I'm not into the missing hood look on a vette so I would vote for a angry scoop... this harwood looks almost too big: http://www.racingjunk.com/Drag-Racin...Goza-tray.html

 

See my profile. 10.4 to 1 AFR 195 competition ported, fully forged, Custom Roller cam, Custom large base tripower 150 NOS plate system, 527 HP NA, D&D Chevy/Viper close ratio T56 6 speed, Tom's 411 12 bolt, No 1/4 mile times it is a street car.

 

That is one hell of a street car! Very nice work!

 

Alright so here is what I found out today, It's a 383 that will be using an eagle competition rotating assembly, a set of 882 heads, air gap intake and holley 750 carb.

Not sure how good or what this will put me at power wise... Again this is going to ba a relatively free motor for me, so I will be happy either way, but that way i can figure out where my horse power is going to be compared to where I want it to be.

 

I was just checking on the 882 heads and not so good things I've found on them.... Guess I gotta try and concince the guy to swap those heads.....

 

If all you'll end-up with is a set of oem stock heads - be aware that even the least expensive aftermarket aluminum heads will put you "light years" ahead toward your HP goal.
If you will receive a good set of stock heads that are resale-able - that would be in your best interest. IMHO

 

That's what I'm thinking because I have been reading nothing but bad things about 882 heads(even Ported) So I know once I get this motor I will be changing out the heads... I'm not sure what cam is in it yet. I get bits and peices of information from this guy.

 

If he used 882's what did he use on the rest of the engine?

 

He used an Eagle competition rotating assembly,
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B120...oductId=752441

speed pro pistons
http://www.racersauction.com/printLo...ated%20Pistons

Not sure about cam yet,

Ported 882 heads

edelbrock air gap intake
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...FeZFMgodOW8Adg

holley 750 carb.

That is what he sent me that I know for sure.

 

Im not the biggest fan of eagle, but theres alot worse out there. Far better than cast. A set or afr 195 heads 76 cc chambers and a good hydraulic roller crank and youd be doing good. Go 64 cc chambers and a mean solid roller and youd be at the 400 rwhp mark.

 

Awesome thanks!

 

The links you posted are conflicting. Rotating kit including 6 inch rods and flat top pistons.......... and then Speed pro domed pistons for 5.7 rods

 

Not seeing any mention of the block being used ?

 

I copied the wrong link for the assy
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/1200...oductId=752441

Thanks for pointing that out.

 

That rotating assembly has 31CC dish pistons and comes balanced. Likely supercharger pistons for lots of boost. With your 76CC heads you have under 7 to 1 compression.

 

Personally I think it's borderline pointless talking HP figures, US dynos seem to spit out stupid numbers.

I'm sure you just want a quick vette? A genuine 400RWHP car is a very very fast car and not realistic for most of us unless you want to mod the entire drivetrain.

I suggest you'll get the fast car with a combination of trans and engine mods.

The trans will make the car quicker off the line and cruise nicer, 3 speed autos and 4 speed manuals are a thing of the past for a small block, they're gearing limited at both ends of the spectrum.

Forget HP goals and think 1/4 mile times, perhaps 13 dead is a good start? That's plenty fast.

Options -

I'd grab that 383 and see what you have, cast crank is ok to 6300, get some ARP rod bolts for the rods, hyper pistons are fine, take the bottom end to a shop with the cam and ALL of the stuff that attaches to the crank and get it lightened and balanced WELL. Cam equivalent to something like Edelbrock RPM but in roller version. get the Edelbrock RPM top end kit and fit this yourself once the short block is back, add a 750 vac sec carb, not double pumper and you'll have a great engine that is fast and won't kill your drivetrain or the bank.

For a trans ( I didn't see whether you're auto or manual) get a 700 or 200 or break a Camaro for the 5 speed ( depending on your axle ratio, try to keep 1st gear around 10, i.e 2.87 first gear x 3.55 rear = 10.1 in my car.

Hope this helps

 

Flatter the powerband the quicker the car will accelerate.

 

What do you mean by a flatter power band?

 

2 equal engines in all aspects, the one that rpm's the quickest will always be faster.

A broad flat powerband allows an engine to rpm very quickly. You want this as it will reach the shift point quicker and also recover quicker after the gear shift. A broad flat powerband will allow the engine to pull more more (lower numberically) which lets the car go faster.

Lets say a engine makes peak torque at 4200 rpm and it is 500#/ft. I cam the engine to achieve no less than 7% loss of peak torque 1000 rpm above and and 1000 rpm below peak. So for 2000 rpm the engine is no less than 465#/ft.

Next time you look at a dyno sheet and you get done with the peak numbers, look at the torque band and see how wide it is and run the numbers.

 

Oh ok, I understand now. Thanks. I hope this rig ends up lasting a little while til I can do it right and spend the $