of motor. Allowing more air in with the larger throttle bodies is fine...but slamming more fuel down the engines throat is another and this is where it can be tricky. It is a balancing act...or you may have smooth idle running issues due to loading up on fuel....but driving it down the street...it is fine.
Then you are still dealing with how good the motor is now in regards to compression and percentage of blow-by, etc.
DUB[/QUOTE]
#206
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It's hard to believe that we are at almost 21,000 views since March 2013.
Many thanks to all that view, and hopefully find the info posted helpful for the 82 CFI.
Don't forget if you have any suggestions or additions, just let me know.
Always trying to add the THREADS that pertain stricky to the 82 & 84 CFI, so that all CFI owners can benefit in one way or another. That particular SECTION has expanded the most. You may want to check that SECTION first before you do a SEARCH to possibly save some time.
It just seems that there are more 82 owners out there now than ever before, with the exception of the actual year 1982.
And that is a good thing....... Tom
Many thanks to all that view, and hopefully find the info posted helpful for the 82 CFI.
Don't forget if you have any suggestions or additions, just let me know.
Always trying to add the THREADS that pertain stricky to the 82 & 84 CFI, so that all CFI owners can benefit in one way or another. That particular SECTION has expanded the most. You may want to check that SECTION first before you do a SEARCH to possibly save some time.
It just seems that there are more 82 owners out there now than ever before, with the exception of the actual year 1982.
And that is a good thing....... Tom
#207
Finally got back to this again. Pulled the fuel pump and checked the dead-head pressure - 55psi. Pump appears to be working fine so will install it back in now. Checked the dead-head pressure at the inlet line to the front TB - same 55psi. So it appears I do not have any problems with supplying enough pressure to the TB's. Will now installed everything back and check the pressure between the TB's again. For some reason I cannot increase the pressure at the regulator to 13-14 psi to get the car to run smoother. I have changed the TB diaphram seals and everything appears to be correct there as well. Open to ideas on how to correct.
I do remember when I first got the car back running again a year or so ago after sitting for several years I changed the diaphram gaskets to new ones and had this similar type problem. Switched back to the original diaphram and I could adjust. Unfortunitly, that is not helping this time and one of them has come loose in the center now.
I do remember when I first got the car back running again a year or so ago after sitting for several years I changed the diaphram gaskets to new ones and had this similar type problem. Switched back to the original diaphram and I could adjust. Unfortunitly, that is not helping this time and one of them has come loose in the center now.
Did you get her running OK? Our 1982 CE would not idle, new fuel pump solved that..........
#208
Drifting
1. Rebuild the 2 injector towers. The kits are cheap and its not hard to do, some o-rings, gaskets and washers. If youre going to up the fuel pressure, must make sure the system can handle it.
2. from Dynamic Crossfire pick up 2 things: 1st is a curved tool that enables you to get under the injector tower and actually adjust the fp. However to do this, when you rebuild the towers you must pop the cap that covers adjustment fitting, no big deal. Also pick up their in-line fuel guage, it includes the properly bent tubing and fits between the towers, this way as you bump up the fp you can read exactly how hi you are bringing it, I have mine at 14. The kit even comes with a choice of color fittings, either red or blue anodized.
Complete detailed instructions with photos are available from Dynamic. Also changing out the fuel pump on C3s is a breeze, comes out right through the fill neck spot. Hope this helps.
#209
Burning Brakes
Just pulled this from the DCS website:
It's unfortunate, but it happens. Nothing is available on the site anymore. As an owner of a Renegade, I'll say go get one if you can, it makes a noticeable difference.
Featured News:
HOT News
COMPANY UPDATE...WELL, THE TIME HAS COME. DCS IS SHUTTING DOWN AND MAY NOT BE REOPENING AGAIN. THANKS TO ALL THAT MADE US A SUCCESS FOR THE LAST 7.5 YEARS.
NOTE: Just to let customers know, Eckler's and now Summit are still selling our manifold if you would still like to purchase one. These will remain available until we pull our tooling from the company. Get one while you can.
HOT News
COMPANY UPDATE...WELL, THE TIME HAS COME. DCS IS SHUTTING DOWN AND MAY NOT BE REOPENING AGAIN. THANKS TO ALL THAT MADE US A SUCCESS FOR THE LAST 7.5 YEARS.
NOTE: Just to let customers know, Eckler's and now Summit are still selling our manifold if you would still like to purchase one. These will remain available until we pull our tooling from the company. Get one while you can.
#210
Drifting
WOW! That sux, those guys were great, their products were top notch and their work excellent. Used them to re-bush my TBs also. I wonder if they have any stock left? Really wanted a renegade too.
#212
Burning Brakes
Ive tried to do a search but have come up empty. Im going to put headers on my 82 . Do i just need to buy the kit to weld the A.I.R. tubes to it and also weld a fitting for the O2 sensor .....any thing else that i need to know for this project ??
#213
Burning Brakes
A lot of people will run off the main AIR tube and drill a hole in the collector, and weld in a tube to connect the main AIR tube to, circumventing the small tubes in each header pipe altogether, this is what was suggested by my header manufacturer (Summit brand). If you have to have the AIR tubes as stock, Headman offers headers with the tubes installed in each tube, but they cost more. If you are having a hole drilled for an O2 anyway, why not just get both drilled and a tube welded in the collectors to run the main AIR tubes while you are at it? As long as it is before the O2 you should be fine. I left my O2 in the stock location and used a heated O2 with no issues, I deleted the AIR system, however.
#214
Burning Brakes
A lot of people will run off the main AIR tube and drill a hole in the collector, and weld in a tube to connect the main AIR tube to, circumventing the small tubes in each header pipe altogether, this is what was suggested by my header manufacturer (Summit brand). If you have to have the AIR tubes as stock, Headman offers headers with the tubes installed in each tube, but they cost more. If you are having a hole drilled for an O2 anyway, why not just get both drilled and a tube welded in the collectors to run the main AIR tubes while you are at it? As long as it is before the O2 you should be fine. I left my O2 in the stock location and used a heated O2 with no issues, I deleted the AIR system, however.
#215
Burning Brakes
I don't know the laws in your area, but if you are going with Hooker sidepipes, why not just eliminate the AIR system altogether? It won't throw codes or decrease performance, and you wouldn't have to worry about welding tubes of any kind into your headers, just one O2 sensor bung into the passenger side collector.
#216
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2011
Location: Harrison Ohio
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Throttle body boring
if i were to bore some spare bodies out can someone advise me as to what tolerance the bore will need to be for proper butterfly plate fit?
My plan at this point is to measure the current bores and plates and use the same relationship move up in size. I figured i would ask anyway just in case there is something i am missing.
My plan at this point is to measure the current bores and plates and use the same relationship move up in size. I figured i would ask anyway just in case there is something i am missing.
#217
Burning Brakes
Motorweek Review of 1982 Corvette! (rare)
I am just adding this to our `82 Sticky for posterity. It took some searching to find. Enjoy!
http://testdrivejunkie.com/1982-chev...te-test-drive/
Also, if you haven't already seen this walk-around by a master salesperson, you'll enjoy:
Dave
http://testdrivejunkie.com/1982-chev...te-test-drive/
Also, if you haven't already seen this walk-around by a master salesperson, you'll enjoy:
Dave
The following users liked this post:
H P Bushrod (10-29-2017)
#218
Thanks I enjoyed both videos. We've come very far when it comes to 1/4 mile times, they were happy with it running a 16 which for some reason surprised me a bit. I guess if a prior model was two secs slower then they should be happy.
#219
Burning Brakes
Headers on my 82 question
OK guys , tried searching here till my eyes got crossed .
I just picked up a set of Hooker Super Comp headers / sidepipes and will be putting them on my 82 . My question is where exactly do I need to / where do most people weld the bung / coupling for the O2 sensor ?
Thanks in advance ,
Brack
I just picked up a set of Hooker Super Comp headers / sidepipes and will be putting them on my 82 . My question is where exactly do I need to / where do most people weld the bung / coupling for the O2 sensor ?
Thanks in advance ,
Brack
#220
Advanced
Fuel Pressure adjustment tool
Does anyone know where I can get the curved tool or something similar that enables you to get under the injector tower and actually adjust the fuel pressure like the one Dynamic Crossfire Solutions used to sell?
I changed to the '85 fuel pump, changed the fuel filter and added a FP gauge between the TBs.
How do I get the new pump to run more than 2 seconds after I turn the key on - to get fuel back through the lines & to the TBs?
I changed to the '85 fuel pump, changed the fuel filter and added a FP gauge between the TBs.
How do I get the new pump to run more than 2 seconds after I turn the key on - to get fuel back through the lines & to the TBs?